valvetrain noise, cam + timing chain suggestions

[T TIME]

First let me apologize for bringing up this never asked topic(HaHa).
My car is an 84 T-Type w/86 drivetrain; stock D5 converter, 3" dp, 2.5" hooker exhaust, stock intercooler, 36lb. injectors, 340 walboro, stock turbo, stock maf sensor, alcohol injection, rebuilt motor w/supposedly an ATR cam(rebuilt when I bought 86 TR).
I am needing to replace my timing chain for preventative maintnance. I have heard to stay away from double rollers and I probably will. However do I just grab a cheapie from autozone, etc.? Do I use steel gear or plastic one?
I figured what better time to replace cam than when I have front cover off for timing chain. This way I would know exactly what is and will be in my motor. Another important issue to me is valvetrain noise. I replaced lifters in this engine once with stock style ones from autozone and it made a difference; both in performance and in sound. This was a couple years ago and tapping is considerably more noisey compared to my brothers' TRs and a friend's TR. I was looking at a couple of cams from ramchargers; the 208/208 and the 210/205. Are these good cams to consider for dependabiliy, quietness, and performance? What would be the difference in these? Who makes them? I would like a cam that would support low 11s, but would work well with what I have now. Future mods will include turbo and torque converter but don't know how soon.
That tapping sounds like Crap! So please Help, Anybody!

 

[turbov6joe]

First of all, whomever it was that told you to stay away from double roller timing chains is not giving you factual information! If you buy a quality name brand double roller you should never have to worry about the chain breaking or jumping timing unless something else REAL bad happens first. The stocker and the cheapo replacements are JUNK....100% junk. Why do you think everyone replaces the stocker to begin with? Surely it's not that they feel like ripping off the entire front end of their motors. I pulled one out of my 15k mile motor and it didn't look that great. As for a cam replacement, if the one in there is good to go, I would leave it and spend your time and $$$ on something else. IMO the aftermarket cams are prone to lobe failure (don't ask me how I know), not to mention it's a royal PITA to break one in correctly. You can go plenty fast with the stock cam...what is your MPH goal anyhow? BTW, if your dead set on having more lift, I would buy a good set of roller rockers with a higher ratio and get the lift you want that way...not to mention free up some parasitic drag with the roller fulcrum (sp) and tips. Just my opinions, take them for what they're worth.

 

[6SENSE]

His valve train is considerably NOISY, and always has been. This is why he is contemplating changing to a cam that he knows a little more about. If the cam had never been messed with before and still had the stocker in it, he probably wouldnt be thinking about messing with it. Then again he probably wouldnt be having the issues hes having if it was the stocker. Previous owner told him it had a cam and lifters from ATR in it. Tapping and false KR was so bad that he finally decided to just grab some lifters from AZ and throw in to see what would happen. Results were a reduction in the noise (not completely gone though), no more false KR, and reduction of about 1-1/2 seconds in the ET (if I remember correctly). A huge difference performance wise. That was approximately 2-3 years ago, engine has become pretty noisy again.
Other idea I suppose is to take the time and find out what lifter preload actually is at. That would be the reason for the extra valve train noise isnt it? However, if he has had a problem with preload all this time, his cam probably has some bad lobes anyway. Oh yeah, I also think this cam hes got probably has about 70,000~ miles on it by now. That amount of mileage on the after market ATR grind may be pushing the durablilty factor?

 

[MistaScott]

Originally posted by turbov6joe
First of all, whomever it was that told you to stay away from double roller timing chains is not giving you factual information! If you buy a quality name brand double roller you should never have to worry about the chain breaking or jumping timing unless something else REAL bad happens first. The stocker and the cheapo replacements are JUNK....100% junk. Why do you think everyone replaces the stocker to begin with?

There are quite a few people that have said that double rollers don't work too well with our cars so this is not hogwash. It is an opinion that seems to have some factual basis. That said, some people use them and have no problem.

If I were you I'd get the GM replacement. It is cheap and it will last another 100K miles which is about what you should expect from a timing chain. Most will last at least 150K or so but we change them at around 100K to be safe. I've talked to people who changed theirs at 100K and it looked pristine. The reason people replace the stocker "to begin with" is because it needs to be replaced after 100K miles. 100K miles on anything is going to wear it out.

 

[T TIME]

Thanks for the input turbov6joe and MistaScott.
Just to clarify, I do not have the stock cam in my motor. There is alot of info on this topic here and believe me, I've searched for answers. However it is a little confusing with a controversal topic like this.
I am seeking more input on timing chain suggestions, answers, good or bad stories, etc.
I would like a low 11 sec. capable street/strip car. This car will be mostly street and driven often. It will be driven hard(not abused- just sometimes foot is too heavy to take off the pedal). I'm looking for the best cam to support low 11s, produce a solid and quiet valvetrain, and a good idle. I've read about a 208/208, 210/205, 204/214 but what's the best combo for my goal?
Do I need to change pushrod length with any of those cams?

Don't be shy and help a TR brother out on his first subject posted!
! Thanks!

 

[6SENSE]

TTT