Try this. This is a very comprehensive test procedure written up by Jim Testa on another thread a couple of days ago. It sounds to me if you are doing a resistance check and testing from "A-11" on the ECM to Pin J of the ignition module and getting a reading of 1 OHM of resistance, then the wirng looks okay to me. As you'll see in Jim's procedure you'll need a logic probe--- got 1 today from radio shack here in NC for $18, so TN shouldn't be much different in pricing. The probe will allow you to see pulses from the procedure that will verify proper functionality of the different components:
1.5) Verify 12v on pin M, pink/black wire coming from CCCI fuse.
2) At pin G of the ignition module, a dark green wire, backprobe with the logic probe and have a helper crank the car. If the logic probe blinks, the crank sensor is good. If no blink, then check for 12v at pin F, which is a gry/red wire. If you have 12v, verify a ground on pin H. If ground is good and you have 12v, then the crank sensor is bad. If you dont have 12v on pin F, the module is bad or the CCCI fuse is bad (Or a wiring problem between the fuse and module of course.)
If you have crank signal but no spark, the module is bad.
If you have crank signal, go to next step.
3) Using your logic probe, we'll check for cam sensor signal. Probe pin K, light blue wire and have a helper crank the car. Mind you the light will only blink every TWO revolutions. Let it spin a couple times to make sure the sensor hits every time and that its not flaky. If you have no puilse, verify 12v on terminal M, gray/red wire, and gnd on term L, black wire. If either is missing, the module is bad, or the CCCI fuse is blown (or the feed wire is open).
I doubt its the cam sensor because like I said, the ECM will NOT cause a no spark condition.
I think by now you will have found the problem, but if you want to go on...lets say you have ckp and cmp signal coming into the module. Now were gonna check it coming out.
Terminal C, a ppl/wht wire is ckp hi and is the signal used by the ECM. Backprobe this wire with your logic probe. Have a helper crank the car and look for blinky-blink. If no blinky-blink, then the module is bad. If blinky-blink, go to ECM pin B5 (ppl/wht) and verify the same thing. If you got blinky there, lets check for cam signal.
Go to module pin J, yellow wire, and verify the blink every 2 revolutions. If no blink, the module is bad. If blink, go to the ECM pin A11, yellow wire. Check for the same blink every 2 revolutions. If no blink, then theres an open in that wire between the ECM and module. If you got blinky, hook up yer scanner and crank the car while watching for RPM. If no RPM reading, and you have cam and crank signal, then the ECM is bad. (It wouldnt be the ECm fuse or power feed, cuz you have a data stream, proving the ECM has powered up) If you have RPM reading but no injector pulse (probe the opposite of the BROWN wires at the injectors. The brown is the power feed and the ECM grounds the injectors to fire them.) If you have RPM signal, but no pulse at the injector, then the ECM is bad.
BUT again, the ECM will NOT cause a no spark condition. So I doubt this is the case with your car.
At this point, your car should either be running, or on a tow truck destined for the junk yard as it defies logic
All the wiring diagrams you need are on gnttype. I know cuz I put them there.
