What Does "Tuning" Mean To You?

[Pronto]

Here's some better info on what the numbers on the SM mean: http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/Scantool_Readings.htm

 

[turboc87gn]

Im gonna be needing this info soon....Thanks for the thread!

 

[HelloBozos]

You can tune a piano but can't tuna a fish...

Tuning to me is having the Best (One touch on the lean side -vs- rich is my taste)possible calibrations in air/fuel,spark advance,etc,etc,etc, for the combination Currently Built. Includeserformance,Drivablity ,Idel an Start Up manners...Getting there to the "Perfect Tune" you won't be able to do using other people's tunes/chips due to all the difference in parts-add-on's,gearing-tire size,non-lock/lock-up,turbo's-inj,etc etc,. The only way to get the perfect tune for Your car is to take Your car to a dyno/track an Tune It!!! I've done the translator plus,custom mod ECM, an chip route all professionally tuned, It's ok, but's it's still on the generic side (not to mention all the wiring mess), Any aftermarket ECM package(big3,dfi,Xfi) will give you a more precise tune for your Exact Combination with a lot less mess an whole lot more adjustably!!!

 

[turbofabricator]

Simply put..........Run as much boost and timing as you can w/o detonation. Lean the car out as long as it doesn't detonate. Keep knock retard to around 2-3* or less only at shift points. That will net you the best power. rich is slow. Low timing is slow. Make minor adjustments so as not to play pop goes the weasle. Donlt always rely on sensor readings. "Feel" the car and listen to the tone. If it starts to detonate....STOP!!! regroup and do over. It takes time. Be very patient. The race track is the best place to tune a car. Chassis dyno will help set baseline but not optimum power output. We have teh benefit of beingable to watch the performance of the engine via sensors. Being able to read spark plugs, "feel" seat of the pants harmonics, hear the tone of the engine is where it really is at. If yu have the luxury of a stand alone computer you have a much tighter tuning window available to you. If you are not running faster than high 9's there isn't a performance gain going stand alone. (just like a carburetor will make as much or more power than EFI.- peak power that is) Tuning the car to max power is a ticking time bomb, though. Any glitch in the system and it'll show you it's under belly. Most tuners leave a small cushion to prevent failure. But if you are making 125+ HP per spark plug you cannot react fast enough with throttle input to prevent melted parts . If there is ANY issue with fuel delivery, or popping/back firing, do not try and drive through it. That has probably killed more head gskets than anything. Guys thinking it'll clear itself up. STOP and fix the issue. That will save you a ton of money. Guys like Cal Hartline and Kenny Dutweiler have a God given talent and other guys (like me) have just blown up enough stuff trying to figure it all out.

 

[cuda6pak]

Dump the E3 plugs...

 

[salvageV6]

Tuning means you first must know exactly what you have, what you know can get valid data from, and knowing what is correct or right for your "hardware", then and only then can you start messing it up.

 

[ross87t]

Tuning is best summed up in one word.

Headache

 

[2QUIK6]

The o2 x-counts should cycle from 0-255 in 90 seconds or less for a healthy 02. Get that ruled out first. The 138 blm at idle isn't awefully lean but could be better. Like to see 128-132 a touch on the lean side is better as mentioned previously.
A vac leak in one of the vac lines usually makes the blms just to 140+ at idle.
Check fp next, get reading at idle with vac line off the regulator. Then tape gauge to windshield and go for a drive, should see one added pound of fp over the idle reading for each pound of boost. So 43# at idle should be 63# at 20 psi of boost.
If all good there then the chip maybe incorrect if injectors duty cycle is not maxxed at wot. That is the very basics at least, there is much more.