what is needed to get 600 cheap hp

[deauzie]

what parts are needed to get close to 600 hp ?
what are the minium turbo parts needed to get to 600 hp on a standard block and heads



Paul

 

[mark b]

If you really mean 600 HP, that's going to generally exceed the limitations of a stock block. Therefore you will need to start looking into forged pistons, caps and probably a girdle to maintain any sense of reliability. Now you are no longer talking cheap.

I realize "cheap" is a relative term. To the person that bought a Z06 instead of a $120K car, their car was "cheap"

 

[turbodave231]

There is no cheap way to get 600HP from a stock setup. You might be able to get 450-500 HP if you know how to tune.

 

[sixgun86gn]

Depends on if you mean flywheel or at the wheels.Mine makes over 400 at the wheels on 93,thats around 500 flywheel.On the good stuff I am sure it is close to 500 rwhp which would be easily 600 flywheel.This is considering a 20% driveline loss.600 rwhp is getting real close to 750 or maybe more,thats pushing it without alot of work.Either flywheel or at the wheels 600 is not cheap if you want to do it more than once.

 

[rob nolan]

There is no cheap way to get 600hp. Just get the wallet out.

 

[QuickWrench]

what are the minium turbo parts needed to get to 600 hp on a standard block and heads

No one's actually answered your question, so I'll jump in.

If your only goal is to generate the least expensive 600 horsepower [at the crankshaft] possible, using the stock block and heads, it's fairly simple:

1. TA-61/2/3 or TE-45 turbo [or your chosen equivalent], and an adjustable actuator.
2. Cold air system of some sort.
3. Your choice of upgraded downpipe and exhaust system.
4. Appropriately updated fuel system: Fuel pump(s), regulator, and related wiring.
5. 55Lb [give-or-take] injectors, and the appropriate ECM/Chip upgrade(s).
6. BIG bottle 'o Nitrous and VP C-16 or Sunoco Maximal fuel
7. A buddy's truck and trailer to get you home. Don't ignore this step.

This has been done in the past. It will work, but not for long. A more appropriate build would also include the following:

1. Have your heads and intake P&P'd by a reputable Buick vendor. It isn't necessary to go with larger valves to reach 600HP; Backcutting the stockers will do nicely.
2. Upgrade the camshaft to a new flat-tappet unit that matches your turbo, heads, and driving habits.

Proper tuning is absolutely critical at this point, since you're quickly approaching the practical limits of the stock bottom-end pieces. An experienced Buick tuner is invaluable, once you've made this level of investment.

This would allow you to generate the power you're looking for in a more repeatable, engine-friendly manner. After this, upgrades to the torque converter and short-block components would definitely be in order, unless you enjoy replacing head gaskets and/or crankshafts.

Good luck.

 

[gnx7]

to make that kind of power you are going to need a big shaft turbo, big injectors, good exhaust and efficient intercooler. A stock motor will handle it with proper tuning.

EdV on this board with 100% stock longblock 90K miles+ factory unopened with only $40 LT1 valvespring upgrade, 4 year old TE-64 turbo, 50lb MSD injectors (no ECM mod needed... or go with 57lbers for more fuel), 3" downpipe, single $110 Walbro 340 fuel pump, nice front mount intercooler, 21* timing chip, LT1 MAF with Translator (not the Trans+), 100 octane fuel with 2 gallons of 116 and 29psi with the torque convertor locked (9/11 convertor 3400 stall approx) and built tranny, he laid down 526rwhp/658rwtq. Injectors were at 100%+ duty cycle. Probably $5K in mods without labor and this is with a/c and p/s working.

Car has been in this state for a few years with no detrimental effects and consistenly runs 116-119.5mph in a 3850lb car with driver. Next weekend he hopes to run 120mph+....

A safer way to do it would be girdled block, stock crank/rods with ARP bolts, good forged pistons (TRW or JE's), balanced assembly, flat tappet or billet roller cam, ported iron heads or ported aluminum, ported lower intake, 62mm or 70mm Throttlebody, LS1 MAF with Trans+ or MaxEffort... if you have the bucks a FAST, DFI, or Motec (maybe Aussies get a better deal ). Not looking at the fuel management system the parts total and machine work would add probably $3500 on the low end and easily $5-6K on the high end if you can do engine assembly from receiving a built and assembled shortblock and add the heads/intake and the other parts yourself and install the engine.

If you have a healthy engine just add turbo/injectors/downpipe/intercooler/tuning and good gas and see how far it takes you.

Weight robs HP and shedding all the weight possible shouldn't be overlooked.

Deauzie- what car is this setup going into? Once you get past mid/low 11's in 3500lb car with these motors things start to break. Trannies/ring gears etc. Driveline abuse from these torquey motors is rough when pushed hard.

-GNX7

 

[kevans]

It's possible...i wouldn't go so far as to say it's cheap though. We have a few cars here running over 600 HP but none that I can think of that haven't had some type of head work done. Other than that...enough boost will get you where you want to go. My sig has most of what I've used to get there.

Kev

 

[mark b]

Yes, I'm missing the "cheap" part in these equations. These upgrades are virtually commodities in the Buick world now - so many people know these recipies.

What might be a better question would be: "For X amount of dollars, what can I do that will yield the most HP".

I'd say the cheapest alternative is a bowtie solution with NOS