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Which headgaskets?

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TURBO 6

Beer Snob
Staff member
Joined
May 24, 2001
Messages
2,475
Well, I finally blew a headgasket after a couple of years. I have been running the stock gaskets with the TTY bolts. This is the first time I tried to run high boost and it let go before the 1/8 mile. The only knock on the run was 4.5*. I think the gasket was weak after all the abuse.
My question is: What gasket is recommended for high boost? I know some like the steel shims but I don't know if I want to deal with milling the intake. Does it have to be done?
What are other alternatives to the stock gaskets? I ran almost three years on these so I am thinking I should use them again. I need something to handle over 25 psi. I do plan on using ARP bolts this time also. What do you guys think?
 
steel shims will increase your compression ratio and you will have to have much higher octane per # boost. I would go with the stockers again. Steel shims =.018" stock composite=.060". Stockers are your safety net. Stock composites with ARP bolts.
 
Cutt, do you have the part number fot the fel pro gaskets?
231, I may stick with the stockers. Definately ARP bolts this time.
 
Re: Arp

Originally posted by Lee Thompson
Why not use ARP studs?

Well, I can address that issue, why many of us prefer ARP bolts over ARP studs! It means not having to pull the engine just to do a head gasket change. I've only had to do two HG changes over the last 15 years, but I'm sure glad I didn't have to pull the engine to do it.
 
Re: Re: Arp

Originally posted by TurboDave


Well, I can address that issue, why many of us prefer ARP bolts over ARP studs! It means not having to pull the engine just to do a head gasket change. I've only had to do two HG changes over the last 15 years, but I'm sure glad I didn't have to pull the engine to do it.
Dave,
I have never been able to understand this statement. The new ARP studs I got for my two motors have hex keys cut inside the ends for removal and you can always jack the motor up. Shouldn't be a problem.
 
Re: Re: Arp

Originally posted by TurboDave


Well, I can address that issue, why many of us prefer ARP bolts over ARP studs! It means not having to pull the engine just to do a head gasket change. I've only had to do two HG changes over the last 15 years, but I'm sure glad I didn't have to pull the engine to do it.

My vote is for stock 86-87 h/g's and arp studs . I have never blown a h/g in 15 years.


As noted you can change the headgaskets with studs and not pull the motor . I have done it just to see.(sold my ported heads)

Also I would not change headgaskets without pulling the motor(unless I was @ the track or something ) You can do a MUCH better job with the eng out and these cars are a breeze to pull the motor in .

With studs you get much better torque , with bolts you must torque againts the threads and the goop in the block (not good)
 
Alright, studs it is, so what's the part number and where to get them?
 
After blowing MANY head gaskets (felpro's and the wrong GM gaskets once), Jack Cotton told me he highly recommends the stock (correct) head gasket. And they have worked GREAT for me ever since. I would go with GM gaskets (for TR application, not NA 3.8!!) and ARP bolts. I was actually able to change head gaskets on my car with the motor in and studs once (with the heater boxstill in the car), but it was NOT fun at all!!!!!!!! I've since removed the heater box and it would be a snap now. BUT, I would just ge tthe ARP bolts instead for a car with the heater installed. Plus they are less expensive as a bonus. :)

Derrick
 
ARP Bolts, ARP sealant, Stock GM head gasket (Victor) They have worked the best on my car with iron heads.;)
 
Buick TR, I have been running those gaskets in the past. I need something that's gonna handle more than 25 psi. :eek: I am not playing anymore.
 
single steel shim and mill intake and you'll be done with the problem.

i havent milled my intake yet to match since i wanted to try it out with the higher compression first but will be milling one for it cause it runs great much more responsive and im running 24# boost with 20 degrees timing in street chip on 93 octane..:eek:

but it has alot to do with big turbo not making alot of heat plus big big intercooler.

oh yea for you guys worried about preload on the lifter im still using stock pushrods and lots of preload on the lifters and no problems at all with it
 
TURBO 6

Well I'm about to test them with 25 lbs of boost and a shot of Nitrous (50-75) in a couple of weeks. :D
 
Red's thanks for the suggestion, but I don't want to go through all the trouble and blow something else. I'd rather change headgaskets than something else. I am looking for a gasket that will withstand 25 psi or more without detonation.
 
Originally posted by TURBO 6
Red's thanks for the suggestion, but I don't want to go through all the trouble and blow something else. I'd rather change headgaskets than something else. I am looking for a gasket that will withstand 25 psi or more without detonation.
Studs and 1007 Wire-Locs with grooves cut in your heads. More high boost people use these than any other and they work! They will blow but it is usually when the tune is way out and more than a few times.
 
Originally posted by TURBO 6
Red's thanks for the suggestion, but I don't want to go through all the trouble and blow something else. I'd rather change headgaskets than something else. I am looking for a gasket that will withstand 25 psi or more without detonation.

yea stay out of detination and you dont have to worry.

im currently running 24# on 93 octane and no knock.

who needs alky???


when i went from stacked steels to factory 86-87 head gasket i went up in 30-32# boost range on then without blowing one but that was on 116 vp fuel and got 1 degree knock at 32#

i wanted to try the single to raise compression slightly and havent found any drawbacks to it other than intake not lining up without being milled.
 
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