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VernLee

Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2004
Messages
1,377
Comig back from a cruise last night, got on the car from a twenty mph roll, and all of a sudden, smoke like yo've never seen,out the exhaust, under the hood, every where,I'm assuming it's a head gasket,Alky on, showed no knock, what so ever, trailered it home, checked my oil this morning, GOT MILK, :mad: Do you have to pull the motor to change head gaskets ? what's the best way to determine which side it is ? and should you change both sides, even if it is only one side bad, 3000 miles on motor,guess after I get it fixed, I'll turn the boost down a little :D
 
do compression test on each cylinder. and no you do not have to pull engine unless you use head studs.
 
VernLee said:
showed no knock,
Do you have to pull the motor to change head gaskets ?
should you change both sides, even if it is only one side bad,

If you were relying on the stock knock sensor, they're deaf to pre-ignition. Having a Wideband, and EGT can be cost effective. :(

No.

Yes.
 
gbsean said:
do compression test on each cylinder. and no you do not have to pull engine unless you use head studs.

Even if you have head studs you dont always have to pull the motor to do them...
 
Thanks for the reply's- just trying to build the gumption and courage to ty into this project, from your own personal experience, how long should/or did it take to change head gasket's.
 
VernLee said:
Thanks for the reply's- just trying to build the gumption and courage to ty into this project, from your own personal experience, how long should/or did it take to change head gasket's.

It will take twice as long as doing 1/2 the job. :)

Seriously, what others can do it in, shouldn't matter. It sounds like this is your first time, so just IMO, chaulk it up to class room time. It might take alot longer then you could possibly expect, and by the same token, beginner's luck might shine on you, and you get it done in under a day.

I've had cars actually seem to fight me, and take 3x times what a given job should have taken.
 
if you take your time and have all the right tools etc it can be done in a weekend. it took me a total of 12 hrs spread over a year. Was not in a hurry. remeber to drain antifreeze and oil. I also took off my hood to make it easier. It is possible to take off the intake manifold without removing throttle body and plenum and feul rail injectors etc. be carefull when removing the metal water heater line on the passanger side. I snapped mine off and had to get another from g-body. I would do it again. and in probally 1/2 the time.
 
Thanks guys, I put the motor/ and car together myself, but it was a piece at a time, out of the car, and no front clip on the car at that time, and that was two summers ago, If a guy doesn't do it every day you ( I ) tend to forget the little tricks of the trade. I'm sure I'll be back hear with questions, before I'm done, thanks again
Vern
 
went to my main motor rebuild guy today, he said to use Cometic head gaskets, has any one used these ? with what kind of results ? It was his opinion, that Cometic was much better then G.M. ?????????????????????
 
Do both sides.

Drain the milkshake immediately if you havent already. This is priority.

If you run aftermarket pistons, the cometic gaskets are an option. Do a search under Cometic.. there is tons of discussion.

I've had success with stock gaskets, Felpro PT9441's, 1007's, etc.. prep in my opinion is key.

Drop me a call, i'll walk you threw it. If you have a buddy.. the job can be done in a day's time. Especially since the motor is fresh, too much crud shouldnt be a concern. Now the issue of dropping the oil pan and cleaning it out.. would be wise.

May decide to do a quick bearing inspection to see whats up. Like a rod or two.
 
Alky on, showed no knock, what so ever..

That scares me a bit.
Any words of comforting assurance?
 
Alky on, showed no knock, what so ever..

That scares me a bit.
Any words of comforting assurance?

What are you really questioning here?
There are alot of variables which causes faults!
Did you fail to read Vern's post? It goes like this:

Thanks guys, I put the motor/ and car together myself, but it was a piece at a time, out of the car, and no front clip on the car at that time, and that was two summers ago, If a guy doesn't do it every day you ( I ) tend to forget the little tricks of the trade. I'm sure I'll be back hear with questions, before I'm done, thanks again
Vern
So what words of comforting assurance would you like?
If you trying to point your finger on Alky-your on the wrong pathway!!
 
All fluids drained.
Hyperutectic pistons. .040 over.
thanks for the support,thanks Razor,I'll only call if I'm completely baffeled.
Let me clear up a few things. the short block was assembled by my rebuild guy. when I say I put the motor together I mean every thing but the short block, My guy used felpro head gaskets, AND I was at 25 lbs. boost. But still didn't see any knock on my casper knock guage, and alky was sprayin. I shut it down before I looked at my scan-master to see what it said for K.R.
All I can say about the alky is, this would have happened a lot sooner then it did, had I not been using the alky :D I can't say enough good things about the alky system.
it's just depressing,when the car was running so good,and only a few miles on the complete over haul, Oh-Well, $hit happens.
 
We get used to the idea that knock is what blows head gaskets, but they can let go for other reasons. Maybe a head bolt got loose, maybe the heads or the block were not completely flat and true, there's a bunch of "maybes" that could have caused a head gasket to let go. Smoke everywhere? Coming out of the breathers, maybe? Or maybe the intake gasket let go. There are other ways for water to get into the oil, besides the headgaskets. Let us know what you find, and good luck!
 
Vernlee, sorry to here of your gaskets.looks like you have
plenty of help and support here.
just wanted to add woodward was alot of fun last night 30+
turbo buicks cruisin :D awesome!!

imo i would go w/ cometics.

good luck see ya around.

burg. turbo T
 
Well I got the intake off, drivers side valve cover, and rocker arm, But I have worked better then an hour just trying to get the back lower valve cover bolt out, with roller rockers/tall valve covers, I have about a 1/4 inch clearence to work with :mad: And if I do succed in getting it off, I don't see any way under the sun of getting it back on :eek: Looks like I've got to drop my 3'' down pipe to get the header bolts out too. I'm seriously wondering if I'm going to have to pull this engine, to get this done. I had to walk away from it for awhile, Iwas about to take the sledge and torch to it :biggrin:
 
After my first HG went back in Jan'04. Another went a month latter at low boost.. I blamed the bolts and TQ wrench.. after another went at 20 PSI a month after that.. I knew something was up. Sure enough the heads needed .007 taken off to make them flat. Machine shop dropped the ball. My fault for not checking them after they gave em to me in a nice clear bag.

Resurfacing them correctly.. issues resolved back to 30 PSI.

Those heads are still on that car after all this time using Felpro PT9441's. Talking now at least 200 1/4 mile passes at high boost.

Nothing special, just attention to details.. good surface prep.. and a little patience.

As they say, once our cars ditch the first set of HG's.. its a down hill spiral. but trick is to catch it in time so it doesnt keep occuring.

Being around these cars and people racing them.. it happens. Walk through the pits at any Buick event.. there will be a racer doing HG's in the parking lot. It comes with racing. Hopefully addressing common assembly mistakes, and addressing prep.. should give tons of reliable usage.
 
it is easier to get to the rear header bolts from underneath the car. Also if you have a set of racheting wrenches you should not need to take off the down pipe.
 
dcp00479wi.jpg

Hey guys think I can reuse this :D
 
bruce said:
If you were relying on the stock knock sensor, they're deaf to pre-ignition. Having a Wideband, and EGT can be cost effective. :(

No.

Yes.

What is the difference between preignition and what the knock sensor detects?


Oh, and I am sure you can reuse that. Just put some silicone on it and it will be fine :eek:
 
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