Control Arm Recommendations

[AdammRyan]

87gn is coming back from T-top repair and I want to start working on suspension. Car will be both driven around town and taken to strip hopefully semi regularly. Car is full weight. Will be in the 600s to the ground.

Right now for the rear:
I have Viking Warrior Rear Double adjustable coil overs with 12 inch 150lb springs and HR Parts rear sway bar upper and lower control arm package.

Looking for opinions for the front. I would like to get Viking coil overs up front too. I was recommended by them (Viking) to get the warrior or berserker in a 350lb spring. I was also told by a different vendor that spring would be to light and was recommended to get a 450lb spring. They gave a few vendors for control arms and this is where I would like help too. I was recommended UMI, Trick Chassis, Global West, CPP, and Smith etc.

Was looking at Trick Chassis G Body A-Arms Coil over Part #TC480

It says no sway bar mounts which my car has a front sway bar. So admittingly as a new person to this... Does that mean running with out front sway or it will have to be fabbed to mount elsewhere?

Any overall help or opinions on this would be great. I have searched through forum some what but thought id be more direct with questions.


Thanks in advance,
Adam

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[1KWIKSIX]

I have a gently used pair of 350lb QA-1 front coil over springs available for a reasonable price (if you’re interested)

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

I found some info years ago while looking up suspension stuff.
The ‘86- ‘87 regals with the touring package (T-types, Turbo T’s and Grand Nationals) had front spring rates of 422 lbs/in and rear spring rates of 118 lbs/in.
It seems the front springs on the standard regals (non touring package) were in the 350 lb/in range. I don’t recall seeing info on the rear spring rates.

In comparison, the UMI Performance front springs are 600 lb/in and the rear are 130lb/in.

It seems guys who go to the drag strip often don’t run a front sway bar and with the HR rear sway bar are ok with driving it on the street as long as you’re not racing around corners.

Food for thought.

 

[Turbo6inKY]

QA1, UMI, and Speedtech all make control arms that are functionally identical, but only UMI offers upper arms that use a rod-end instead of a bushing.

I had the delrin bushings melt out of my Speedtech arms. In my opinion, only the UMI uppers or OEM with the rubber bushings should be used on our cars. Only steel and rubber can handle the heat.

The OE F41 front springs were ~420lb-in. So use that as a reference. 350 sounds way too low. You'd have trouble not slamming the nose on the ground under braking.

 

[Major Nutz]

I did UMI upper and lowers with viking coilovers 450 springs. I'm about an inch from being out of adjustment raising the front end. Currently sits at 25.5 inches measuring the middle of the wheel well. I'll probably change them to 550 springs when the weather is cooler.

 

[dynoman]

I have Global West upper & lower front A arms , well made and have sway bar mounts .

 

[Turbo6inKY]

I did UMI upper and lowers with viking coilovers 450 springs. I'm about an inch from being out of adjustment raising the front end. Currently sits at 25.5 inches measuring the middle of the wheel well. I'll probably change them to 550 springs when the weather is cooler.

If you're happy with the 450 rate, but want the adjustment closer to the middle of the shock (which it really should be, you could be hitting max shock extension in droop, which is bad), UMI can get you a taller spring in the same rate.

 

[AdammRyan]

I did UMI upper and lowers with viking coilovers 450 springs. I'm about an inch from being out of adjustment raising the front end. Currently sits at 25.5 inches measuring the middle of the wheel well. I'll probably change them to 550 springs when the weather is cooler.

Have you done any weight savings?

 

[AdammRyan]

I appreciate all of your responses and am learning more.. It seems that the drag style control arms means running without front sway bar. With alum heads/intake rjc pulleys i should think some weight taken off front end. Will have to get it on corner scales.


Thanks alot
adam

 

[~JM~]

I appreciate all of your responses and am learning more.. It seems that the drag style control arms means running without front sway bar. With alum heads/intake rjc pulleys i should think some weight taken off front end. Will have to get it on corner scales.


Thanks alot
adam

I have an H&R rear bar & have removed the OEM front bar. Still retains OEM front suspension. Street handling is not as bad as I expected. I do not have many freeway on/off ramps where I live though. Most cornering is fairly slow. What I noticed most was how the front end would lift & dip more than when the front bar was installed.

 

[Major Nutz]

Have you done any weight savings?

Aluminum bumper supports (front & rear). Aluminum heads. Light weight wheels 15x8 &15x3.5
Weighs 3365 without driver

 

[jfsram]

Get 450 or higher if you expect handling improvement.
As for rear, make sure the arms have ability to tilt or articulate. Arms with solid, stiff or polyurethane are hard on mounts, bushing and bolts. Sometimes the mounts break off as the rear axle tries to articulate.

 

[1KWIKSIX]

If you're happy with the 450 rate, but want the adjustment closer to the middle of the shock (which it really should be, you could be hitting max shock extension in droop, which is bad), UMI can get you a taller spring in the same rate.

Or do what I did and install a spring spacer / collar from QA1 on your coil over

Spring Spacers | QA1

If your spring is too short and you need a little more length, a QA1 Spring Spacer can help. All spring spacers may be stacked for greater spacing.

www.qa1.net