Turbo exhaust copper gasket question

[Dhos1]

Installing my turbo with this new copper gasket that Bison sent. Is there a certain way this raised

lip on the gasket goes. Pretty simple ? I know just wanted to ensure that I got it right. It actually fits both ways.

 

[Turbo Keith]

I think the ridge goes up but not 100% sure . May PM Bison

 

[Dhos1]

Ttt

 

[TurboBuRick]

It don't matter what way its installed.

 

[Dhos1]

Perfect....thanks

 

[gund_tt]

According to the SCE website for part number 4172:

Kind of confusing because they show a header diagram for a turbo gasket. haha

I can see how the orientation may matter for a header gasket based on their diagram.

In your situation with the header and turbo exhaust housing being machined surfaces I really don’t think it matters.

If you look at their diagram and philosophy you could infer two things:

1. Based on the gas flow the ridge should go with the flow.

2. Based on clamping orientation ridge should be towards header.

Bottom line just put it in. Haha

Torque it and then retorque it after a few heat cycles as the copper is soft and will deform/match the mating surfaces.

And make sure to put a little bit of anti seize on the threads. Copper anti seize if possible.

Good luck buddy

 

[RUQWKNF]

I like to place the gasket so that the raised portion is facing up towards the turbine housing. This way the turbine housing flange will crush the raised lip when you install the turbo. I coat the gasket with a good bit of high temp copper rtv on both sides, not so much that oozes into the header and flakes off and hits the turbine wheel at mach 2, but enough to coat the gasket good. I use 3 new hardened automotive grade studs and 6 new nuts. Install the turbo, tighten down the 3 nuts first until the gasket is formed and rtv is oozing out. Then I install the 2nd set of nuts and tighten them down. I then let the rtv cure for 24 hours before cranking it and taking a test drive with boost. This is the double nut or jab nut method. Once I have about 15-20 miles on it, I shut it down and let it completely cool to the touch and re-tighten the nuts. If I know I'm going to be running extreme boost levels, I will check the nuts before I "pull the pin" and make a hit. Easy Peasy, no leaks.

-Patrick-

 

[Dhos1]

I like to place the gasket so that the raised portion is facing up towards the turbine housing. This way the turbine housing flange will crush the raised lip when you install the turbo. I coat the gasket with a good bit of high temp copper rtv on both sides, not so much that oozes into the header and flakes off and hits the turbine wheel at mach 2, but enough to coat the gasket good. I use 3 new hardened automotive grade studs and 6 new nuts. Install the turbo, tighten down the 3 nuts first until the gasket is formed and rtv is oozing out. Then I install the 2nd set of nuts and tighten them down. I then let the rtv cure for 24 hours before cranking it and taking a test drive with boost. This is the double nut or jab nut method. Once I have about 15-20 miles on it, I shut it down and let it completely cool to the touch and re-tighten the nuts. If I know I'm going to be running extreme boost levels, I will check the nuts before I "pull the pin" and make a hit. Easy Peasy, no leaks.

-Patrick-

Damn—nice write up and technique Patrick. I’ll definitely follow this