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Unplug the the O2 sensor and car runs smoothly?

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Replaced the MAF . . . NO CHANGE! AAHHHH.

MAF numbers are still the same, and so is everything else. Mechanic also said it really seemed like it could be a vacuum leak. So I'm going recheck everything. Are there some hidden vaccuum lines somewhere that I could be missing. I know the line to the heater valve is broke, but I don't think that has it's own vaccuum source.

Had a code 32 the past few times I test drove it, but I'm thinking it's just because I took of the EGR to clean it and its prob leaking. I will seal it up tonight with copper RTV.

Not sure where to go from here . . . the O2 numbers are not "lazy" they move up and down constantly.
 
I forgot what all you changed and checked. :cool:
Post what you have done so far, codes, and some numbers.
 
Well . . . I replaced all of the vacuum lines last week. The idle got significantly better.

I was getting a Code 32, so I replaced the EGR solenoid. The code has gone away and it sounds a little better.

It still doesn't idle great, it doesn't surge anymore, but it is still rough.

The rpms fluctuate between 725 and 800

BLM steady at 113
MAF steady at 6
O2 fluctuates constantly
IAC at 22
TPS set at .42

I only have 3 weeks before I go back to school, so I'll prob just drive it, not sure how much more time or $$ I will have to stick into it this year. Over the winter I plan to convert the module and coil to the newer Type II ignition. Also prob the 87 ECM and MAF. I have an adjustable FPR, so maybe I will put that on as well.

Thats about all for now. Thanks for all of your help.
 
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