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SignUp Now!If you're swapping for tubular control arms, trust me you'll will wish you never did. I've driven plenty of GN's with both upper, and lower tubular arms and it doesn't drive well at all. I wanted to swap until I drove a couple. Then I put Energy Suspension bushings in my stock arms and was very happy with the results. Just trying to help. :smile:
Is it the ride quality or a tracking problem?
wow that is weird. Maybe I'll just do the lowers now and later down the road if I don't like it I'll do the uppers too. I am at least ganna put polyurithane bushings in there though.
I wonder if the umi's are a little different length than the stockers?
It's not really the control arms, its the alignment.
I have tubular uppers on my 2+2 and i can take my hands off the wheel at 160 mph and it goes straight down the road.
You want a lot of caster to track straight, so if the the tubular are you are using don't have any, there's your problem.
Adjustable tubular arms would allow as much caster as you can use.
How the heck am I supposed to get the nuts off of the fron mount of the upper control arm? I can barely fit a shallow well 1/2 drive in there. It's only deep enough to get maybe 1/4 of the nut.
Thanks
Are you talking about the rear suspension?
Sounds like you are talking about the rear upper control arms.
If so...get a 1/2 in drive 6 point socket on the bolt. Then use a 3/8 to 1/2 adaptor on it, next a swivel and then your 3/8 drive ratchet. Impact gun (or large rathchet) on the other side, it will help tremendously if you have someone use the impact on the bolt while you hold the ratchet in place on the nut.
PITA to do, but can be done with a little patience. Makes it a little easier to get the socket on and off if you use a small prybar and bend the metal away from the bolt on the backside of the floorpan, no one will ever see it. Just make sure to not scratch it up while doing so, if you do hit it with a shot of spraypaint to prevent rust further down the road.