Twisted hard fuel line by fuel filter.

[Snorman]

After changing an in-tank fuel pump, I like to throw on a new fuel filter after a few miles. The previous owner of this car had just replaced the pump last year, and the car probably only had 200 miles on it since then.
Tonight, I figured I'd put in a new fuel filter. I get under the car, put a wrench on the filter nut, and try to loosen the fitting on the hard line. It's a little stubborn, so I spray a few shots of Liquid Wrench on it, tap it with the wrench and wait a few minutes. I get back under the car, and try to loosen the rear fitting again. I figured it was just siezed a bit due to a light bit of spray undercoating that was on the threads. I give it a bit of torque and turn it 1/2-2/3 of a turn and immediately realize that the fitting isn't loosening...the freaking fuel line is twisting!
I managed to tighten it back up, and most of the twist came out, but there remains a slight kink that obviously won't help fuel flow. Are these hard lines still available, or should I switch to a braided line from the pump assembly outlet to the fuel filter?
Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks.
S.

 

[ThikStik]

Me do da same thing within minutes of buying my TR. My car was from Florida-(North Cuba) and had the salty , corroded O. E. filter . Twisting was inevitable. Icheaped out and spliced some fuel injection hose in. Lucky, because I had just enough of an end left on filter side to attach hose to. It leaked until I tighten the out of it.
GL

 

[salvageV6]

You can get a filter at Pep-Boys the purolator ones with a nipple on one end the proper flange for the flare on the other end.

Just make sure you get the one with the correct flow arrow in and out with your pipe fitting on the right end.

High pressure fuel injection lines been spliced into salvageV6 for 12 years now. Works fine. Get the right hose over $1 a foot.

They also make repair flare ends and you can use the same filter with just a piece of line on the nipple of the fitting to the cars hard line. Double clamp all rubber or braided fuel injection line.

 

[TurboDave]

Along with the correct filter, always always use flare nut wrences on the fuel line fittings (includes those on the fuel rail). And not just one, two. One on the filter and one on the line

 

[wagon]

The replacement lines are available in stainless from several of the vendors. The rear one is hard to do though. You have to undo the body mounts, and lift the body off of the frame to get it in. If the line isn't kinked too bad, then I wouldn't worry about it. As long as it is only a dimple. If you can get one side off, but the other is welded to the line, then just remove the side you can get, and unscrew the filter from the other line. If you want to just repair the line, you have a couple of options. You can use that filter with the hose barb that was mentioned already. You can splice in a repair line using a section of hose, or you can splice the repair in by flairing the ends and using a union. Good Luck.

Brian

P.S. My GN had a 4 foot section of hose for years going from the fuel filter to the tank. I don't recommend this method, but it works. Just make sure you use fuel injection hose, double clamp it, and keep the hose to a minimum.

 

[Snorman]

Thanks for the help everybody.

salvageV6,
I found the fuel filter you were talking about. It's got a nipple on one end for a 3/8" ID fuel line and a nut on the other. I'll splice in the fuel line this weekend.

S.