Weird #s

[hiboom]

I like it's easier to ask for forgiveness then permission

 

[Bigjsn250]

Changing the fuel via the chip? I'm not the smartest guy in the world but I would say change it at the Regulator if your going to make a change. Maybe someone else will chime in that knows more.

Not saying I know more, just going off the fact it has a TT chip. TT wants the Fp at 43psi line off and then to make corrections from that point by using scanmater/chip. With that said I totally agree with you that he needs to know if the fuel pressure is rising 1:1.

One thing I either missed or the OP did not mention was if this just started happening? if the car was ok when you first bought it and then developed the knock, it helps on where to start looking.

Couple of other things. That MPH is real low for tuning. You should be rolling into the throttle in drive to get your reading. A lot of stuff including shifting is happening at lower speeds, far more chances of false knock. I would also look at the current settings on the scanmaster, go through them one by one and write them down.

I would make a WOT hit in drive and see you get knock. That's a simple starting point that you can do immediately.

 

[hiboom]

TT chip wants FP at 43psi line offI think thats more of a base starting point I don't think that's written in stone. + or - a few psi not going to kill anything who's to say how accurate a gauge is ?

 

[Bigjsn250]

TT chip wants FP at 43psi line offI think thats more of a base starting point I don't think that's written in stone. + or - a few psi not going to kill anything who's to say how accurate a gauge is ?

Agreed. With that said look back at post number 3, he's already added 5psi via the reg.
if he bought the car and it was not knocking then I don't think the fuel pressure being low or gauge being off is the problem. I've owned my TR since April lol so I might be way off.

 

[hiboom]

Agreed. With that said look back at post number 3, he's already added 5psi via the reg.
if he bought the car and it was not knocking then I don't think the fuel pressure being low or gauge being off is the problem. I've owned my TR since April lol so I might be way off.

If he bought the car and it wasn't knocking the seller probably had race gas mixed in so when he test drove it the buyer would be impressed with the way it run sort of seal the deal type thing I mite be wrong I know, I see this kind of thing being in the business

 

[Rafs-T-Type]

If he bought the car and it wasn't knocking the seller probably had race gas mixed in so when he test drove it the buyer would be impressed with the way it run sort of seal the deal type thing I mite be wrong I know, I see this kind of thing being in the business

There's still no reason he should be seeing knock @ 15#'s.

 

[Bigjsn250]

There's still no reason he should be seeing knock @ 15#'s.

x2

 

[Rafs-T-Type]

Your seemingly now good O2's, but still getting knock makes me lean toward a clogged injector. That or your running more boost than what you are reading.

 

[87-WE2]

There's still no reason he should be seeing knock @ 15#'s.

There could be a shitload of timing programmed into the tune. Just an idea.

 

[HighMileage]

Leave at 43, check for when the knock happened as stated could be at the shift.

Also make sure your FP gauge is correct check it against another gauge. These gauges take a beating and are notorious for being off.

X2. Always confirm that your gauge is correct. Just because it is new,doesn't mean it is right.

I've got an expensive Autometer FP gauge in my car,as well as one of those underhood ones. The underhood one is not correct as per my Snap-on FP tester.

Once you get two gauges to agree,then you can feel confident that you have the correct reading.

 

[Rafs-T-Type]

You think the knock would be that high for a shift? It seems like shift knock is usually just a blip.

 

[horndog]

You think the knock would be that high for a shift? It seems like shift knock is usually just a blip.

I haven't driven it over the last few days as I am putting new Bilsteins on her.

When I test drove the car it did not have larger injectors, down pipe, adjustable FPR, adjustable wastegate, boost gauge, knock guage and boost controller. He did have a tank full of 110 but boost was at stock levels. So the race gas was just to please your senses

Part of the deal is he would install above items. I am not sure if he spent a lot of time on tuning afterwards and the expectation was not so.


Since this first post I found the O2 sensor was loose and may of thrown some numbers out of wack.
Three is also a bit of an annoying exhaust leak on the pass side that I have been trying to track down. Just enough to cause a tick tick noise.

Other than that it spins the stock pizza cutters quite well and needs some more fine tuning.

Does that further help?




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