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S10xGN

RETIRED!
Joined
May 26, 2001
Messages
2,563
Hi All,

I just added a TurboTweak chip to my combo, and have a few Q's for ya'll with similar setups.

My chip is a 23°/21° and states for 23-25# boost. FP is 42.5# line-off, and IAC is 22. After installing it and marvelling over how terrific the idle and off-idle is, I went for a ride to "learn" the chip.

First thing I see is my old Alky and BsTC settings are NFG. Knock meter pegged the last red! So, Alky straight up (12 o'clock) and boost knob full left (14#), now it's OK. After a few 2nd gear pulls, I eased the boost knob to 12 o'clock (~18# boost). Still getting some knock, so I added some alky (knob ~ 2 o'clock). No knock so I up the boost to max (22#) and knock is back. Now both knobs are full on and I'm still seeing some knock (2nd green).

Thing is, I have dual WG solenoids, so my boost is way low - it acts like there is only one instead of two. I'll poke around and see if one died somehow.

My knock seems to manifest itself at low speeds and boost levels, like right off idle to ~ 3500 or so, then goes away. It never happened with the previous chip, so I don't think its mechanical noise.

Do you TurboTweak users ever play with the fueling and timing settings? I'm thinking of dropping out some timing to see if the knock goes away. Is anyone else having issues with too much timing?

I was seeing low BLM's and x-counts on turbolink, so if it's not raining on my next day off, I'll ride around with the wide-band hooked up.

Any ideas?

Thanks!
 
Have you played with the "turn on" and "initial" settings? The blue knob alone may not be enough if your "initial" is set too low.

Based on my somewhat limited alky tuning experience......

Since your problem is at lower boost pressures / engine speeds, you might look at turning the "turn on" point down a little and the "initial" up a little to get more alky flowing sooner.

Hopefully, Julio can chime in and offer some more expert guidance.
 
The factory preset inside the the PAC should get you close. So leave those alone.

Now you havent said what your O2's are doing when all of this is happening. That is a biggie. Your target is 780 for O2's top of third as a baseline.

Also low blm's are an issue, meaning the computer is pulling out fuel. You want to see 120's for your BLM at idle. Thats the starting point. Set your fuel pressure to obtain that number.

Next is when you roll into the throttle the motor has to feel silky smooth when the alky kicks in. Any hesitations and its probably dropping in too much fuel.

I bet your running a translator? You probably have to reset the controls.

Drop me a call... I bet its too much fuel cuasing surging which can induce knock.

Great to finally hear your playing with the truck.

;)
 
BLM's are definitely low, with Eric's chip they're 100 - 110, with the chip I had been running (Testa's) they were 125 - 132. Eric is thinking my injectors may be flowing on the top end of the scale and is willing to reburn with a slightly different fuel constant. TL shows it to be running (mostly) rich and on my one full run, O2's started at 815 and ended at 750. After looking at the whole 950 frames (about 15 minutes?) taken during cruise and a half dozen 2nd gear jumps, I can see the O2's falling steadily as the chip adjusts. First start (open loop) was 895 - 915, after going closed loop they fell from 895 to around 760 on average, but again, x-counts are almost non-existent (usually 0, never more than 20). This truck has never (in 1500 miles) been "active" though, I've tried 2 ECM's and 5 or 6 O2 sensors and nothing changes there.
 
The low BLM is typically a MAF or injector problem.

Have you tried running a stock MAF?

What size injectors are you using?

The O2 Xcounts some chips will disable in open loop idle. careful on this issue.

Sounds like you have to sort out the chip and drivabilty before getting the alky squared away.

I always say.. if you cannot get the drivability rite.. dont go WOT.
 
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