TTA issues (DP, boost control)

[WHITE T]

Hey guys,

I installed an ATR DP, exhaust and wastegate on my dad's TTA. The exhaust fit great, but the DP has a bunch of clearance issues. I understand completly why, there is less than NO room, but it is hitting the headers and the lower a-arm. I have gotten away (slightly) from the lower a-arm mount, but it is still close (still up against the headers and seems really close to the x-over flange).

The issues I am having is that the car won't hold boost, basically it spikes, but is not consistent. One day it will stay around 14-15. The next day without changing anything (and similar temp conditions) it will fluctuate between 14-15 then creep to 18-19? It always creeps, but not as much all the time (even varies from each run).

Due to the DP hitting everything it is setting the knock sensor off like crazy. One time when you get into it, it will be fine. The next it will retard timing.

I plan to disconnect the knock sensor (with good gas and low boost) and make sure everything is ok. Besides that I am not sure what to do. I can take the ATR pipe off and try to "clearance it", but it seems like a lost cause. As for the boost control issues I have an Innovative boost controller that should bandaid the boost spikes, it is not a correct fix, but should work.

Anybody have any comments or thoughts? I just want to get this thing running OK so I can get back to working on my T!

Thanks
Rick

 

[postal]

Dont un hook the knock sensor. Doesnt the knock sensor feed into the esc? if you accidently unplug the esc you will go into max timing retard(did it on accident once) will unhooking the knock sensor do this also??? I dont know but it sure doesnt seam right. check the rotation of the pipe to try to find your clearance, or maybe manually clearnce it with a bfh.

AS fas as the boost creap goes... how big is the waste gate hole in the turbo. stock size hole for the stock size flapper valve is like .750". Now when you go to a nice free flowing dp you can start having boost creep issues. once again ive been there. you need to remove the turbo and die grind the waste gate hole in the exhaust housing. do a research on it but i believe you want to open it up to 1" or 1.125". this might kind of sound like a bs thing to have to do but its actually a testament to the fact that the new dp is actually doing what you payed the $$'s for "the exhaust side of the turbo is now breathing better" and now you need more waste gate flow to keep the boost down. A $8.00 1/2" diameter cross cut carbide bur with a radiused nose chucked up in a die grinder will do a nice job opening up the hole.
also do you have a after market turbo on the car? especially do you have a turbo with a PTE exhaust housing? If so they are different than the 3 bolt garrett housings and move the turbo a little bit. Since the dp bolts to the turbo it gets moved a little also. This is another been there done that deal that I went through. My dp on my GN was just fine until I went to a PTE housing then BAM the pipe was hitting so hard i couldnt even bolt it to the new turbo and had to modify my pipe. Its like a pool shot, if your off by just a little bit at the start you wind up off by a bunch just a few feet farther down.

HTH: Jason

 

[turbotaone]

I have a ATR DP on my TTA also and it had been crushed and dented in many places in order to clear the header and frame,but it would still hit quite often and set off the knock sensor. The solution to my problem was the installation of the Poly motor mounts. The Poly mounts raised and leveled the engine and now I have at least a 1/4"of clearance all the way around the DP. The mounts are expensive,but they will fix the DP clearance problem on a TTA. And yes,you can unplug your knock sensor(temporarily)to tune your car, I had to do it many times before I got the Poly mounts, just make sure that you run low boost and good gas while it is unplugged. The sensor is kind of hard to get to on a TTA, you just have to feel around blindly under the coilpack until you find it on top of the block. HTH

James

 

[WHITE T]

Hey Guys,

Thanks for the input!

 

[WHITE T]

Hey Guys,

Thanks for the input!

Oops! Sorry about that last one!

James, I considered the motor mounts also but was afraid to spend the money on the poly's and have them not fix the problem. Since you have run into it also, I think I might go that route!

We disconnected the knock sensor and sure enough everything seems A OK. I guess before I try to build a new pipe I will get the motor mounts!

Thanks
Rick

 

[turbotaone]

Hey Rick, just plan on setting aside a full day to install the Poly mounts. The installation isn't that hard,it's just time consuming taking everything off in order to get to the mounts(DP,starter,and crossover pipe),and it is definitely a two man job(one person under the hood and the other under the car),but in my opinion the Poly mounts are well worth the extra work and money.

James

 

[mrtransam3]

down pipe

I have the 3 inch dp from johns performance and it sounds like your ATR pipe is a tighter fit than mine. The only 2 place mine hits are the A- arm mount and the sub frame connector. I fixed the subframe hit by taking a 1 inch piece out af the pipe and the other spot it was hitting I put a ding in the pipe for a little clearance. I am ruuning stock motor mounts but I bought a tie down strap for the GN and adapted it to make it work on the TTA. That"s how i stopped my false knock.