What's really necessary?

[Black84T]

I know this subject has been beaten to death, but I would like a little
more specific info.My performance goals for my 84 T are simple,I would
like it capable of low 13's when I am done,have all the basic mods required.
This is going to be strictly a street car,probably will never see a track.I am wondering will the stock hot air headers(which are coming out to be welded as I type) and downpipe let me get there,or will they prevent my goal from being reached?Just trying to spend my $$ as wisely as possible,still got alot of other stuff to do,and I just received my refinished T type wheels.

Brian

 

[RegalT-type85]

I believe stock we run mid 15's, I would say with good posi, launch, tires... you should be in the low 13's IMO. I would add a meth injection, maybe beef up the transmission if haven't already. List any other mods, T-stat , shift kit etc. The headers will have to be a ported job or get some custom made. Atleast run a 86/87 driverside header if anything, has much better flow. The Downpipe is the worse thing made known to hotair.
Gbodyparts has a nice Downpipe& uppipe for Hotairs. A bit high dollar but looks great IMO, I'm making my own when funds are back in order(hotair money pit) You could do the same with A RJC flange i believe and have a good welder mock one up for you, should be a few hundred less

 

[boostmaster]

13's

Passenger side header and downpipe, a good chip and your there. Throw on a TA 33 and at least some 36lb injectors for extra insurance. No other mods really needed. Alky injection will let you do it on pump gas otherwise you will be needing race fuel to suppress knock.

 

[Boostnitup]

13's - simple mods

You don't need alot to do 13's

On this board several have went deep into the 13's with these mods:

- adjustable fuel pressure gauge, and waste gate rod
- upgraded fuel pump
- exhaust dump replacing the cat converter
- drag radials

They did it on the stock chip, the stock ecm, and 91 - 94 octane fuel - shocking huh?

It can be done, it has been done, and you don't need more than this to get it into the 13's.

I suggest you get the car on a dyno and have it optimized with air/fuel ratio.

 

[boostmaster]

13's

I know this subject has been beaten to death, but I would like a little
more specific info.My performance goals for my 84 T are simple,I would
like it capable of low 13's when I am done,have all the basic mods required.

Brian

You don't need alot to do 13's

On this board several have went deep into the 13's with these mods:

- adjustable fuel pressure gauge, and waste gate rod
- upgraded fuel pump
- exhaust dump replacing the cat converter
- drag radials

They did it on the stock chip, the stock ecm, and 91 - 94 octane fuel - shocking huh?

It can be done, it has been done, and you don't need more than this to get it into the 13's.

I suggest you get the car on a dyno and have it optimized with air/fuel ratio.

You are correct, but he did say lowwwww 13's in street trim. The mods you suggested are very basic but won't cut it for low 13's on a hot air in street trim. As far as making it into the 13's period. Any stock hot air can get into the high 13's with no mods at all except an adjustable wastegate. I have done it several times.

 

[Boostnitup]

Street trim...

I run on a set of Nitto's as daily driver rear tires... so the interpretation of "Street trim" may mean or leave out a bit of details in the interpretation.

We lost much in early development information years ago when the site went BLANK... Several were deep in the 13's with little more than what I noted in the earlier posting. A majority of us were in the low 14's (high altitude here in Colorado added ET to my time slips and would surely be in a mid 13 or better time slip at sea level - My time slips in "Hot-Air" form bounced from 16.30 to 14.10 depending on issues... I experienced every gremlin known to man) - I had ported oversize valve Steel heads, gutted intake, 206/206 Comp cam, larger injectors and a TA-33 and wasn't running drag radials back then (traction was terrible). I always trapped 96 to 102 mph unless I aborted a pass.

I beat several of the coveted FAST factory cars;a WS6 TA, several late model Mustangs, and even a few big block Chevy Muscle cars at the Pueblo, Colorado track. They ran slower than the low 14's my little 6 was putting down in mid summer temperatures and no oxygen to be found.

I am no longer "Hot-Air" but come in to see how you guys are doing...

 

[Black84T]

I guess what I should have asked is with the current mods (in my sig)and I did leave
out that the trans is built,posi car,and tr custom cai to be added,can I get into the
13's on the factory headers and downpipe?I know they are a major performance block,
but will they work for this performance goal.As far as street trim I want to stick with
my T wheels with 235/60 BFG rubber,so at some point traction will become an issue.
Thanks for the replys so far guys!!!

Brian

 

[RegalT-type85]

I guess what I should have asked is with the current mods (in my sig)and I did leave
out that the trans is built,posi car,and tr custom cai to be added,can I get into the
13's on the factory headers and downpipe?I know they are a major performance block,
but will they work for this performance goal.As far as street trim I want to stick with
my T wheels with 235/60 BFG rubber,so at some point traction will become an issue.
Thanks for the replys so far guys!!!

Brian

I would add a few items and you will be set. A meth/alky injection of some kind to help raise boost level, lower knock. As for headers, yes they suck but find a 86/87 driverside header(post in wanted ) they flow better or port your own a lil. The heads would help big time,port and polish job, bigger valves, 100LB springs& lifters kit.

You can also go up to 245's 255's on those BFG tires. I like 235s myself tho INDY 500s. Also a rear control arm kit, ex 1978-88 GM G-Body Rear Control Arms Nothing crazy but better then OEMs which are junk. Gbodyparts also has a nice kit along with many other vendors. This will help wheel hop, launch, all around better for car.

Then you really would only have left to do is exhaust, Downpipe atleast make it into a 2.5 as it is only 2'' now from turbo elbow, even if you have a 3'' catback you still have 2'' exhaust really. Up-pipe also would help a bit. That should get you into low 13's maybe even lower depending on boost, launch etc etc

Also would be great to get a scantool of some kind, wideband o2 sensor, electric fan, Fbody radiator, LS1 maf with translator(reg,plus,pro) and the list goes on and on but Atleast a scantool IMO

 

[boostmaster]

I guess what I should have asked is with the current mods (in my sig)and I did leave
out that the trans is built,posi car,and tr custom cai to be added,can I get into the
13's on the factory headers and downpipe?I know they are a major performance block,
but will they work for this performance goal.As far as street trim I want to stick with
my T wheels with 235/60 BFG rubber,so at some point traction will become an issue.
Thanks for the replys so far guys!!!

Brian

Here is the answer to your question plain and simple..........yes!!!! If you don't want to turn it into a money pit, the only other thing I would add is an alky kit so I can up the boost more. Other than that you have what it takes now to achieve your goals. As I have said before it has been done many times bone stock with high boost so the upgrades you have will make it easier.

 

[Boostnitup]

235/60 - 15

That is exactly what I ran with when "Hot-Air" and they are absolutely worthless for traction. Once they start to spin they turn to "ice" on a drag strip surface... they really kill et.


The money you spend on a water/meth injection system could go towards a dyno set session and put you many feet ahead and reduced et over most of the guys using these systems. I'll state why. Most of these guys are guessing their air/fuel ratio and while they may be avoiding losing head gaskets they are not seeing the maximum of that "stock" turbo with such a setup... it runs out of steam around 17lbs boost depending on the air temperature of injested air.

If you maximize your air/fuel ratio you won't see knock, and you will maximize what you currently have.

If you want to have a quick improvement; run a 75 horse wet shot of nitrous.
I'll put that result up against a water/meth system anyday.

I played with water injection... and went to propain. To each their own...