What would cause this...

[Warren]

Backstory... Car was running and shifting fine, for a while, then I started losing reverse, then 1st started slipping, requiring high revs to get it to move. Took the transmission out, completely disassembled it and this was the only damage I could find.

Transmission: 2004R
Converter: 10" NON-lockup
Valve Body: Art Carr Manual
VB Gaskets: NEW at rebuild
Servo: Stock GN
Fluid: Royal Purple Max Life

1st picture is of the valve body gasket (the one against the case, meaning the top gasket). Breaks or holes in gasket circled.

2nd picture is of the case. Corresponding circuits circled. (Picture flipped vertically for clarity)

Question: What is the most likely cause of these new holes in the valve body gasket? Keep in mind, all surfaces have been checked with straight edge and show to be flat on both the case and the valve body, all torque specs were correct and this failure occurred with only about 40 miles on the transmission since complete rebuild. The car had been run hard at the track, making a couple of nice passes, but nothing really wierd.

Any help would be appreciated,

Warren

 

[Warren]

Really? 50 Views in a day and a half and no comments, recommendations, thoughts or answers? I thought this is where all the "PROs" hung out. Guess the trade secrets remain secret. Surely, somebody has an idea. Don't be bashful, let's hear your thoughts.

 

[S10xGN]

Are you missing the spacer plate?

 

[Warren]

Not that I'm aware of. There are gaskets on either side of and between the anodized aluminum plates. The Art Carr Manual Valve Body kit comes with the gaskets and plates riveted together. There is no other spacer plate that I'm aware of.

 

[SSedan64]

Checked the Spacer Plate for machining Burrs??

 

[Warren]

I suppose you're referring to the red anodized plates between the gaskets. They're flat as could be, no burrs, dimples or any oddities.

Based on the way the gasket is being pushed into the holes of the transmission case (especially the yellow circled one), it would appear that there is too much fluid pressure being produced under the gasket. What I'm wondering is how that happens, what produces the pressure?

Since the long hole in the gasket (circled in yellow) is directly below one of the center support bolts and the other one (circled in red) is directly below the other one, (when assembled of course), what would cause so much pressure, or is it suction at that point?

The front pump has a new 10 vane rotor in it that was put in during the rebuild.

 

[mikestertwo]

It looks normal to me. It's caused by oil flow. Some oil gets under the gasket as it flows through the passage and slightly expands the gasket. There are some marks that appear to be caused by a burr. Just run a stone over those areas to remove the burr.

 

[Warren]

It looks normal to me. It's caused by oil flow. Some oil gets under the gasket as it flows through the passage and slightly expands the gasket. There are some marks that appear to be caused by a burr. Just run a stone over those areas to remove the burr.

Come on Guys, please read what I just said. They're flat as could be, no burrs, dimples or any oddities.

A split in a gasket is NOT normal. There has to be a reason for it besides some made up, non-existent "burr" theory. Would this be indicative of a blockage or over pressurization somewhere? If so, based on the fluid circuits involved, where could this be?

All fluid passages appear clear, the case and all parts have been steam cleaned and all of the "air pressure tests" on the piston seals have been done and they all tested as working properly.

 

[mikestertwo]

I have seen a lot of gaskets split in the passages even on stock transmissions. It's caused by oil flow. Your also using an aftermarket designed spacer plate which could be aggravating the symptom.

 

[Warren]

Forgot to mention in the first post, that the only thing abnormal I found besides the gasket splits/marks was the low/reverse housing seal (circled in green in the 2nd picture above) wasn't seated. It's been replaced and re-seated which should take care of the slipping in first & reverse, according to what I've been told. The gasket issue may be totally un-related but I'd like to figure it out before I put it back in only to find out its going to cause me another problem later on.