What turbo?

[sams86gn]

Just found out my turbo is no good. Stock motor with 60 lb injectors, turbo tweak chip, ls1 MAF and translator, and possibly adding alky. Stock transmission with the stock D5 converter although when Ptc rebuild it they "added a little more stall" so my question is what turbo should I go with that

 

[sams86gn]

Will allow me a little growing room for the future but will work good on my current setup? Also not looking to spend a fortune. I know I can get a Garrett 60mm pretty reasonable but if that's not gonna be good for my setup then I don't want it. Any suggestions will be appreciated

 

[scojack_2001]

How fast do you want to go and how much do you want to spend? Answer those questions and see where you're at. Me personally, I like my TE-62.

 

[bison]

With a d5 u wouldn't run more than a stage 3 turbine or equivalent and a Garrett .63

 

[williamsGN]

spend the extra money and get a ball bearing option of whatever turbo you get.

 

[bison]

spend the extra money and get a ball bearing option of whatever turbo you get.

I disagree with this under most circumstances. The $ could be put towards a converter which will make everything work better.

 

[williamsGN]

My friend has a similar size journal turbo, 3200 TC and my BB with my 2800 pulls on his car like a freight train every time even with smaller injectors and IC. I'd never buy another journal turbo again, the spooling capability and reliability over a journal have long been proven.

 

[bison]

My friend has a similar size journal turbo, 3200 TC and my BB with my 2800 pulls on his car like a freight train every time even with smaller injectors and IC. I'd never buy another journal turbo again, the spooling capability and reliability over a journal have long been proven.

Not when they're properly sized. Spooling is slightly better with ball bearings but it's not going to make or break a combo. The converter being a piece of crap will though. Fwiw I have about 3100@0 and no matter what turbo I put on there journal or whatever as long as it's not a mass flow restriction will not effect the combos ability to run very quick. Durability isn't an issue on journal bearing setups either. Oem has used journal bearings for over 50 years. If durability was an issue they would have used something else. A lot of their r&d is done through racing projects and extreme testing that production cars won't see. I'd be more wary of durability and serviceability of the various ball bearing configurations out there. Most have no where near the r&d the oem stuff has been through. Not even a small fraction of it. When they F up you better bring your wallet and it better have a lot of $ in it.

 

[sams86gn]

I was hoping to find a good one for less than $500. I know that's a small budget too. As far as my performance goals I hope to be in the mid 7s whenever I get the alky and some radials. For now I just went with another stocker to get me by, or I may just stick with it. Bison, rough estimate of what it would cost to rebuild my stock one and maybe add a little bit of performance upgrade to it if possible? You can PM me if that would be better

 

[bison]

I was hoping to find a good one for less than $500. I know that's a small budget too. As far as my performance goals I hope to be in the mid 7s whenever I get the alky and some radials. For now I just went with another stocker to get me by, or I may just stick with it. Bison, rough estimate of what it would cost to rebuild my stock one and maybe add a little bit of performance upgrade to it if possible? You can PM me if that would be better

I can allow $125 toward a te44 if the wheels haven't been damaged on your stock turbo. The compressor wheel has to be reusable. $75 if the wheels hit or arent usable. The outright price is $625. You will need a different actuator or attach your stock one to the lower clamp on the compressor cover.

 

[sams86gn]

Ok If I decide to go that route I will let you know

 

[williamsGN]

I'd agree on the OEM holding up, but aftermarket journals.. not so much.. and to quote this guy I know

I know of a ball bearing turbo with over 30k on it. Unfortunately it was spooled without oil pressure. If damaged the backing plate so it had to be opened up. The ball bearing assembly was fine. It would have likely went many more miles if it hadn't been run without oil. There is very little metal to metal cintact in a turbo assembly. An oil film protects it from wear. The ball bearings need minimal oil to function. Journal bearings need a lot of clean oil or they are damaged. Just about every failure out there could have been avoided and is usually caused by operator error.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/precision-6765-journal-or-ball-bearing.341828/#post-2725933

I think you consider 1/4 mile performance due to all the racing you do, a lot of guys I know what a street prowler... race is over by the time they get those journals spun up - though most probably don't know how to drive like you do.

 

[mgmshar]

With your combo and budget, I think the best answer is going to be a TA49 or TE44 with a Garret 63 housing. Either turbo can be spooled with a re-stalled D5 (I ran my TA49 with stock D5 converter, and it was OK). Either turbo will run nicely at 93-octane boost levels (say 17 psi) with the potential to run over 25 psi with race gas or alky. At those boost levels, 11's are easy, and high-10's have been achieved (although rarely). If you're going to spend the money for a new turbo, I would suggest one of these.

The TA49 is completely stock appearing. The TE44 is exactly the same except the compressor cover is not stock (slightly more efficient) and will require a different wastegate actuator bracket. You can usually find one of these close to your price range (used) in the "Parts For Sale" section, or you should consider spending a little more for a nicely rebuilt one from Bison.

Good Luck,

 

[mgmshar]

With your combo and budget, I think the best answer is going to be a TA49 or TE44 with a Garret 63 housing. Either turbo can be spooled with a re-stalled D5 (I ran my TA49 with stock D5 converter, and it was OK). Either turbo will run nicely at 93-octane boost levels (say 17 psi) with the potential to run over 25 psi with race gas or alky. At those boost levels, 11's are easy, and high-10's have been achieved (although rarely). If you're going to spend the money for a new turbo, I would suggest one of these.

The TA49 is completely stock appearing. The TE44 is exactly the same except the compressor cover is not stock (slightly more efficient) and will require a different wastegate actuator bracket. You can usually find one of these close to your price range (used) in the "Parts For Sale" section, or you should consider spending a little more for a nicely rebuilt one from Bison.

Good Luck,

 

[bison]

[QUOTE="mgmshar" or you should consider spending a little more for a nicely rebuilt one from Bison.

Good Luck,[/QUOTE]

Or a new one from bison. The word "rebuilt" gets thorn around loosely. Remanufactured/updated are usually better descriptions.

 

[bison]

I'd agree on the OEM holding up, but aftermarket journals.. not so much.. and to quote this guy I know

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/precision-6765-journal-or-ball-bearing.341828/#post-2725933

I think you consider 1/4 mile performance due to all the racing you do, a lot of guys I know what a street prowler... race is over by the time they get those journals spun up - though most probably don't know how to drive like you do.

I run more backpressure than most and have a better converter than most. More street action here than you would think. Closest drag strip is 2hrs away. If the cars were close in power and one had a marginal converter with their combo the effect of a ball bearing cartridge is more obvious. 800hp vs 600hp .5 sec to full boost isn't going to matter much. Once that thing is spooled it's hammer time.x

 

[TT/Ameasap]

Ta49, restalles D5, and a good tune will get you your goal. I would also use a .63 Precision housing.
I ran this exact combo as above to 118 on the stock junk.