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When to upgrade drive shaft.

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V6POWER

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2001
Messages
2,966
At what power level do we need to upgrade drive shafts? I broke my ring and pinion last week at the track and I am concerned that the ds may be next. I just purchased the Brute Force u-joints and will install those before the next track visit. My ds and yokes are stock.

The car has dynoed 410 rwhp on a Mustang dyno with 510 torque.
 
At what power level do we need to upgrade drive shafts? I broke my ring and pinion last week at the track and I am concerned that the ds may be next. I just purchased the Brute Force u-joints and will install those before the next track visit. My ds and yokes are stock.

The car has dynoed 410 rwhp on a Mustang dyno with 510 torque.
Who sells the brute force u-joints? I'm in the same boat sorta. the DS is one thing that i havn't yet upgradded. Scot w.
 
pep boys does and don't get them with the grease fittings
 
I bought them at Advance Auto for $15.48 each. Neapco Brute Force, #23011BF, no grease fitting.
 
I think it is because grease fittings make the u-joint weaker. You want them as solid as possible.
 
I broke axles in the low 11's, pulling low 1.5 60' times. If you are breaking rear-end parts you need to highly consider upgrading the driveshaft, U-joints and yokes.

After I upgraded the rear-end and axles i did run 10.20's and 1.4 60' times. I had upgraded Spicer HD u-joints but a stock driveshaft. I would recommend upgrading the DS before then if you can.

Remember this saying...."safety is cheaper than a funeral"
 
Brute force vs. Spicer

When I was looking for a place to get a new transmission yolk the local drive-shaft shop let me in on some information that may help here. Although the Brute force units do not have grease fittings, the casting for the parts are the same. These units have the grease passages drilled into them and they stop roughly 1/4 inch before breaking though the surface. So basically they are no stronger since the passages cause the weakening. Spicer joints are a solid one piece with no weak points. So if your going to up grade better off going with spicier!

Evaddave
 
Wow, thanks for that info on the Brute Force. I will return them and get Spicer.
 
I bent both my stock axles at the low 12's stock turbo setup (1.6x 60 foots). I have a 3" aluminum dynotech driveshaft with spicer ujoints, plenty of sub 1.5x 60 foots and no problems yet. Had this setup for about 4 years now.
 
I called Dynotech yesterday and the rep. recommended the 3.5" aluminum with 1330 trans. yoke and performance u-joints for $370. How does that sound? My car will do 1.5x 60' times.
 
My lightly modded GN broke the stock rear U-joint and twisted the drive shaft in two pieces a few years ago.

Since then I have installed a 3.5 aluminum drive shaft with spicer joints. Supposedly good to the low 9's, not that I will be going that fast...ever...

It is dynotech shaft. They have them in the correct size so you do not need to measure.
 
V6Racer/Renthorin/d0n 3d/c&cgn---I talked to Mark at PST and his aluminum ds with 1350 trans. yoke and 1350 front u-joints is $399. This shaft comes with 1330 rear u-joints which are just a little stronger than stock ones. If I want to go with 1350 rear u-joints I have to get the 1350 pinion yoke which is about $150 more. Do I need the 1350 pinion yoke/rear u-joints or will my stock pinion yoke with new 1330 rear u-joints be OK for my power level (410 rwhp/510 tq.)?
 
1330 or 1350

Well when i was looking to upgrade mine I was wondering the same thing. From what I was told, the 1330 would hold up very well in our cars. Mainly because of how the power comes on. With a SBC or BB all the torque is there from the go, ours builds up, (unless a transbrake is involved.) So the shaft is never shocked like it would be in a non-turbo car. I have not upgrade my shaft as of yet. I just replaced my transmission yolk, (it was twisted,) and put spicier u-joints in. But i plan to upgrade this summer.

Evaddave
 
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