Weld or band clamps on exhaust?

[WakkoSS]

Ok, I got my Hooker system with Aerochambers (thank goodness) yesterday. I'd really like to use band clamps to install it so I can remove it later on if I want to without destroying it. Will band clamps hold the exhaust in well enough or should I just have it welded in? When I installed Cotton's exhaust on my 87 T I used band clamps but deliberately didn't put them all that tight (I knew I was taking it out in a couple weeks). The exhaust moved around and even fell out when I was pushing it off the trailer (had no engine or DP to hold it together though).

Feedback?

 

[BLACK6PACK]

It comes with clamps, and I asked this same thing when I got my hooker setup. Everybody told me to get it welded. I installed the entire thing while lying on my back with the back of the car on a set of rhino ramps. I then took the car to an exhaust shop and had them weld it. Tell them its aluminumized so they use the right stuff. I also had them make me a custom off road pipe to taper the THDP to the catback. They modified the one that comes with the hooker exhaust.

Tip. Paint the little "L" brackets that attach to the frame behind the back tires with some silver paint. That is the only thing on my exhaust that is rusting.

 

[WakkoSS]

I did the "install on ramps" bit once...what a pain in the butt. Worst part was taking the OLD stuff out. What'd the exhaust shop charge you to weld it up? I've only been to one shop and they quoted me $100 to R/R the system.

 

[BLACK6PACK]

It was somthing like $10-15 a weld.

Getting the old system out wasn't too much trouble at all. I had to cut both pipes where they went over the axle to get it out, but after the cuts, it was out of there. I wanted the system installed strait and clean, so I did it myself. Prospect muffer is a pretty good shop. Its on prospect about a mile east of 95.

 

[xlr8ngn]

I recently replaced the cat converter on my 94 jeep and it was clamped together. It was E X T R E M E L Y hard to get the pipes apart after they were clamped. The clamp works by collapsing the two pipes together, and I literally destroyed the existing converter getting it off. Then, I had to expand the exhaust pipe to get the new converter on. I am sure there is a tool that exists to get clamped connections apart, but if you don't have one like me, you will most likely damage the system getting it apart after clamped. I would not be afraid to rely on the clamps to keep the system together either.

 

[jshilli1]

I took the clamp off of my cat where it bolts to my downpipe and could not get them apart- there's no telling how long they were clamped together, but it appeared that taking them apart would ruin an inch on each pipe and require the cat to be expanded again. With stainless or farther "downstream" where heating cycles are less severe this might not be as much of an issue.

 

[Kid with a toy]

The only thing I clamped on mine, was the downpipe to the test pipe. Everything else was welded together. That way, if I had to do some work under the hood and the downpipe was in the way...poof, out it comes.

Send Turbo GN an email, and ask him how much fun it was to cut his downpipe from the rest of his exhaust...that old man worked his pebbles off.

Erik

 

[turbo]

You have to disinguish between "band" and "U" clamps. I think most of the guys have been talking about "U". Those clamps suck!


I' ve had band clamps on my downpipe to cat, crossover pipe (two piece) use muffler ceramic then band clamp, ATR exhaust ...all BAND CLAMPS! No leaks and they slide off without any problems. That's because they don't crimp the pipes, just squeeeeeeeeze them.

So when you say "clamp" what kind are you talking about? Try and be more clear.

P.S. I've used them for over TEN YEARS!

 

[channer]

I used band clamps on my Hooker exhuast & downpipe/cat and it's held together for two years. I did it because I do all repairs/work, and I wanted a system where I can unbolt a couple of bolts and slap on a new muffler...

I also did it because... eventually everything from my TTYPE will be move over to my GN...

dave

 

[WakkoSS]

Ok. Thanks for the responses. Please RE READ my first post. I keep specifying BAND clamps. These are the kind that wrap around and not compress the pipes.

The held for two years Channer? That's what I'm tryin to find out. If they hold that well, I'll put it on myself and just use my friend's lift.

 

[Super6]

walker band clamps

I bought these from summit for my 3"atr single shot exhaust. they are nice and hold the exhaust tight. I was short a clamp and had to go to the local parts store(that sells a lot of big truck parts)to get another. It wasn't as good as the walker. I really like them and can remove the exhaust at anytime. i wouldn't use the u-bolt clamps just for looks alone. the band clamps are nice and clean....................................................Bob

 

[channer]

Hey WakkoSS,

I ended using preformed band clamps by Torctite.... http://www.torcausa.com/Torctite.htm. These are actually heavy duty truck clamps.

They held a little better than just the straight band clamp that you see in the Jeg's Catelog.

I actually started with 2 straight/flat band clamps because that's all the local perfromance shop had.... and picked up another 2 (torctite) at a muffler shop. After I got my hooker exhaust system together, I put the clamps on. I tightened the band clamps as tight as I can and the muffler still moved. I tightened the torctites... and the muffler was on solid. So I went back to the muffler shop and bought two more 2 1/2" and a 3" torctite for my downpipe/cat. (this is a paid advertisement for torctite.... just kidding!!! IMO... the torctites actually do work better)

I hope that helps!!!

dave

 

[turbojimmy]

If you do use band clamps make sure the exhaust system is hanging from the underside of the car properly. I used band clamps on my TorqueTech 3" system and they kept coming loose and allowed the mufflers to rotate down. Even with the U-clamps, the mufflers rotate and I have to tuck them up there once in a while. If I were to do it again, I'd have it all welded up to the cat/dump and use a band clamp where the cat/dump meets the downpipe.

The real problem with the TT setup is that there isn't much holding the mufflers up. Some little clamps at the back of the mufflers and then nothing until you get to the cat hanger. The "y" pipe is HEAVY and has a lot of leverage. I'm not sure how the Hooker system works, so you may be okay with band clamps.

Jim