unplugged cam sensor & maf and....

[wbzautocustomiz]

Ok troubleshooting and started car warmed up drove stopped unplugged cam sensor and car drove for about 500ft then shut off plugged cam sensor in started ran, unplugged MAF while running and no change except when plugged it back in car stumbled for a second both set off there codes, also installed new crank sensor also but problem still there car breaks up at high rpm, I had another thread going on about problem also FYI I have checked all the "regular stuff" cam sensor set, hoses tight, vac leaks, plugs regapped .025-.035, etc, etc., ....... wow car has been kicking my a**! and its winning. I live in maryland/ dc metro area looking for a fellow TR owner/shop any suggestions other than Anderson Performance in Baltimore?

 

[TurboBuRick]

Yea, they can put you through hell.

When you unplugged the cam sensor and drove 500ft, your saying the car died? Or you shut it off? Did you get a chance to go wot and see if it was still breaking up??

Is the cam sensor cap factory style? Not a casper's led?

What spark plugs?

 

[wbzautocustomiz]

CR43's , factory style with a caspers cam tool though, yes car shut of at wot, so does the crank and cam, maf sensors operate like that?

 

[trbojo]

like i said in your other thread, start looking at valve train...i went through this for a YEAR.....

 

[TurboBuRick]

CR43's , factory style with a caspers cam tool though, yes car shut of at wot, so does the crank and cam, maf sensors operate like that?

You did check the cam sensor wheel under the cap? It is tight?

The car should not have died with the cam sensor unplugged.

Question: Are all your ignition components ac/delco? Module, coil, crank and cam sensors?

 

[wbzautocustomiz]

yes have used ac delco after market ones from good running cars and then my parts worked for them and I have even tried out the type II ign module/coil setup , brass ring tight under cap, and yes I am starting to have to say I will have to do cam swap too seem to be about a year battle for me too T.

 

[TurboBuRick]

If the cam is worn you will get a consistent rhythmic miss when you try and push it. As the lobe wears more, the miss will start sooner and get worse.

It's simple enough to pull the valve covers and check it.

I would pull the driver side first. Usually #3 exhaust is the first to go.

HTH!

 

[wbzautocustomiz]

have a few things to add

1) Check engine light will flicker as break up occurs,Why?
2) Car wont do it every single sime WOT but runs well at idle and halfway
3) When I do remove valve cover how to tell whats wrong?

 

[TurboBuRick]

If thats the case it's not the cam. A flickering ce light changes things. That sounds like potential chip or ecm problem.

Do you have access to another chip and ecm?

 

[wbzautocustomiz]

yep both

During the infant stage of this nightmare I swapped with few ecm's new and used then I got a new TT chip matched to 42lbs inj's thinking that would fix it but the problem just seems to exist now matter what goes on I still have spares that I have tried back and forth with no change It seems to be electrical which I was wondering is there a chance that with the cam sensor plugged in car does run but unplugged no so, is cam sensor creating a "closed loop" for a circuit and problem lies into whatever that could be

 

[TurboBuRick]

When you unplug the cam sensor, the ecm goes into "limp mode". Instead of having sequential fuel injection the ecm batch fires the injectors. You can actually here the injectors change rhythm when when you unplug the cam sensor. The car should continue to run without dying.

The flickering ce light is no doubt a electrical issue. If you have eliminated all the components then I would take a closer look at the wiring. Make sure your positive and negative cables are tight and have good connections. No white corrosion. You would be surprised what that do. Trace the positive cable down to the starter. Make sure it's not shorting out on the header. Thats pretty common. When the motor tourques to the side, the cable makes contact. Also make sure the cable is tight on the starter.

Cycle the connections on the ecm plugs. Check the grounds on the back of the head. You can even go as far as to ohm out all the ecm wires. Here is the ECM Pinout Scroll down it shows the module and and other component circuits.

Keep plugging away at it. Hard find a shop who knows these cars anyway, you will just throw your money away at Ma&Pa's. There are only a few select places around the country that are qualified.

HTH

 

[wbzautocustomiz]

keeping at it

Thanks for help and pinout but have it and all values seem to check out, yesterday installing new crank sensor actually pulled starter off to check and clean up, as far as cables go clean and clear of making contact, no corrosion visible clean at all connection points, as far as grounds at pass side head caspers ground stretcher kit done a while back I also ran a separate 4 gauge ground cable from battery neg side to firewall then from firewall to ign module bracket on intake. So does that mean if car dies when cam sensor is unplugged then ECM isint doing its job? Then I have 3 bad ECM's? my only other Tr buddy has is car all torn apart so I cant just plug up my ECM's to his and check. Also FP ive tried it at from 42-46ish PSI line off throughout the process maybe fuel delivery needs more PSI just not sure how much PSI is too much to screw anything up

 

[wbzautocustomiz]

update I Think some improvement

Ok increased in FP about to 48psi line off according to rail mount gauge ( prob incorrect) car improved alot car went from a stumble to a split second cut out and at same time Ce light pops on car dives and loses ignition source it seems for that split second as cut out/dive occurs then man she goes

 

[trbojo]

ce light popping on just sparked a memory...esp at wot...i had this happen once....turned out the tps was adjusted wrong...sometimes when my foot went a little harder into the pedal, the tps voltage would go too high...i think over something like 4.96 volts...that also put the ecm into limp mode too, i think....anyway, when i had that problem, the ce light would blink and car would feel like ignition breakup....something to look at....keep us posted....

 

[wbzautocustomiz]

Still at this bulls**t!

I have the tps adjusted I think its right @ WOT its usally 4.66-4.68 and now with the CE light flash car dives and I do lose power for sure radio, scanmaster, etc. blinks off completly then back on thats why I think its electrical maybe a bad ignition switch? I dont know what it is but Im gonna find it and fix it one day.

 

[drturbo69]

p.m. sent doc

 

[lgonzalez_1986]

get a voltage meter! check all your wiring and all resistance, and get good grounds!

 

[wbzautocustomiz]

I have a voltmeter and all grounds good Im going to put voltmeter on main ign wire at steering column and see what happens when problem happens and then everywhere else main ign power goes if i can then will report back with findings

 

[wbzautocustomiz]

I think i found my problem

In my trunk there is a set of wires ran for a looks like a old trunk mount cd changer and those are connected to the controller tucked away out of sight in center console since I disconnected removed all that car seem to be a beast now, so i will keep my fingers crossed to keep her running like this I really want to thank all of you members that have gave ideas, help, etc on all my threads about my car running bad over the past 2 years. I kept saying "I know its something simple!" and if I'm right it sure was. Thanks