What to do about no clearance behind pass valve cover at A/C box?

[Blazer406]

I just put a motor in my car with GN1 aluminum heads. I wanted to pull the valve covers and re-run the valves since I had cranked and driven the car. I like to have never got off the passenger valve cover. It is so freaking tight to the stock heat shield...... that I had to use bad words..... and a prybar.....to get the valve cover off. I had to take the heat shield off to get the valve cover back on. Not sure I am going to be able to get the heat shield back on the car or not.....

Anybody else tackle this?

 

[gnloyalty8777]

Look at the second picture down and thats what i had to do.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/parts-sale/368757-gn1-valve-covers.html

 

[Blazer406]

I believe the "lip" on my stock valve cover (I am currently running stock internally modifed valve covers and spacers) was binding or under the bottom edge of the heat shield..... and as you tried to lift the valve cover up.... would hit the shield.....

I know this.... it was a ROYAL PITA to get the valve cover off. Now my valve cover is scratched all to heck on that back side. I am probably going to buy some T/A's instead of the stockers since these don't exactly fir anymore since I had to clearance them so much.....

 

[pacecarta]

remove then heat shield and toss it

loosen motor mount bolts and rotate engine clockwise

if you run just a driveride poly mount it sits higher than stock so you will need to do some fab on the passenger side mount so the motor isnt tipped toward the a/c box

also check trans mounting ..a sagging trans mount or crossmeber bushings ,missing cat hanger or bent crossmember can cause problems with valve cover clearance
if trans is sitting lower than it should be the valve covers will be closer to the firewall

 

[jimmymack87gn]

All mine required was slightly "clearancing" the contact area of the heatshield with a ball pein hammer. Not visable once valve cover was installed.

 

[Blazer406]

All my mounts are near fresh (engine and tranny). Once I removed the heat shield.... it went back on pretty easy. It didn't just fall on there..... but I didn't have to use a 5lb fine adjustment tool either..... made it much better to put back on. If I had the better socket head cap screws.... and a ball end allen socket.... it would be even easier.

 

[SuperSix]

All my mounts are near fresh (engine and tranny). Once I removed the heat shield.... it went back on pretty easy. It didn't just fall on there..... but I didn't have to use a 5lb fine adjustment tool either..... made it much better to put back on. If I had the better socket head cap screws.... and a ball end allen socket.... it would be even easier.

13 Piece Ball End Hex Key Set

:smile:

 

[Blazer406]

13 Piece Ball End Hex Key Set

:smile:

Close......but this is more my speed......

7 Piece 3/8" SAE Long Ball Head Hex Socket Set

 

[turbolou]

How about using the stock valve covers with RJC spacer plates.

 

[Blazer406]

How about using the stock valve covers with RJC spacer plates.

That is what is on there now.....

Probably going to order some T/A valve covers. They should clear my springs and rockers better than the stockers with the spacers.

 

[turbofabricator]

Another trick I use is to take a big screw driver/prybar and bend the heater tubes up. You can't tell any difference, but it makes a HUGE difference pulling the valve cover. I slide the screwdriver under the waterlines and just bend them up about 1/4". Won't look any different when your done. Leave the tubes hooked up while you do this. They bend real easy. Seriously.........try it. You'll wonder why GM made 'em that way.

 

[Blazer406]

Another trick I use is to take a big screw driver/prybar and bend the heater tubes up. You can't tell any difference, but it makes a HUGE difference pulling the valve cover. I slide the screwdriver under the waterlines and just bend them up about 1/4". Won't look any different when your done. Leave the tubes hooked up while you do this. They bend real easy. Seriously.........try it. You'll wonder why GM made 'em that way.

I have done that as well.....it does help..... quite a bit....

 

[EVIL]

I removed the bolt holding the passenger side motor mount then i placed a block of would under the oil pan and jacked up the engine a couple of inches and it was easy after that. As soon as the engine started to not budge I stopped jacking.

D

 

[jimmymack87gn]

All my mounts are near fresh (engine and tranny). Once I removed the heat shield.... it went back on pretty easy. It didn't just fall on there..... but I didn't have to use a 5lb fine adjustment tool either..... made it much better to put back on. If I had the better socket head cap screws.... and a ball end allen socket.... it would be even easier.

I like my a/c in the summer so heat shield stays!!!

 

[Blazer406]

I like my a/c in the summer so heat shield stays!!!

The A/C should still work just fine w/o the heat shield. There shouldn't be that much heat in that area anyway..... the valve cover can't be giving off that much heat......

I might try and get my cover back on.... but it is off for now......

 

[Grumpy]

took ours off an never put it back on.. AC still works fine

 

[jimmymack87gn]

shield blocks heat from header/downpipe, air was 8 degrees warmer on a friends car w/out it.

 

[yelowta]

I had to take my shield off to, i didn't put it back on but i put a small piece of floor and tunnel shield on the a/c cover good to 1750 degrees

 

[Major Nutz]

The hr motor mounts are worth every penny to me. Along with the ta valve covers. No removing the heat shield of motor mount bolt here.

 

[vacuum 6]

I cut my heat shield towards the bottom, cant tell from the top. No issues.