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valve springs...Which ones????

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19TTA89

I know 8sec Pete!!!
Joined
Feb 18, 2002
Messages
970
I plan on doing the intake and valve cover gaskets soon...While I have the valve covers off I might as well do the valve springs...My question is which to use with the TTA heads????From what Ive read it looks lke they should be around 100lb. springs..But is there a certain spring to look for ....Anyone who has done this in there TTA..any pointers would be greatly appreciated...TIA,,Shawn
 
valve springs

I just replaced mine about 3 weeks ago in my TTA. They were actually weak and letting the valves float at high rpm. You can use the same tool to remove them as a small block Chevy. The TTA heads are different than the nationals. If you are taking the intake off you will have no problems at all. If you do it with the intake on for at least one spring on the back pass. side you will need a overhead valve spring compressor because the heater core pipes are in the way of the other tool. I recommend getting the 100lb springs. You can get the springs for John at www.johnspeformance.com He is a TTA owner and GM certified technician. Just go to the online catalog and the springs should be under the engine section. Good luck! ;)
 
Thanks mrtransam3....Ill check out johns for the springs...appreciate the info...Thanks..Shawn:p ;)
 
there is no "lash" on these rockers! --- but there is a torque spec for the rocker nuts !!
 
Then how would I go about finding out the torque spec?????Thanks for the replies guys....Shawn:p ;)
 
btw the is a torque spec it is 44fp and the is a preload lash you should follow it is .015-.030 that is lifter preload most of the time it is fine but if you cut the heads or change the cam this all must be checked me more perfect it is the more power it will make its all part of blue printing a engine to make more power

george
 
Originally posted by tta583
mrtransam3,

What kind of lash did you set yours up at?

Brent


Sorry, I ment pre-load. Friday was a rough day.

Brent
 
lash

Their is no adjustable setting unless you buy the adjustable aftermarket push rods from Johnsperformance. All you do is install the rocker arm back on and tighten the center nut to the torque spec. 44fp. There is no adjustment on our motors unlike a small block chevy.
 
I have been asking around about this very topic, from time to time, as I wish to do my valve springs sometime soon. Never having done it I wanted to figure out as much as I could before I dove in. I have to dig it up but some folks have been using a shim set, from Comp Cams I think it was, for some Ford engine a similar valve train. You can not get the all exact, but you can get them all close to the lash you want while keeping the correct torque spec. I have the PN and the procedure, but not on this PC.

Brent
 
Yea, i hear you....but why not change the springs at the same time you have them out and doing this shims trick?
We are only talking about $100 to get a good engine, so why fool around with shims on old springs????????

My O2
 
That was my intention, or rather what started my quest to figure out what to do. I was looking at the springs on Johns site, and I hear about using stock late model LT1 springs, then I had a couple of comp cams numbers. Each option had its ups and downs with one of the comp cam numbers looking like the best option. I started trying to figure out what I needed to do "for real" insted of just changing them, which lead to the entire pre-load conversation (shims). Where I am now is getting a firm hold on the springs. I hear a lot of folks say "I used...." but I would prefer to get a "the correct answer is....". My question, to which I need the "correct answer" is what are the specs on the stocker so I can get an equiv. aftermarket replacement, that is assuming that an aftermarket replcement will have more consistant spec numbers from spring to spring when compared to a stock replacement set.

Like I said, I want to try and do it right because I know I will have more than enough of a chance to screw it up!!!

Brent
 
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