What's the best way to drop the front 1.5" or so?

Not trying to be a pain guys, but knock it off please. Scott, your car is really nice. Jerremy, you did some of the research on how to set spring heights with MOOG springs. Both are viable but each is different. There's no reason to make it a pissing match since each did his own thing.
 
Glock I bought a 36mm hollow front sway bar from a member off here for like $65. It's thicker stronger and 8lbs lighter. You can spend the money and buy a new one but IMHO I think the front sway bar I got would be just as good for a lot less. It's really the rear sway bar where you need to spend the money as far as sway bars go. Tee one i got is from a WS6 firebird and they have them on the some camaro's too. They come in 34mm hollow and 36mm hollow all you need is bigger bushings. You could probably find one in a junkyard and I think theres also one in the parts for sale section.
 
Glock I bought a 36mm hollow front sway bar from a member off here for like $65. It's thicker stronger and 8lbs lighter. You can spend the money and buy a new one but IMHO I think the front sway bar I got would be just as good for a lot less. It's really the rear sway bar where you need to spend the money as far as sway bars go. Tee one i got is from a WS6 firebird and they have them on the some camaro's too. They come in 34mm hollow and 36mm hollow all you need is bigger bushings. You could probably find one in a junkyard and I think theres also one in the parts for sale section.

Thanks for the tip!
I think I'd like to just do this, springs/shocks, rear springs/shocks, and a PHB, and new wheels. Bushings of course are a must!
 
We have complete bolt-in G-Body suspension products/kits where the shocks are valved to match the springs and would make for a Perfect set up. We also have very reasonable sway bars with patented technology for one of the largest leading manufactures out there today.

Check it out -> GNS


Let us know if we can help.

Scot W.

Thanks Scott.
My car is going to Disco STU this weekend for it's tune-up/methanol injection rebirth.. when it gets back, I'll be happy to take a look in greater depth at these kits.

If I may, do you have a 'minimalist' recomended approach?
As stated above, I think I'd like to just do F&R springs/shocks/swaybar + rear PHB, and bushings all around.

I will never put this car on a track, never... but I'd like to make it handle for driving pleasure.

I'm probably going to run the following tire/wheel setup:
* 17x8" wheel up front with 4" backspace, running 245/45/17 tires with the front end lowered 2".
* 17x9.5" wheels out back w/4.75"BS running 275/40/17 meats. Not sure what drop would be ideal.

I'm probably going to go American black centered torque thrusts... seems to look best with the centers painted black for the price.
 
Thanks for the tip!
I think I'd like to just do this, springs/shocks, rear springs/shocks, and a PHB, and new wheels. Bushings of course are a must!
IMHO if your just buying regular gas shocks and Not coil overs, the Best thing to do is buy a set that is a "Matched" set of shocks & springs because any company who sells their own springs, their shocks are valved to match and this results in better ride and performance.

I seen where you were thinking of the 17" TTT wheels, Keep in mind that those are some Heavy wheels! Less rotating mass the better!! ;)

IMHO if your going to coin up for some fancy one piece wheels you might want to just save up a bit more for a good 3-piece wheel (You get what you pay for). In the end these should be the last set of wheels you will buy for the car. Three piece wheels can easily be sent back to the manufacture to be re-hooped for a different BackSpacing, Narrow the wheel or what ever you need and Most company's will even do this for free since you bought the wheels from them.

This eliminates being stuck with a certian wheel or having to buy two more because you made changes to your car and now realize they don't work!


Just my thoughts..
 
Thanks Scott.
My car is going to Disco STU this weekend for it's tune-up/methanol injection rebirth.. when it gets back, I'll be happy to take a look in greater depth at these kits.

If I may, do you have a 'minimalist' recomended approach?
As stated above, I think I'd like to just do F&R springs/shocks/swaybar + rear PHB, and bushings all around.

I will never put this car on a track, never... but I'd like to make it handle for driving pleasure.

I'm probably going to run the following tire/wheel setup:
* 17x8" wheel up front with 4" backspace, running 245/45/17 tires with the front end lowered 2".
* 17x9.5" wheels out back w/4.75"BS running 275/40/17 meats. Not sure what drop would be ideal.

I'm probably going to go American black centered torque thrusts... seems to look best with the centers painted black for the price.
Sure do, But with what youv'e mentioned above that would be a Perfect start and you will be very pleased with how it handles after.

PS: I appologize or mudding up your thread when I shouldn't have, I am going to offer you 10% off any of our suspension products! Or better yet ANY of our prodcuts if you choose to buy your suspension stuff elsewhere.


SW.
 
IMHO if your just buying regular gas shocks and Not coil overs, the Best thing to do is buy a set that is a "Matched" set of shocks & springs because any company who sells their own springs, their shocks are valved to match and this results in better ride and performance.

I seen where you were thinking of the 17" TTT wheels, Keep in mind that those are some Heavy wheels! Less rotating mass the better!! ;)

IMHO if your going to coin up for some fancy one piece wheels you might want to just save up a bit more for a good 3-piece wheel (You get what you pay for). In the end these should be the last set of wheels you will buy for the car. Three piece wheels can easily be sent back to the manufacture to be re-hooped for a different BackSpacing, Narrow the wheel or what ever you need and Most company's will even do this for free since you bought the wheels from them.

This eliminates being stuck with a certian wheel or having to buy two more because you made changes to your car and now realize they don't work!


Just my thoughts..

Good advice, budget becomes a problem however.
I'm looking for just something better, want to run 17" wheels instead of 15" steel. I know they aren't the lightest, but they are cheaper than having mine refinished even... so price is a concern really more than anything.

I went all out w/the audio, cant afford to do everything else right now. Maybe when I roll it over to 100K miles I'll do a complete frame-off and just go nuts with it all.
 
Sure do, But with what youv'e mentioned above that would be a Perfect start and you will be very pleased with how it handles after.

PS: I appologize or mudding up your thread when I shouldn't have, I am going to offer you 10% off any of our suspension products! Or better yet ANY of our prodcuts if you choose to buy your suspension stuff elsewhere.

SW.

Oh man, no need to apologize, thanks for the discount... I like your setup, but will use something a bit less robust and much less expensive.
 
Good advice, budget becomes a problem however.
I'm looking for just something better, want to run 17" wheels instead of 15" steel. I know they aren't the lightest, but they are cheaper than having mine refinished even... so price is a concern really more than anything.

I went all out w/the audio, cant afford to do everything else right now. Maybe when I roll it over to 100K miles I'll do a complete frame-off and just go nuts with it all.
I understand the budget thing 100% "Been there". I ran the 17" TTT on my last GN and liked them pretty well. Then I got into getting rid of rotating mass..... lol

Just going to those wheels and a nice Low profile tire you will notice a big difference in how it handles. Shocks, Springs and sway bars and you should be all set.


Scot W.
 
Just for some info. I got the 17x9's in front and cut the front springs to lower it one inch. I can get a pic later for ya. It looks really good but....had to cut 1 inch off the bump stop and in a bad bump the right tire will rub the top of the wheel well somewhere for just a second... not cool but the car looks much better. I've got to see where its rubbing and "make some room" somehow.

Good luck
 
Top