There is nothing shiny on the magnet. Fluid looks like slightly used trans fluid.
URGENT Bad Trans? or Bad TC?
- Thread starter Dylan4570
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
there's barely anything on the magnet. disassembled the pump and it looks like a normal used pump. one side is like new and the other has barely detectable scratches, you can only barely feel them with your fingernail.
Cooler is mounted and the TCI kit is installed in the pump. I did not do any of the mods that people seem to do to these pumps. I will rebuild this trans properly some day with some upgraded parts, Its just not happening this year. I found that the thrust washer that goes between the pump and the rest of the trans had some cracks in it. I am replacing the thrust washer then I can put the trans back together and the converter and aforementioned washer should show up by Thursday. so the trans can be reinstalled.
For the cooler I have decided to run through the rad first, then the cooler. i got a massive derale cooler that covers half the radiator and mounted it to some conveniently located holes in the cross member. I also removed the cross braces. I decided to use 5/16 inverted flare to npt adapters then npt to 6 AN adapters. this way I do not have to run all new lines or anything. and it could be removed and returned to stock very easily. also I could not find flare to 6 an adapters...
For the cooler I have decided to run through the rad first, then the cooler. i got a massive derale cooler that covers half the radiator and mounted it to some conveniently located holes in the cross member. I also removed the cross braces. I decided to use 5/16 inverted flare to npt adapters then npt to 6 AN adapters. this way I do not have to run all new lines or anything. and it could be removed and returned to stock very easily. also I could not find flare to 6 an adapters...
car drives fine with connector unplugged. should i try a new solenoid? or is it an issue with the harness/computer locking the converter when its not supposed to?
TexasT
Texas, Where are you from
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2002
- Messages
- 7,141
You do need the correct flaring tools to do a 37* but who doesn't love some new tools.
There are cheaper options but if you do much this thing works great for brake, fuel and of course trans lines
i forgot about mcmaster carr. I actually use them quite a bit for work, it never crossed my mind for this application though...
Bingo, most likely part of the problem all along...
hensleyt
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2008
- Messages
- 1,555
if TCC locks its ok. it locks when told to lock, who told it to lock ? best you talk to them and don't blame the TCC.
well the car runs good. i have a TCC solenoid on the way. i also am expecting fedex to deliver a new power steering pump so ill be up and running for the wedding this weekend. I have put about 4 liters of methanol through the car since installing the alky kit about 3 weeks ago.
I am very happy with the cars overall level of performance right now. its just a matter of ironing out the kinks and minor part failures that come with an old car.
I am very happy with the cars overall level of performance right now. its just a matter of ironing out the kinks and minor part failures that come with an old car.
hensleyt
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2008
- Messages
- 1,555
Let me try it again. Dose the convertor lock? Ill will quote you. "i think the TCC is locking at incorrect times"
When a lock up converter is used, it locks at whatever speed is programmed into the chip. This is usually in the range of 40-50 mph. It should unlock whenever one lets off the gas, or touches the brake. It also normally unlocks when one accelerates sharply, or, at wide open throttle. Some chips offer a programming option to input a specific mph at which the converter will lock even at wide open throttle. This usually picks up a little speed, but it is hard on the converter.
And sometime the problem that frequently occurs is that the converter does not lock when it is supposed to. Most often this is a problem with the electrical circuit that supplies power to the solenoid in the tranny.
I find it hard to put blame on the TCC. If told to lock and it doesn't or told to unlock and it dose not, Ill be rolling around on my back taking a ATF bath pulling the pan and replacing a TCC and 6 qt of oil at $5 buck a quart $28 pan gasket and filter.
When a lock up converter is used, it locks at whatever speed is programmed into the chip. This is usually in the range of 40-50 mph. It should unlock whenever one lets off the gas, or touches the brake. It also normally unlocks when one accelerates sharply, or, at wide open throttle. Some chips offer a programming option to input a specific mph at which the converter will lock even at wide open throttle. This usually picks up a little speed, but it is hard on the converter.
And sometime the problem that frequently occurs is that the converter does not lock when it is supposed to. Most often this is a problem with the electrical circuit that supplies power to the solenoid in the tranny.
I find it hard to put blame on the TCC. If told to lock and it doesn't or told to unlock and it dose not, Ill be rolling around on my back taking a ATF bath pulling the pan and replacing a TCC and 6 qt of oil at $5 buck a quart $28 pan gasket and filter.
The converter was staying locked I believe as a result of the TCC solenoid sticking which seems to be a documented issue with 200r4's
Something in the original converter seems to be worn out and when tilting the converter side to side I can hear a loud clunking noise.
Since replacing the converter the majority of my drive-ability issues have been resolved. I expect replacement of the TCC solenoid will rectify this issue. for now I am driving with the TCC connector unplugged.
Similar threads
