When I changed mine I asked for 89' Trans Am. If I recall correctly there was something like "All" in the books for driveline. I had taken the shaft with me so I had it there to compare with what was said to work. It was the same, it worked.
A note on the removal/install. (After finishing this I realized it got quite long!!)
If you can get ahold of a press it makes life nice as turbov6joe mentioned. I am trying to recall but I want to say the TTA joints are epoxyed in from the factory. You have to heat the rings on the yoke to boil out the epoxy. No big deal, a little propane tourch will do the job. Do this before pounding or pressing out the joints otherwise they are in for the duration.
For the most part:
Mark the trans yoke and shaft so that you know how they line up. Mark the shaft and diff yoke for the same reason. Use these marks latter to put the shaft back in the same relation with the yokes. It just helps to reduce possible vibrations by putting things bac together with the same orientation.
Determine if they are epoxyed in. Look at the rings on the end of the shaft that the joint rides in. You will see what looks like little nubs on each side of the yoke, this is the excess epoxy. If the joint has been replaced you should see the empty holes. If there is epoxy I take the shaft and support the end over a box or something to catch the mess. I fire up the tourch and apply heat evenly over the ring at the end of the yoke. You will have to throw some heat at it but eventually, all of the sudden, it will start to push its way out of the holes. Keep going untill it stops uzzing out. Be careful, you are also heating up the u-joint cap and the grease inside. Get it hot enough the grease will expand and it could fire the cap out of the ring. Ask me how I know.
If the joint has been replaced there will be a c-clip on the inside of the yoke on each u-joint cap close down tothe body of the joint. Pop the c-clips out.
Now, as turbov6joe mentined, get a big f'n hammer and an old socket, or something to use like a punch, and drive the joint out. Drive it through one way to push the opposide cap out, drive it back to push out the first cap.
In sum to take it apart.
Mark the shaft, remove the epoxy or clips, pound it out.
To put it back together start by cleaning out the rings on the end of the shaft. Carefully pull the caps off the joint. You will see the needle bearings held inside with some grease. The hardest part is keeping them there. Simply put the center of the joint in the yoke, drop it to one side so that the bare arm pokes through the ring, ease the cap pack over the arm, and gently tap, or press, it in as you hold the arm up inside the cap. Once the cap is in, shift the joint to the otherside and do the same, just keep an eye on the first to make sure you have some of the joint's arm in there to hold the needle bearings in place. Think ahead, use an assorment of sockets, blocks of wood, etc, to support the shaft, give you ground clearance, and to use as a "punch". Don't forget your alignment marks. A helper is a good idea so you have someone to hold the shaft as a whole. A vice is nice. I have also used a vice like a little press to push the caps in. Once in make sure the caps are centered and put in the c-clips. Eveyone I have ever done was darn near perfect in that the caps had to be correct before the groves in the cpas were exposed to allow the c-clips in. perhaps I have just been lucky.
One other note, greasable u-joints. If you buy joints that are greasable you will see holes for grease fittings between 2 arms of the joint. Take a look at the drive shaft and realize its direction of rotation while the car is in drive. You will notice that at each joint there is a drive and and a driven side. IE at the trans the drive side is the yoke at the trans, the driven side is the shaft yoke. As the drive side transfers power to the driven side the arms of the joint attached to the driven side "rotates into" the driven side. The opposide side of the arms "rotate out of" the driven side. In effect you have 2 points in the body of the joint that "compress" under forward load, and 2 points in the body that "expand" under forward load. You want to orient the grease fitting hole on the compressed side. The conventional thought is that under real power if the hole is on the side that would naturaly want to expand you have a weak point where the u-joint could fail by literally ripping itself apart. Don't forget to grease it when you are done.
Hope all of this helps, and sorry it was so long.
brent
