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87-WE2

Back in business!!
Joined
May 17, 2011
Messages
1,132
I really hate to post this question, but I keep coming up empty on searches. I hope you guys will be able to recognize that I really HAVE done the searches!

Anybody know part #'s for the valve seals for stock heads, stock valves? I'm replacing my springs with 980's and want to do it right the first time. I'd prefer to use Viton seals (Manley, Felpro, I'm not too particular on the brand) instead of Teflon or rubber.

I've searched and have found which ones to use on other heads & replacement smooth valves, but I have not been able to definitively figure out what parts to use for STOCK valves and STOCK heads. I know the exhaust valves get none. I've seen man-24043-8 for Manley Vitons, but those are for replacement smooth valves. I've also see Fel-Pro SS-72623, but I'm uncertain as to whether these are for stock valves.

Any help is greatly appreciated, and any ridicule is fully expected!!!
 
IMO just pick up the regular Fel pros and be done. Use a nickel or a quarter to push them on down over the sleeve/valve and guide. Lube em a lil.
 
Dan, at your request I will give you my opinion here. :)

In all the stock valve spring replacement jobs I have done, not once have the seals been replaced. If there is an issue with the valves or seals, the heads need to come off for repair.

I have seen many GN's with over 150K miles that are fine with original seals. So maybe a little oil will go through the stems, that can be a good thing to minimize guide wear. ;)

When we do a performance valve job, that is a different story. The guides have bronze inserts installed, and are machined for PC type vs. o-ring seals.

I am very fortunate to have a GN owner as a friend and fellow racer who has been racing for years with one of his cars that has been 10.9 on the original, unopened engine. I continually use his car as an example of how good the original engine will perform with minimal internal work or changes, and how important it is to have the proper supporting parts.

The heads have NEVER been removed on this GN with over 700 track passes, and internally all that has been done is replacing the timing chain set and the valve springs also - but NOT the oil seals! :)
 
Thanks for all the input folks. I'm lucky enough to have zero smoke out the tailpipes, so I guess I'll leave the seals alone. If it ain't broke - don't fix it.
Or maybe in my case, if it ain't broke - you ain't pushing it hard enough.

Thanks again - you guys are great! Hope this helps some of the other board members in the future.
 
Dan, at your request I will give you my opinion here. :)

In all the stock valve spring replacement jobs I have done, not once have the seals been replaced. If there is an issue with the valves or seals, the heads need to come off for repair.

Hey Nick,
I popped a H-gasket the other day so the heads have to come off and while they are off I'm going to clean up the valve pockets. In a case like this I would prefer to replace the v-seals and I may replace the guides with stock type guides if they feel sloppy. What replacement seals would you recommend since I'm pulling the valves out? I understand there are no seals on the exhaust side what about that little o-ring - replace it or leave it off?

thnx
KS
 
Hey Nick,
I popped a H-gasket the other day so the heads have to come off and while they are off I'm going to clean up the valve pockets. In a case like this I would prefer to replace the v-seals and I may replace the guides with stock type guides if they feel sloppy. What replacement seals would you recommend since I'm pulling the valves out? I understand there are no seals on the exhaust side what about that little o-ring - replace it or leave it off?

thnx
KS

No way!!! You just got that new 5831 on there & you already popped a HG?!?!?! AND you were running alky?!?!?! What happened??? Sorry to hear that.
 
No way!!! You just got that new 5831 on there & you already popped a HG?!?!?! AND you were running alky?!?!?! What happened??? Sorry to hear that.

Yea, That new boost controller is VERY TOUCHY!!
All previous testing was done with street tires so I put the slicks on it to see how it would run.
First run had O2's at 710-730 (!) and boost at 26psi, but no KR..:)
Second run I upped the fueling in the chip a LOT and the next run gave me O2's at 740 (!) at 26psi and still no KR. :)
Third run I upped the fuel psi at the regulator and gave the new boost controller a 1/4 turn to see if I can add some boost. That pegged the boost gauge big time and poof goes the head gasket but never heard the knock alarm go off until the gasket went..:(

KS
 
Yea, That new boost controller is VERY TOUCHY!!
All previous testing was done with street tires so I put the slicks on it to see how it would run.
First run had O2's at 710-730 (!) and boost at 26psi, but no KR..:)
Second run I upped the fueling in the chip a LOT and the next run gave me O2's at 740 (!) at 26psi and still no KR. :)
Third run I upped the fuel psi at the regulator and gave the new boost controller a 1/4 turn to see if I can add some boost. That pegged the boost gauge big time and poof goes the head gasket but never heard the knock alarm go off until the gasket went..:(

KS

FOUR-LETTER CUSS WORD! Hate to hear about that. Hope you figure out why it popped. I'll let the thread get back on track now.
 
I finally found the answer to both our questions for the intake valves:

The individual seal p/n is: Viton, part# 6-70817
http://turbobuick.com/forums/threads/valve-seal-part-number.299630/

Which I believe comes in the Felpro kit, part #SS 72623.
http://turbobuick.com/forums/threads/valve-seal-p-n.66906/#post-455002

The exhaust valve doesn't use any seals.
ks

Saving this thread for future reference for SURE! I'm going to take Nick's advice and leave the seals alone, but it will be good to have the part numbers just in case I ever have to do it again. Got my valve springs today, so I should get these knocked out Saturday along with a couple of minor things I've been meaning to do for quite a while.

Thanks for finding these #'s and posting up. I see you had to go all the way back to 2003 to find them!

Get that thing back together and maybe try to only run about 26-28psi to keep it from becoming an external combustion engine!!!
 
Yea, I put it on my desktop for reference. I wish I can find my valve spring compressor tool.. it has disappeared..

ks
 
i'd send you the one I'm using, but it's a loaner from another local TR owner!!! At least yours will be a little easier with the heads off!!!
 
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