You can type here any text you want

who has made a oil prime tool?

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!
Maybe this is a dumb quesiton, but can you prime the motor by just cranking it without plugs installed?

Yes you can. If everything is well lubricated, it is no different than turning the motor over by hand and will build oil pressure. Better have good battery and good starter though as it takes quite a bit of cranking before pressure comes up.
 
Maybe this is a dumb quesiton, but can you prime the motor by just cranking it without plugs installed?

That's what I do every spring, before start up(I disconnect the fuel pump relay too). I bought a SBC primer tool when I assembled the engine though. I count my time more valuable than the $15 I spent on the tool.
 
It's been a few years, but- I thought I got mine at Autozone. Looks just like that one from Harbor Freight though.
 
Maybe this thread should be put under the how to section.It helped me a lot.Thanks for the replies.
 
I just made one tonight and thought I'd share...

I have several used cam sensors laying around, so I cannibalized one for this project.

All I did was:

1) pull off the sensor and interrupter ring.
2) knock out roll pin and remove drive gear.
3) slide driveshaft out of housing.
4) cut housing just below halfway between hold-down surface and underside of cap mounting surface. (See pics)
By cutting in this location, you can save/reuse the upper bushing. Just drive it out of the piece you cut off.
5) drilled out the upper housing bore with 5/8" drill bit to accept bushing from part that was cut off.
6) installed upper bushing and reamed to fit with a 1/2" drill bit.

It works like a friggin champ. :D

The shaft is 1/2" dia... so you WILL need a 1/2" drill to drive it. ;)


DSC072622.jpg


DSC072602.jpg


DSC072612.jpg
 
...about the messing around part.

Regardless of what kind of priming tool used, home-made or otherwise... it's still better than trying to fill lines and crank the motor.

A few years ago I had a hell of a time getting a prime on my T-type after putting another motor in... I had been dumping oil in the cooler lines and everything else. I bet I spent more than an hour trying to get it to prime.


Just last night after making my new tool, all it took was about 10 seconds with a drill. I pumped all the lifters up, turned the motor a few times, etc... she is good to go now.

I'll never try it any other way. :D
 
There's no doubt that a priming tool is of great value for getting oil into your system. The, "messing around" part is taking the time to make one, when they are so stinking cheap to buy(like I said, unless you're REALLY bored).
 
There's no doubt that a priming tool is of great value for getting oil into your system. The, "messing around" part is taking the time to make one, when they are so stinking cheap to buy(like I said, unless you're REALLY bored).

Making one from junk parts is free... and if you need one "right now" there is no faster way than making it right there in the garage. :D
 
There's no doubt that a priming tool is of great value for getting oil into your system. The, "messing around" part is taking the time to make one, when they are so stinking cheap to buy(like I said, unless you're REALLY bored).

Yeah but sometimes the auto stores arent open at 11pm at night when your still working on the car, it only takes a few minutes to make one if you have a spare distributor laying around.

I made mine because i didnt want to spend 13.00 at advanced for a quality priming tool.

Now i have 2, the 15 year old one i bought at western auto, and the 0.00 one i made from something i was going to throw away.

What about the cam sensor setting tool?
35.00 for the caspers unit + shipping or
1.50 for a 9volt battery and a led light?

BW
 
I knew I would need that priming tool the week before I re-installed the engine, and took the 10 minutes needed to go get it ahead of time. Just lucky I suppose;) . Actually, I got a set of three for $15 that covered V6 and V8, GM and Ford engines. Nowdays a set costs $10 at Harbor Freight, but they're from china. I've never needed a tool to set a sensor or distributor. I've always brought the #1 piston up to top dead center(watching the timing mark too), on it's compression stroke, and exactly marked the position of the interrupter(or rotor). With a new sensor; I duplicate the position and mark the new one. Reverse that on assembly- and I've been good to go(minor timing touch up with distributors). At least it's been working that way for the last 45 years anyway.
 
Back
Top