Wet or dry better for a turbo car?

NEARING

Active Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2002
Which would be better and why?
I personally like the wet system for my LS1, not relying on the computer to tell the injectors what to do.
 
I myself have no nitrous kit. But my friend took the cheap way out and got a dry kit and ran a 150 shot. He had to invest in a new intake after a couple of shots.
 
no no. LOL 150 on a tr I don't want to even imagine. It was on a mustang cobra. (ford) That says alot. But just trying to tell you other peoples experiences.
 
Juice

I thought could could ONLY run a wet system in the Buick, unless you had some type of aftermarket engine management.:confused:
 
As far as i know (correct me if i am wrong) Wet is safer than dry. Dry you have to spray before the maf sensor and it compensates with extra fuel (or atleast you hope). Wet sprays fuel and nitrous into your engine after the maf sensor. Wet you don't have to worry about fuel. Dry you have to wonder if your maf will keep up with the nitrous you are putting in. Safer bet would be to go with wet. But there are no FOR SURE's with nitrous. I personally would not put nitrous on a tr. I have enough problems getting my boost to work right much less, boost and nitrous. But i am pretty sure wet is the lesser of the 2 nitrous evils.
 
wet or dry

Most dry kits raise the fuel psi an additional amount to enrich for the nitrous. Compucar has the "Nitrous in a bag" that sprays the nitrous through the maf and the ecm richens the mixture. Then when the maf maxes out at 255grams-kaboom. Might work good with Trans.+ and LS1 maf and big inj and extender chip. Wet kit is easier and safer when tuning.
I don't remember the fellas name-but this guy used a 70 shot till 19# and went from 11.0 to a 10.60. He had a 60series turbo and a 12"conv.
I even have my Buick kit on a 95 4.6 Cougar and I'm using it dry-a 100 shot to the filter box aimed at the maf and it picked up 8/10's in the 1/8. Most people think it aint hooked up when I show them the other solenoid has no fuel line and wires are not hooked up!
 
yes-8/10

It went a best of 10.24 on motor w/2.5 60ft. On spray it pulled a 2.1 60ft and went 9.41 and 9.47. When I sprayed it I left @ 1800rpm(same on motor)but when I left I tapped the button(sorta pulsing the solenoid)and held it from 2500rpm on.
Slayed every 4.6 Stang there!! Putting 3.73's in place of the 3.08 next weekend.
Remember,the less power your motor has the bigger effect NO2 has on it(NA motor):)
 
big shot on TR

This is second party info but about 10 years ago a fellow I know bought a GN and wanted to spray it. He called all the major nitrous companies. Either Compucar or Top Gun had a GN at one time and he was told they had sprayed 175 shot and it was blowing MT Sportsman Pros off on the street. Don't know who BS'ing or if it was true.
Now I know for sure that a fellow here was spraying 125 on his GN. 150 on street races! Even backfired 2or3 times and ruines the maf. W/125 it went 7.1-7.2 in 1/8 mile. W/150 it supposed to go 6.9-7.0. He got tired of people trailering cars to street race him. That's where I got my kit from,it had 125 jets in it and he gave me 150 jets too. I bought 75and100 myself.
People still talk about it being king of the street "back in the day".:D
 
I have a dry kit on my Formula for a few of reasons. First, the manifold isn't really made to flow liquid and fuel can puddle. Second, fuel solenoids can go bad, and spraying 100hp worth of nitrous without any extra fuel gets ugly pretty fast. Sure, an injector can go bad too, but that's much less likely. Third, a wet kit is way more tempermental in relation to bottle pressure. I like to be able to spray a shot at 700 psi or 1150 psi and not have to worry about jetting. A wet kit with low bottle pressure will be pig rich.

My $.03 :)

Peter
 
Top