Where's the power?

[TURBOELKY]

use the jack and wood method for the trans mount. putting shocks makes a difference, but wait till you put new springs in there you'll think its a new car!! your boost is where it was factory, so all is well. wait till you get that adjustable silinoid, and some good gas! like 100 unleaded and 22psi on that stock turbo, you'll be happy about time you get that boost gauge, let me go think about what I can nag you on now.......

 

[graza002]

Hey Andrew. Thanks for the offers of support, man. Truth is I normally find myself running into the garage spontaneously to get some work done in between all the family and home stuff. I actually sprinted out there in my tighty whities one night last week. When I looked out the garage door and saw the frightenend looks on my neighbors faces, I went back in and got some working clothes on...some people are so intolerant....

One of these days when I have some major work to do, I'll definitely give you a hollar. Likewise if you need a hand let me know....I'll stand there and clap while you do all the work!

Ha!

Tim,

Its cool, I just know how it is being new to these cars and being left kinda in the dark. Just give me a ring and I will see how I can help ya.

As far as mounting the boost gauge on the A-pillar goes; (provided you didnt cut down the size of the vacuum hose) its pretty easy. Just run the vacuum hose under the dash and then run the hose in between the dash and the door frame (you can hide the hose between the small gap). Sorry if what I said makes no sense. You can use my car as a reference, I can snap a pix or you can stop by on th way home from work. Its up to you.

Hope this helps...

 

[meanchicken]

use the jack and wood method for the trans mount. putting shocks makes a difference, but wait till you put new springs in there you'll think its a new car!! your boost is where it was factory, so all is well. wait till you get that adjustable silinoid, and some good gas! like 100 unleaded and 22psi on that stock turbo, you'll be happy about time you get that boost gauge, let me go think about what I can nag you on now.......

Thanks, momma.:biggrin:

One correction. My vacuum at idle (825 rpm) in park is about 20-21. Previously, I was looking at the gauge when the car was in gear and idling and thought it was 23-24. The vacuum was actually around 16-17...I was reading the ticks from 20 on the vacuum scale from left to right rather than right to left.:redface:

Anyone have advice on how I can rout the gauge vacuum line and wires up to the pillar mount location? I'm not thrilled about having to look down to the floor to see the gauge while accelerating at WOT.

Tim

 

[Underboost]

Just run the wire and vac line up the side of the dash and on the out side of the A pillar. Your gauge pod will set down far enough so you won't see the electrical tape rapping. If you did cut your vacuum line to small I have some. I'm right around the corner. I drilled 4 holes and used rivets.

 

[meanchicken]

Thanks, guys.

Pillar Pods...who sells them?
I went through all the vendors here and could not find them. Found the console gauge pod and the panel that goes over the glove box....but the pillar pods were hiding from me.

Also...I'm thinking about taking a heat gun to this vacuum hose to straighten it's happy @$$ out. Things all coiled up. I'm pretty sure I still have enough length to reach the pillar, but I did loose several inches when I kinked the coiled line while pulling it through the fire wall.

Tim

 

[TURBOELKY]

Thanks, guys.

Pillar Pods...who sells them?
I went through all the vendors here and could not find them. Found the console gauge pod and the panel that goes over the glove box....but the pillar pods were hiding from me.

Also...I'm thinking about taking a heat gun to this vacuum hose to straighten it's happy @$$ out. Things all coiled up. I'm pretty sure I still have enough length to reach the pillar, but I did loose several inches when I kinked the coiled line while pulling it through the fire wall.

Tim

yup, if your not careful, you can loose several inches when you pull it.. be careful

 

[meanchicken]

yup, if your not careful, you can loose several inches when you pull it.. be careful

LOL!
Momma's know everything....I guess as long as I don't go blind, shooting anyones eye out, or growing hair on my palms, I'm not pulling too hard.

 

[Underboost]

Always make sure you have a big enough hole before you start jamming that hose in there. You don't want any kinks in it! :biggrin:

 

[Junior Samples]

Always make sure you have a big enough hole before you start jamming that hose in there. You don't want any kinks in it! :biggrin:

or anymore children...LOL

Back from Orlando and damn its cold back home

 

[Underboost]

or anymore children...LOL

Back from Orlando and damn its cold back home

Were you at PRI? I mist it this year I've been going to that show since it was in Indiana. Did you end up going into Downtown Orlando? I love that bar Mako's

 

[Junior Samples]

Brent,

No, I got place down there but i did meet up with the central gn club on sat night and hung out with them...great bunch

 

[scojack_2001]

Boost gauge is installed now. Since I don't have a pod yet, I set it in my console tray forward of the shifter. I'm getting about 23-24 of vacuum at idle (I need to recheck to make sure I was reading it right). At WOT it's reading 15 lbs of boost. When I first nail it, it seems to spike to about 17 lbs, but then quickly settles at 15 lbs.

I'm thinking about doing a pillar mount, but how the bejesus do I route the vacuum line up there?

I also installed the rear shocks. Was going to do the trans mount and front shocks too, but ran out of clock. Had to get off the garage floor before the wife threatened to fire me.

Man those rear shocks were shot! So are the fronts, but now with the new shocks in back and the old bad ones up front, I can cruise the blvd like like an esse, holmes. When I roll over a good bump, the front end is all bouncy like I have hydraulics, and the rear is stable now.

I'll try to get under the front to change those out this week.

On the trans mount, I was eyeballing it. Seems the only way to support the the trans while swapping the mount is with a floor jack and some plywood under the pan...or am I missing the obvious?
Maybe use a block to support the trans at the pan lip instead???

Hey Andrew. Thanks for the offers of support, man. Truth is I normally find myself running into the garage spontaneously to get some work done in between all the family and home stuff. I actually sprinted out there in my tighty whities one night last week. When I looked out the garage door and saw the frightenend looks on my neighbors faces, I went back in and got some working clothes on...some people are so intolerant....

One of these days when I have some major work to do, I'll definitely give you a hollar. Likewise if you need a hand let me know....I'll stand there and clap while you do all the work!

Ha!

I also replaced my originals a while back. The springs and shocks were so bad I could push down on the bumper and hit the bump stop... All is well now with new progressive rear springs and KYB shocks. I got the stuff cheap, and Im on a budget; so it worked out well. I also need to the cat hanger and probably a trans mount, with all the oil coming out of the rear main seal...

I still got ro redo the front suspension as well, but Im getting there.

 

[meanchicken]

I'm fortunate that all the bushings and ball joints appear to be in good shape.

Any of you guys with pillar pods wanna tell my where you bought yours?

Are these typically universal fit items?

I think I found one for the 87 GN from VDO that I can get through NAPA, but....just curious if there's any others.

 

[jhanson1750]

It's been a while but if you are trying to find a single pillar pod I still have the one in this pic. Yea installation of the line is a P.I.T.A. but worth it in my opinion. This one was installed to high up for me. When I replaced it with the double I looked at it @ 2inches lower and I think it would look better. The double I got has a better finish on the edges. But it's free so just let me know. Jon Hanson

 

[Junior Samples]

Tim,

I got mine through Postons but it is the stick on type and I have seen another on here from a vender that attaches via pillar screw and is complete pillar.

Also note with pillar: when i added my caspers knock gauge to it, I could NOT read any lights due to angle unless i leaned my head over and up...ummm no thanks so i got pod and mounted that to my steering coluum.

Mike

 

[jhanson1750]

I've seen one that was like your talkin about bad angle and all. I will check and see where I got the double pod to see if they can get a single. If you look the edge is MUCH cleaner on the double. Also it uses plastic push pins that look a lot better than the silver screw. That kind of thing makes all the diffrence to me. I figure as little time as I get to spend in my Gn I want everything perfect. Jon

 

[Junior Samples]

yeah i got the double one just like that but for the life of me i couldnt read that knock gauge, i have seen a full pillar mount somewhere...in fact i thought it replaced the oem pillar with twin hole

 

[jhanson1750]

Yea I've see them somewhere on here. There was some issue with fitment at the windshield and can crack it on occasions if I remember correctly. Jon

 

[Junior Samples]

well since my windshield likes to moan and squeel....hmm wonder why...

My postons 2 hole works for now although cheesey looking

 

[meanchicken]

Hey, Jon.
Are you able to read your gauges OK with that double pillar?
Is it a postons?
Eventually I'll be grabbing an electric fuel pressure gauge and an oil pressure gauge, so one of them will be going on the pillar along with my boost gauge.

Mike,
Do you have a pic of your gauge mount at the steering column?

Guys,
By the way...I finally added some more fuel in all gears via the ScanMaster tonight. Took care of the remaining knock I was getting at WOT. If you recall, I was still getting some occasional knock retard up in the 2.0 range when going WOT from about 35mph. I set the Blm at 150 through the ScanMaster. Sound about right?
I first tried 145, but still got a little bit of knock retard (1.4) with O2 mv at about 780 when going WOT from about 35mph. So I moved up to 150, and so far that seems to have done it. O2 mv up in the 790 range.

I can also do some timing adjustments through the ScanMaster. What timing adjustment is recommended in order to pick up a little performance?