What Do You Think Hp Level Will Be

NJTurbo

Simply The Best
Joined
Jun 22, 2002
Well as most of you know i have been collecting S2 parts over the last year or so. I am just about set to go to assembly:D The last piece i need is a good roller cam set-up, some machine shops are telling me that i should have the machine shop doing the work custom grind one. I am still undecided on that. With the pieces i have listed below, I am just trying to get some feedback as to HP level I should expect.

S2 Off-Center Block
GN1R Full race port heads
GN1 Roller Rocker Shafts
83LBS Injectors
3.580 Billet Crank
6.5 Rods
T76 Turbo 4 bolt housing
BG Off-Center Intake
70MM TBI
CAS V1 Front Mount.
ATR 4 bolt headers
Fast bank to bank
Weldon 2015 Fuel Pump
224/224 Roller Hydraulic Cam is what i would to run.

Thanks for any feedback. I am thinking 650-700hp.:eek: :D
 
Travis,

That is a small cam for that many ci and that big of a turbo.
I just purchased a roller from Duttweiler for a stock block 232 with a 70-72mm turbo that is way bigger than that!!!
Cal Hartline runs something in the 230 ++ range. Talk to a shop or person that has put up a number like you want to run.

You can not go wrong with one of the following!
Dan @ DLS does David Bamfords Stuff
Cal Hartline 8.5 with stock suspension and champion heads
Ken Duttweiler (do I need to say anything?)
Bill Anderson (Neo)
Job @ Turbo People (one of the best turners!)
 
John, I think Travis wants to drive his car on the street so that's why he is thinking about the 224/224 hyd roller cam (it is on the mild side for a bigger cube Stage motor, but it should work fine)...... I know Cal built a S2 motor that was 274ci, PT74 turbo, 200r4 tranny, Champion GN1 aluminum heads, FAST system, and the 224/224 hyd roller cam...... The car is 3700lbs and has run 10.12 @133mph (I'm sure it has an easy 9 second pass in it)..... It's on his website.....

http://www.hartlineperformance.com/customers/index.htm

Travis, realistically I think your combo should be good for 800-900fwhp (700-800rwhp), but depending on your goals with the car you may want to go with a bigger cam as John said (if I were you I'd get some opinions from the guys John mentioned)

Good luck:) :cool:
 
Thanks for the feedback. I was thinking that I may be a little light on the cam side myself:confused: I was under the impression that anything bigger than 224 i would be going solid and i really did not want to go solid. I may be wrong:D

Street car, Well the car will see minimal rides to the boardwalk:D I have the wifes clean white T stock for now:eek: to cruise around. I kinda told her that i am changing her heads and intake for better fuel mileage:D

700-800HP good thing I decided to run a 400 Trans.

:eek:
 
Travis,

I think our cam is 236 range and it is hyd roller for a stock block.
Lobe seperation is about 115 and the lift is in the 580 range.
Duttweiler has access to the new comp billet blanks and the cam button. You can basically get what you want. I would listen to Kenny though!!!
 
Duttweiler Performance
805-659-3648
Call between 8 and 9 AM Pacific Time!!!
 
cam

njturbo--Scott Porter (STP) has almost the exact setup as you will have. He is running a 224-224 solid. I saw him go 135 mph @ Bristol with a very conservative tune. A 2004R trans also. Maybe he will chime in. Very streetable car.
I just bought a new 218-224 hyd roller. If I had bigger heads (Stock Iron now) I would have bought a copy of his cam. He took me for a ride in his car. Most awsome street car I could have imagined.
 
Re: cam

Originally posted by Lee Thompson
njturbo--Scott Porter (STP) has almost the exact setup as you will have. He is running a 224-224 solid. I saw him go 135 mph @ Bristol with a very conservative tune. A 2004R trans also. Maybe he will chime in. Very streetable car.
I just bought a new 218-224 hyd roller. If I had bigger heads (Stock Iron now) I would have bought a copy of his cam. He took me for a ride in his car. Most awsome street car I could have imagined.

Lee yes i remember STP and I have very close combo. Maybe i will get lucky and he will chime in.

John thanks for the number.

Lee 200R4 i hear you, I just cannot see dumping $2000.00 on one as i can get a fully built 400 for under 1k and not have to worry about it.

Does anyone have HP numbers except for Steve (The Brick). With my crank ratio the engine will be 269.926 CI not a 274CI. I guess it will rev a little higher.

:D :D
 
I went 131.8 with a 210-204 roller in a 3780# car with me in it and a 72 turbo, But i am upping it to a 224 now.
Otto
 
With pretty much the same set-up, with a 236/236 solid. 23 psi -650 rwhp. Ran 9.90's @ 140 @ 3350 with low 1.5's 60 fts.
 
i dont think i agree on the cam issue. Dave Bamfords car has a 224/224 in it and has run 143 with it...3500 lb car.

I am going to run a precision 224/224 with comp r lfters on my 265 " with a new 74 gtq turbo and will spin it to 6800.
 
Originally posted by Trbobuick
i dont think i agree on the cam issue. Dave Bamfords car has a 224/224 in it and has run 143 with it...3500 lb car.

QUOTE]

Brian, It's smaller than 224/224 and a little heavier 3560. ;) :D
 
I am not going to argue with the man Mr. Top Gun.
He and Dan have done great work.

Travis is your motor a 4.1 or 3.8 Block?
The more cubes you have the more duration you need
to have the same effect of the 224 on a smaller motor.

224 on a 240ci might be the same as a 236ci on a 272.
 
Originally posted by John Wilde
I am not going to argue with the man Mr. Top Gun.
He and Dan have done great work.

Travis is your motor a 4.1 or 3.8 Block?
The more cubes you have the more duration you need
to have the same effect of the 224 on a smaller motor.

224 on a 240ci might be the same as a 236ci on a 272.

4.1 :cool:
 
Originally posted by njturbo
4.1 :cool:
Trav, I think you should put in a 206/206 flat tappet cam, that's all you need.... :)

I can't go having you catch me now can I?

Screw the street driving, you'll never get it to hook up on the street anyway, you'll blister the tires, especially with a small cam. Call Dutt up and have him grind you a nice big solid roller cam, 260 duration or so.... Problem solved, you'll be mid 9's at under 20 psi and never have to worry about it.... :)

Besides, I keep telling you, they are no fun driving on the street, you’ll always worry about breaking something. They are just too damn expensive to fix, I only speak from experience… :)
 
Hey Travis, caught this post this morning. Go solid!! With that full ported set of heads you are gonna want to spin that thing. I am running an out of the box set of R heads with a 224/224 solid. I contemplated the hyd vs solid issue because I didn't want to fool with adjusting the valves with a heater box and A/C. Well it wasn't that big of a deal after all. Only takes me about an hour to do both sides now. As far as your HP numbers go, I think you are being pretty conservative. My car put down 520 rwhp on 10lbs of boost. Couldn't turn it up past that due to a fueling problem. Need to get it back out to the dyno this winter sometime.. Should be fun whatever you decide.....Good luck
 
Screw the street driving, you'll never get it to hook up on the street anyway, you'll blister the tires, especially with a small cam. Call Dutt up and have him grind you a nice big solid roller cam, 260 duration or so.... Problem solved, you'll be mid 9's at under 20 psi and never have to worry about it.... :)

Artie thanks for the advice you are correct. :cool:

Hey Travis, caught this post this morning. Go solid!! With that full ported set of heads you are gonna want to spin that thing. I am running an out of the box set of R heads with a 224/224 solid.

STP why solid over Hydraulic if the lift is the same:confused: Also is the solid very noisy. THX Guys ;)

Artie i would love to run side by side with you. :D
 
Originally posted by njturbo
Artie thanks for the advice you are correct. :cool:



STP why solid over Hydraulic if the lift is the same:confused: Also is the solid very noisy. THX Guys ;)

Artie i would love to run side by side with you. :D
Not so much noisy as you can't hear it over the clickty-click of the injectors on a B2B system.... :D With HYD you have a spring that pumps up with oil. When you accelerate the ramp up speed of the cam will cause the HYD lifter to compress a little. Basically the more aggressive, the longer it takes for the valve to open up all the way. Jack Cotton's engine had a HYD in it and he did pretty damn well with it for years. Then he went solid and more aggressive and well, you know the results, 8’s city!

Although HYD lifters have come a long way, on a race car there is no other substitute to solid lifters IMO. You can really snap open the valve, you also need the spring pressure to go along with it so you can close it quickly.
 
Although HYD lifters have come a long way, on a race car there is no other substitute to solid lifters IMO. You can really snap open the valve, you also need the spring pressure to go along with it so you can close it quickly.

Artie are you saying 224/224 Solid is the way to go. Also how many times do you need to adjust the valves. THX:cool:
 
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