Turbo6Smackdown
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2005
- Messages
- 6,110
And by the time you are done you will only be two years older
And have arms like Arnold ??
Naw. Not at all. (though my arms are pretty buff lol) really though. the glaze is pretty effortless to be honest. and the wax, well, ya gotta do it no matter what so, no thoughts there. we all know that. trust me, if i have the patience to do it, you guys do too.
but, remember, that you dont have to do allll of this rigamorol every day. the wash/clay/wash/glaze or swirl remover/wax deal only has to be done one time. after that, and both of your coats of wax are fully cured (4 days) all ya gotta do is carry a few small microfiber towels, a california duster, and a bottle of quick detailer and spray wax. (the spray wax that matches the paste wax that you currently have applied to your car. most wax companies make a spray version of their topline paste wax for quick touchup)
When she gets dusty, just use the duster. If she gets some bird crap on her, spray the quick detailer on it, and let it soak for a few minutes, wipe off with one microfiber, then polish with another. if the crap sat there a while, finish with a quick spray of the maintenance wax, and polish her up with the third towel. its easy, and the only maintenance you have to do, is a wax safe wash every other week or 10 days or so. start in the shade, use cold water, (the mr. clean water softener is the bomb) use a wax safe car shampoo, dont use a harsh spray pattern, spraying directly onto the car. dont use a nozzel at all, and just let the water fall out of the hose muzzle, and dry her immediately with your microfiber towels. carnubas generally have a slightly deeper gloss, but arent as durable. synthetic waxes (called paint sealers) are pretty glossy, but last twice as long, as they are a harder coating on the paint. remember use several thin coats, and let them CURE.. .not DRY. theyre two TOTALLY different things. i do 48 hours in between coats. and i dont drive em while theyre curing either. if you have an orbital buffer, id let the wax dry on there for a bit longer than is stated in the direction. it makes the buffing step a bit harder, but youre fine if you have a wheel. makes for a slightly harder shell
And have arms like Arnold ??
Naw. Not at all. (though my arms are pretty buff lol) really though. the glaze is pretty effortless to be honest. and the wax, well, ya gotta do it no matter what so, no thoughts there. we all know that. trust me, if i have the patience to do it, you guys do too.
but, remember, that you dont have to do allll of this rigamorol every day. the wash/clay/wash/glaze or swirl remover/wax deal only has to be done one time. after that, and both of your coats of wax are fully cured (4 days) all ya gotta do is carry a few small microfiber towels, a california duster, and a bottle of quick detailer and spray wax. (the spray wax that matches the paste wax that you currently have applied to your car. most wax companies make a spray version of their topline paste wax for quick touchup) When she gets dusty, just use the duster. If she gets some bird crap on her, spray the quick detailer on it, and let it soak for a few minutes, wipe off with one microfiber, then polish with another. if the crap sat there a while, finish with a quick spray of the maintenance wax, and polish her up with the third towel. its easy, and the only maintenance you have to do, is a wax safe wash every other week or 10 days or so. start in the shade, use cold water, (the mr. clean water softener is the bomb) use a wax safe car shampoo, dont use a harsh spray pattern, spraying directly onto the car. dont use a nozzel at all, and just let the water fall out of the hose muzzle, and dry her immediately with your microfiber towels. carnubas generally have a slightly deeper gloss, but arent as durable. synthetic waxes (called paint sealers) are pretty glossy, but last twice as long, as they are a harder coating on the paint. remember use several thin coats, and let them CURE.. .not DRY. theyre two TOTALLY different things. i do 48 hours in between coats. and i dont drive em while theyre curing either. if you have an orbital buffer, id let the wax dry on there for a bit longer than is stated in the direction. it makes the buffing step a bit harder, but youre fine if you have a wheel. makes for a slightly harder shell
