Has anybody ever had any success using heavy amounts of alky and race gas? I never had any luck with alky and race gas at the same time. So if you use alky as a major part of your intercooling are you then forced to stick with pump gas? I love pump gas and alky for street driving and farting around at the track. I'm not real comfortable trying to MAX out on pump gas however and I know there are alot of people out there that feel the same way.
Marty:
I have considered the possibility of trying to take a few rows off the bottom of a stock location stretch. I have wondered if a good compromise between ground clearance and IC effectiveness can be achieved. I think if I would of had another 1.5" of clearance that my BGC stretch would have only scraped "once in awhile". I have a nice TIG welder and I can do aluminum welding. I would be interested in welding up a test IC. I'm not a very experienced TIG welder though and cutting lose on a nice V4 would make me nervous. I would feel more comfortable adding a couple of rows to a cheap old stock GN IC. Another idea I had would be to remove and modify stock end tanks and put them on a new core. Look here:
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Intercoolers/Intercoolers.htm
The problem is the core that's only 2" taller than stock is only rated for 475 HP. Which is part number 703520-6001. Just to get up into a 650 hp core you're looking at 6 inches taller than a stocker. At the bottom of that page you can see the liquid cores, thier small demensions, and thier insanely high HP ratings for thier size. The 1000 hp liquid is less than half the size of the 475 HP air/air core.
MSRP on the 475 hp air/air core is: $414.75
MSRP on the 1000 hp water/air core is: $364.88
The power in these motors is in the heads.. then cam.. match a turbo to those.. you will have a fast car.
Amen! If you guys ever had a set of ported heads and set of unported heads sitting side by side with the valves removed..wow! The bowl area just below the heads of valves makes a stock intercooler neck look like a 3" fire hose. The whole concept of making these cars make more power can be broken down into two basic catagories.
1. have the motor flow more cubic feet of air (heads, cam ,exhaust, better breathing stuff)
2. put more oxygen molecules in the same amount of cubic feet. ( more boost, better intercooling, nitrous)
Pursuing the "flow more air" concept is by far the best choice and will make an all around stronger running motor. Trying to put more air into the same space can fall into the "diminishing returns" concept fairly easy, but can really help make up for a lack of "high flow" hardware. I went 11.16 and 11.17 @ 121mph back to back (hot lapped) launching at 3# off the foot brake. This was a high milage bone stock long block set up. The stock long block basically put me in the "more oxygen in the same space" concept. I would have loved to switch to ported heads and cam and try a high flow and high density set up but I felt the power level would have been to high for my old motor to take. Hell I would have loved to have another crack at a track with the old set up.
I guess the main point I would like to try to make is that MOST of the guys who go really fast are addressing both the high flow and the high density concepts. If they make the list and are not addressing both areas then they are holding themselfs back or making up for it in other ways. My set up was a prime example: high boost and radical intercooling to bandaid over or cover up a lack pure air flow. My new motor will now be radical from a flow and density stand point. It looks like I should wind up with a TTA that will run deep into the 9's at around 20 pounds of boost. My motor will be more radical than my buddies GN and he went 151mph at 23 pounds! I realize my pistons won't be stock but I assure you guys they will be "round ones" just like Razor's
Jason
