WB02 Bung - Welding 101

[turbojimmy]

I need to weld or have someone weld a bung for a WB02 into my downpipe (TH mild steel). We bought my dad an oxy acetylene torch kit as well as a Lincoln electric 3200HD welder for father’s day last year. We had the tanks filled and the stuff has not been used since then. The welder has never been used so I’m thinking now might be a good time to put it to use. I've never welded anything but I'm willing to learn. The welder came with decent instructions and a video. The question is – can I use this thing to weld the bung into the downpipe? I think the bung is stainless. I do not have the shielding gas for the welder though it has a regulator if I choose to add it. I think I can weld without it though? Should I give it a whirl?

If I decide to do it, what’s the best way to make a hole for the bung? How big? Should the bung fit completely inside the hole or sit on top?

TIA,
Jim

 

[Morbid]

I would use C25 gas (argon/CO2) as opposed to flux core wire (gasless). A 40 CU bottle will run about $100.00 plus another $20.00 to fill it. You may be able to lease one (yearly) for less than $50.00 plus the cost of filling up the gas. You'll also need wire for Stainless as opposed to Steel.

MIG welding is the most easiest welding types there is. Once you learn how to hold the gun and control the "puddle", what settings to use for voltage and wire feed speed (IPP) your all set.

Plenty of places on the web with mini how-to's and Miller has some great info on there site.

I would grab some scrap metal and practice a bit then have a wack. You may not get the prettiest welds at first but that will come with time. The biggest problems most first timers have is "blowing holes" in the metal (when welding thin stuff).

MorBiD

 

[Blown&Injected]

ER70 is fine for what you need to do and the steel wire will be far more common for other welding needs.

Flux core is also OK for what you need to do but it is not as clean and if you already have the regulator...

 

[Jerryl]

Have this one done at a muffler shop for $10
Use scrap to practice and set-up the machine.

 

[turbojimmy]

I'm definitely going to dust off the machine but probably not for this job. I'm going to order up a 40 CU ft. tank - it seems that gives me the most flexibility.

The local Meineke gets $50 for anything I bring them so I think I'll shop around a little.

One other question: the welder came with a cheap hold-it-yourself shield. What do I look for in a helmet? I'd like an auto-darkening one.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[turbofabricator]

In about 20 minutes of instruction you can be a pretty good welder after you practice for an hour or two. With your dads MIG welder you can just do a series of spot welds all the way around the bung to install it. Just pull the trigger and hold still for about 2 seconds. Then while the weld puddle is still red hot, move it forward and weld another puddle halfway or 1/3 of the way back over the 1st puddle. If you do it right, it will look like a nice bead all the way around.
I would go to your local weld shop and talk with them about what welding hood to buy. Auto darkening ones are also available from Harbor Freight. I personally do NOT trust my eyes to cheap helmets, though. Most of the time the guys at Central wleding are very easy to ask dumb questions to. They understand that you NEED help, and usually do a great job of explaining what/how to do it.
I agree that the ER70s wire is all you need to even weld the headers on a stock Buick. ER70S will weld stainless, but it will rust. I sometimes tack stainless stuff with my MIG (ER70S wire) and then weld with TIG but grind off the tack welds. Sure beats trying to change the wire over and have all that waste. If you DO use stainless wire, you MUST use pure Argon as a shielding gas or the welds will look like a chicken took a crap on your parts. Just tell the guys at the weld shop that you need MIG gas. They'll know what you need. Be sure to ask any questions you may have. That's what they're there for.
Just a precautionary note here: Always unplug your ECM in the car when welding. I have never hurt one, but its easy insurance. Completely remove it from the car. With MIG wleding there isn't alot of EMI, but with TIG welding (especially aluminum AC) there is enough to hurt things.

Swing by my shop and I'll gladly teach you how to weld as bad as I do. Now's the time to learn to MIG weld. You will be able to do MANY things to your car that you never dreamed of. A MIG welder should be in every garage of a Turbo Regal owner. They're cheap and do a great job of joining two pieces of metal.

 

[Blown&Injected]

^good post!

The one area that could cause trouble for a new welder - even experienced welders can have trouble with welding a 1/4" piece to sheet metal thick material - somebody was saying something about blow/burn thru.

The arc should favor the thick part.

One reason the spot weld idea is good is that you will stop after every two spots (one spot, then another 180* off) then wait or even use a wet rag to cool it off - and it will still warp a bit messing with the threads.

CLEAN BRIGHT well fitting metal welds best - dirt, paint and oil will mess with welds

 

[turbojimmy]

Swing by my shop and I'll gladly teach you how to weld as bad as I do.

I'd take you up on that if you weren't way on the other side of the country.

I definitely want to learn to use the MIG welder, and will do it soon, but I'm not sure I want my THDP to be the victim of my learning. I've got plenty of scrap stuff around to play with.

In the meantime it turns out one of my dad's clients (he's a CPA) lives locally AND is a semi-retired welder. He offered to come pick up the pipe, weld in the bung, and bring it back. Doesn't get much better than that (unless I can talk him into doing it at my dad's place with the new welder and to give me some pointers, too).

Jim

 

[S2V6RACER]

Be sure to chase the threads with a tap when done welding.

 

[turbojimmy]

Well I struggled with the DP for about an hour and said screw it. I couldn't get it to drop out the bottom and since the test-pipe had become one with the DP it wouldn't come out the top either. I bolted it back up and took it to Meineke. They were able to weld it into the DP about 7" from the elbow without removing the pipe.

So, it cost me $75 (an hour of labor) but it was worth it not to have to destroy the DP or the test pipe. They used a step drill bit and had a better bung (had a shoulder so it sat on the pipe).

The LM-1 is a little bulky - I didn't expect it to be so big - but the WB02 is neat. Now I need to hook up RPM, EGT, boost and TPS to it (yes I could've gotten the Powerlogger but I like to do things the hard way).

Jim