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Robert Walton

Proud to be an Infidel
Joined
Jun 1, 2004
Messages
147
Is it O.K. to run a wide band O2 on the street for extended time periods ? I ask 'cause over in Lightning world it was forbotten to do anything other than tune with them.

:confused:
 
A properly designed one last for 10s of thousands of miles on pump gas.
 
how long would you expect a WB O2 to last in a race car running leaded C14 or C16?

1 year or 5 years (assume 50 passes per year)?

What is the common failure mode? (i.e. reads richer or leaner that it should? reads correct but 'slow', etc.)

Alex
 
Originally posted by aekrot
how long would you expect a WB O2 to last in a race car running leaded C14 or C16?
1 year or 5 years (assume 50 passes per year)?
What is the common failure mode? (i.e. reads richer or leaner that it should? reads correct but 'slow', etc.)

Lead is only part of the problem, in a race car the engine specs are all looser, so oil is also passed along in the exhaust. The oil can be as if not more of a problem then the lead. Both coat the actual sensing element. And another reason to mount it somewhat downstream is so that at low engine speeds, ie crank, and first spinning up, the *oil* coagulates somewhat before traveling down the pipe, and possibly hitting the sensor.

Cold start enrichments are another WB killer. I've been kind of doing a survey, and it seems like well over 90% of the failures are reported at startup. Of the ones that I've seem die (normally from a poor heater design) they failed while driving. So it would seem somewhat logical that asking the sensor to go from ambient air temp to 850dC in 30 seconds, is kind of a tough job, now, emerse the sensor in an excessive amount of fuel and oil, while warming up, and it's life span will be shorter.

The most common failure is them just not working.
Seond is a false lean, which isn't too bad.
BUT, I have 3 that failed rich, which isn't good.

Slow, might be a matter of just minutes before failure, and some seem to last along time, just being slow.
 
so I guess that sucking a few ounces of Marvell Mystery oil in a vacuum line prior to trailering my car has been hard on my WBO2 sensor... crap...

would heating the sensor with a MAP gas tourch to burn off the oil hurt the sensor?

do you think this might help 'clean it off'?
 
Originally posted by aekrot
so I guess that sucking a few ounces of Marvell Mystery oil in a vacuum line prior to trailering my car has been hard on my WBO2 sensor... crap...
would heating the sensor with a MAP gas tourch to burn off the oil hurt the sensor?
do you think this might help 'clean it off'?

Actually MM burns rather *clean*.
But, I wouldn't bother doing that, unless you removed the sensor.

Nope, the sensor is deep inside the shell, and you'd likely due more harm then good, IMO.

Most the failed sensors have either a white *fuzz* growing off the sensor, or what looks like gray-never-cease over the sensor. In additon to some being cracked from a poor heater design, and the ocassion *mystery* failure. Thou, my sampling is limited to about a dozen or so autopsies.
 
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