Whats going on ....need help!!

[cecil bass]

My we4 is falling under boost it will jump to 10psi boost then start to sputter it even sputter a-little when regular driving. I changed the plugs and wires I check the coil it's getting 13.1 k across the pack . It does have a Hotwire kit on the stock pump. What else could be going on here?? It was driving fine before this started this going on... Any suggestions

 

[lrayzer]

Got a way to verify fuel pressure ?

 

[lrayzer]

Double check all of your cold side piping connections for a split or loose connector hose, how about the fuel filter, how old is it.
you have done the basics, finish the spring cleaning ritual, you may be surprised what shows up.

 

[cecil bass]

No... What's the best way to figure the pressure

 

[Spooling]

What's the best way to figure the pressure

 

[87-WE2]

No... What's the best way to figure the pressure

Go to your local auto parts store. They typically have pressure gauges for "loan" there. The AutoZone right down the road from me makes you buy it for full price, then bring it back for a refund when you're done. I just happened to keep the damned thing one time after I was tired of returning it and re-buying it. Not a bad item to keep around with these cars. You're looking for a pressure reading of about 43 psi with the vacuum line off of the regulator, while the car is running, in park, idling. If that checks out OK, then tape the gauge to the windshield so that you can read it while driving and take it for a spin. Your fuel pressure should climb PSI for PSI against boost. In your case, you say you're breaking up at about 10 PSI so look for your pressure reading to climb to 53 PSI (43PSI base + 10PSI boost). If your fuel pressure doesnt increase by 1PSI for every PSI of boost, then you have a fuel delivery problem. This may not be the only cause of your sputtering. If you have no boost gauge, then getting the pressure gauge is pointless. I'm assuming you DO have a boost gauge since you indicate it's breaking up at 10 PSI.

If you have a Scanmaster, post up the readings at idle with the car up to operating temperature. These readings can help indicate what might be happening. In my experience, sputtering is usually an indicator of spark issues or air flow but without a scantool of some sort, we're all just guessing.

Good luck - we're all ready to help, but we need your help in narrowing it down. If you changed the plugs and wires, are you double-double sure the wires are connected to the correct plugs? Are you sure that the wire is seated all the way on the bitch cylinder (aka #6)? Spark plugs snug? Cracked plug is also a possibility.

 

[lrayzer]

Damn Ed, looks like an angry Ex-GF drew a circle on your pretty car !

 

[Spooling]

UR1Funny Guy there Mike.

When you figure out those angry females - share it with the rest of us

 

[lrayzer]

That will happen as soon as I pick consecutive winning lottery numbers, they tend to be peaceful ( and willing ) when passed out, awake....anybodies guess.

As to the shudder on the car, could have a failing MAF also.

 

[Spooling]

It could also be an Ignition Module - the device that sits under the coil pack.

If you have a buddy with an '87 - and you are nice to him, I am certain he would allow you to do a "swap and test". It is exactly how I found out my 1st Ignition Module went south.

That was before I put one of those Casper's Ignition Module Testers in my tool box.

I also got a portable Casper's Fuel Pressure gauge that allows you test - to see if your FP falls off under boost.

If you are close to 33760 - I would certainly consider offering assistance to you.

Good Luck !!!!

 

[TurboBuRick]

Stock cam sensor?

Check the tab on the cam sensor wheel.

Throw it in batch fire and see how it acts.(unplug the cam sensor with engine running) Leave it unplugged and go for a ride.

Rick

 

[Spooling]

Check the tab on the cam sensor wheel.

---------------
Tab, not sure I understand what you are saying - maybe the cam sensor cap possibly "rotated" - yet I can't see how as it's got 2 screws holding it on.

Maybe the ring inside came loose? Just trying to better understand - that's all, as I never had an issue with mine.

Tks Rick...

 

[TurboBuRick]

Glad to help,

Yes, remove the cam sensor cover and check the ring/wheel. It's key'd to the shaft with a small tab. The tab is notorious for breaking off.

 

[lrayzer]

Glad to help,

Yes, remove the cam sensor cover and check the ring/wheel. It's key'd to the shaft with a small tab. The tab is notorious for breaking off.

But this would effect startup, or am I thinking crank sensor ?

 

[TurboBuRick]

If the tab breaks, yes it could get out of whack enough to effect start up. It throws off injector sync.

 

[cecil bass]

okay I just got a fuel pressure gauge. in park and Idel. it was reading 28psi when I disconnected the vacuum from the regulator it jumped up to 33psi. I went for a ride and the pressure didn't go up under boost. is stayed 33Psi. What now???

 

[lrayzer]

Start with Filter, see if it improves, but you may have a pump issue, is it stock still ?

 

[lrayzer]

Just checked your first post, stock pump !
Call Brian at Gbody, get the pump, new sender and all.
At least you have the hotwire already.

 

[fastblackracing]

your stock pump is definatly suspect do to its age, but I want to share with you what I found in a similar situation one time. The metal pipe portion of the boost/vac line that feeds the pressure regulator was clogged up with rust and junk in it and it was slow to make the fuel pressure adjust as it should. You can run a test rubber hose from the regulator to another reference port to check this. And you will want to upgrade the pump and get an adjustable regulator asap either way, these cars need a good fuel supply.

 

[87-WE2]

okay I just got a fuel pressure gauge. in park and Idel. it was reading 28psi when I disconnected the vacuum from the regulator it jumped up to 33psi. I went for a ride and the pressure didn't go up under boost. is stayed 33Psi. What now???

Do you have an adjustable regulator? If so, increase the idle pressure to 43 with vac line off, then re-test drive. I gotta agree with lrayzer though, if your pressure isnt climbing higher than 33 you PROBABLY need a new pump (especially if it's a stock unit). I'll make another suggestion on pump supplier - racetronix. They are a supporting vendor and also have great products like brian at gbodyparts. The racetronix sender / pump combo is about as simple as it gets since it comes all pre-wired and everything. Just hang it in the tank, plug it in and fire it up. Keep us posted!