Uber-rich, stumbles

[pvt num 11]

Okay, part two...

Would a fouled O2 sensor fool the computer into thinking that it was running super-duper lean, and thus make it dump lots of fuel, fouling plugs and stuff? My month-old (maybe two) plugs are, like, Gothic-BLACK. I unplugged the MAF and let it idle in my carport for a good half-hour, seemed okay, but God forbid I stick it into gear. Runs like total butt-crack.

What sort of conditions would make our cars run really really rich?

 

[pvt num 11]

I finally got the SES light driving home today - 22,33 and 34. I'm going to do some research right now....!

 

[pvt num 11]

Hmmm... MAF low and high... TPS low... Hmmm. Reset ECM... No more codes, starts and runs better, I tried my hand at idle re-learn, it seems to idle much better now in gear and out of it, but I'm blocked in. I'll see how it drives tomorrow on my way to work.

 

[Lee_Burough]

Hmmm... MAF low and high... TPS low... Hmmm. Reset ECM... No more codes, starts and runs better, I tried my hand at idle re-learn, it seems to idle much better now in gear and out of it, but I'm blocked in. I'll see how it drives tomorrow on my way to work.

Do you have any scan tool numbers? They would probably give you a big hint about what is actually going on....

 

[pvt num 11]

I wish... Ran 'okay' on the way to work, which is millions of times better then what it had been doing. Shrug. I'm gong to hit the wife up for Scantool money once I get paid, she had better say yes! It stays lit off without me trying to help it along, and driving is actually somewhat enjoyable now.

 

[pvt num 11]

Update

Okay, it's still intermittant, but I've found that nailing the gas will clear it up most of the time. I can leave it in second gear and nail it pretty good and the car responds really well, run it up to around fifty then ease off, boost gets up quick to around 13psi or so, I'm not totally WOT, and I'll do that a few times. Doesn't take long at all to jump from twenty to fifty, it's good to have a car that has healthy torque again! It seems to idle in and out of gear like trash somethines though, to the point of stalling out once or twice. Other times, it's totally fine and drives without a hitch.

Thinking my GReddy turbo timer was screwing up the ECM, I pulled the fuse (so I have no horn, power mirrors or interior light, but oh well). I also quit getting Chevron Premium, went to generic Premium. (Hawaii has 10% Ethanol in their fuels, though, would this screw with something?) Not sure if neither, either or both made the problem less noticeable.

Saving some pennies for a Scanmaster, I'd like a used v.2.1 (Anyone? Anyone?) but if I have to, I'll spring for a new one.

 

[im faster]

i have a scan master you can use... im on pearl

 

[pvt num 11]

Sending you a PM...

 

[pvt num 11]

Codes 34 and 45. Reserching now.

 

[Lee_Burough]

CODE 34

Trouble Code 34 indicates that the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor is reporting less air is entering the engine than makes sense based on RPM and TPS. The MAF sensor produces a frequency output; around 30 Hz at idle to 150 Hz under acceleration. The frequency varies proportionally to airflow. The ECM monitors the frequency and thus determines airflow into the engine. Typical idle MAF is 5 to 7 grams per second.

The conditions for setting this code are:

no Code 21 or 22 (TPS Error) present, and
the air flow reported is < 4 grams per second, and
TPS indicates 10% or more throttle position, and
the engine speed is 1800 RPM or higher, and
the above conditions exist for over 5 seconds.



Typical causes for this code include:

1) Faulty air ducting to or from MAF sensor
2) Faulty ECM-to-MAF connections
3) Poor routing of MAF harness (i.e. near coil packs)
4) Maladjusted TPS sensor
5) Defective MAF sensor
6) Defective ECM

CODE 45

Trouble Code 45 indicates that the O2 sensor is showing a persistently low exhaust oxygen content (rich), despite the efforts of the ECM to decrease injector on-time (thus decreasing fuel delivered). Integrator and BLM numbers may indicate < 128 by a substantial margin.

The conditions for setting this code are:

no Code 34 or Code 35 (MAF error) present, and
the O2 sensor voltage remains above 752 mV, and
the ECM is in Closed Loop control, and
throttle position is < 2 percent or > 20 percent, and
the above conditions exist for more than 20 seconds.

Typical causes for this code include:

1) O2 sensor defective or contaminated (if incorrect RTV sealant or too much RTV is used, this may happen)
2) Leaking fuel injectors
3) Fuel pressure too high
4) EMI interference from poor plug wires
5) Evaporative Emission system defect
6) TPS and/or EGR problem
7) MAF sensor reading higher airflow than is actually present

You should start by trying a known good MAF, inspecting your air ducting in front of the turbo, the air canister plumbing and the other easy things to inspect listed above....While you have the Scanmaster, check and post your idle values.

 

[pvt num 11]

I got the codes using my jumper wire with the car off (will that matter for the MAF code, or is that a stored code?) - I'm going to have to splice some wire onto two of the leads so I can ground and power the Scanmaster properly, then I'm definitly going to get some readings.

 

[im faster]

i belive i have another maf

 

[SouthernCal GN]

Basics- do the basics. Have you done the spring cleaning as on gnttype.org? I'd start there, including resetting the IAC and TPS- then, get a scantool, and start posting your numbers.

 

[pvt num 11]

New plugs and wires, oil needs to be changed again (Mobil 1 always), TPS was set to .42, cleaned my K&N filter, hoses and intercooler a few months ago... Didn't want to tackle the IAC by myself, but I'll look into that, too.

 

[Quiky One]

Dont adjust the IAC unless you need to. Let us know the numbers.

Jason

 

[pvt num 11]

O2 voltage .39 - .425 mV, 0 knock.
TPS .40 shut, 4.44 WOT
MAF flow 17 idle, 14 stumbling
INT 128
BLM 150 idle
LV8 (whatever this is) 80 normal idle, 180+ stumbling
IAC counts normal 45 or so, hunts up to 80 while stumbling
Codes 33 and 45 constant, SES light NOT lit at idle (parked).

Looking at the Quick Reference Page from gnttype, I'm guessing my LV8 is totally jacked up, so is my IAC, as it hunts to allow enough air to keep the motor lit off. O2 voltage is low. BLM is high.

Any thoughts what sensor I should look at first?

 

[Razor]

BLM 150 idle

Any thoughts what sensor I should look at first?

You sir have a problem. Search High BLM's.. tons of threads..

can be anything from bad maf, bad injectors, to a broken vacuum hose, bad EGR, etc.. get your BL to 124-132 and the car will purr..

Until then.. you better be changing the oil like every 100 miles.. your getting heavy cylinder washdown, and contaminating the oil.. bet it smells like fuel.

Search and read.. then post.

 

[pvt num 11]

You sir have a problem...

I sort of figured that... I did find my EGR hose loose a few weeks back, stuck it back on. No change, though.

 

[Razor]

I sort of figured that... I did find my EGR hose loose a few weeks back, stuck it back on. No change, though.

Say it again.. I can lead ya to water, but cant make you drink..

"Search and read.. then post"

You have days worth of reading..

 

[pvt num 11]

Drove this morning to work, 2.5 miles away.
All readings at idle:
MAF 08
LV8 58
INT 108
BLM 105
IAC 25
TPS .42 (idle, cooling it off after driving it)
Still have codes 33 and 45, no SES light.

It drove a million times better, idle was free from any stumbling, no hesitation under load, no knock on part-throttle second-gear acceleration runs. BLM's showed 105-110 across all RPM's.

I'm guessing here, but it seems that some component is experiencing an intermittant failure - when it works, it works, when it's screwed up, the car runs like total trash. Did some reading on BLM, but the search function doesn't work all the time... I'm due for a new O2 sensor and I'll go get a set of vacuum lines just becasue it's a good idea.

Any thoughts?