Will it work?

Priz

New Member
I had been told previously that I didn't have the correct tv cable, so I got a new one, but it took 14 clicks(out about 3/4 of an inch) to get it shifting right(using feel and the GM chart for a BR coded tranny, ie 1-2 14mph, 2-3 22mph, 3-4 43mph.....mine is now 1-2 14-15mph, 2-3 20-22mph, and 3-4 43-45mph at very light throttle). The tranny was bought from someone by Level 10 for me as the tranny I had sent them was the wrong one (they said no matter what they did, it was the wrong tranny and wouldn't last). The tranny they got me was supposed to be a correct tranny. They did a stage 3 rebuild. I can't remember what all was put in it, I'd like to say a 10-vane pump and a billet servo, to say the least. The servo does appear to be billet. I checked the tag, it says BY on it, underneath that is 8308-16-82. I checked some books and it seems that the tranny, atleast the case, is out of an 82-84 with a 4.1-4 in it. The valvebody, I noticed while draining the fluid, has BO8 or B08 stamped on it. I can't find any info on the valvebody stampings. Is the valvebody out of the same 82-84 with a 4.1? And the bigger question, will this tranny hold up? I have been told, by Level 10, among others, that unless you have a BRF tranny valvebody(BR3 I believe), which is the only difference with a TR tranny I was told, your tranny won't last. If you absolutely can't find a BRF tranny, then one out of a Monte SS will work, just not as good. The tranny seems fine, but I'd just like to know what I have and if I need to keep my eyes out for a BRF tranny. If there is that much of a difference, could I just find/buy a BRF(BR3) valvebody and put it in, (instead of a whole tranny) and then everything would be ok? I wonder about the "gotta have a BRF" since I just saw a 2004r for sale here that was in a 10second car or built for a 10sec car that has a TAF valvebody...or is that from an 86 TR or a reman'd unit that was deemed a replacement for the BR3? I really appreciate any input on this, thanks,
Priz
 
I just went through this myself. The BRF trans used in the 86-87 turbo cars has a unique valve body (coded BR3 with a pink paint mark), this valve body also has 2 pressure switches as opposed to only one used on all the other TH2004r's. The governor is unique and is required with this valve body or the trans will never shift. Also the servo on the side of the trans is larger. The last piece is negligible since most people upgrade to a billet servo that is even larger than the forementioned one.
The 89 Turbo Trans Ams had the same basic trans, but these are relatively uncommon since they only made approx 1500 cars. The valve body/trans was code TAF (I believe) on them.
Other than the items I mentioned, everything esle is the same. If you started with a trans from a Monte SS, then the same basic upgrades to the pump, forward drum, input shaft, etc would have to be made to maintain durability.
 
I never thought about the 89 TTA tranny, so that would explain the TAF I saw for sale here. But that still leads me to think that I had better get a BRF (BR3) or TAF, if I could find one. Is there any other way or ways that I can check if the valvebody I have is correct other than the BR3 stamping? Can I visually see the two pieces you mentioned? Or any other pieces, like the governer, when I have the pan off, or do I have to pull it apart? I'm guessing that the valvebody itself, the actual piece of metal, has a part number or markings on it, but I think that they would all be the same for a 2004r, just the internal pieces are different?? While I'm not positive, I'd think that Level 10 changed all the other parts that are common failures with good parts, ie it's got a billet servo, but like they had told me, if it isn't the right tranny to begin with or have the right valvebody, it just won't last and will never be totally right. Not to mention, it really is annoying having to guess where the tv cable should be set to, instead of just being able to go with the GM recommended setting.I really need some help with this. Thanks for any ideas or advice,
Scott
 
The pressure switches are readily visible with the pan removed. One is screwed in from the bottom and the other is screwed into the side of the valve body. There arent any casting id #s per say on them as people pointed out to me. A standard 2004r valve body visibly looks the same. The difference is the pressure switch that is screwed into the side has a tapped hole. On a regular 2004r it is just drilled and has a plug in it. The governor is relatively easy to id. You must drop the aluminum housing/cover next to the valve body to get to it. It should look like the one in these pics http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/pictureguides/tranny/transguide.html
As far as I know, the external controls are what differentiates these transmissions (i.e. valve body, governor, servo sizes, etc)
Everything else is the same. Bruce or one of the other guys would probably be the ones to ask as far as whether starting with a non-BRF core will be ok. I can't see why it wouldnt be as long as the shifts aren't too slow and soft and the line pressures too low.
 
Calibration is different. Brf, TTa.... If you mix and match stuff you will have problems. Anything can be made to work givin the time, money and patience.
and repeated VB r&r's

Bruce
WE4
www.ptsnctb.com
 
So it basically does come down to the vb. So does that mean that you could literally take ANY 2004r, throw a BRF valvebody(or TTA or BQ8) and then have a good TR tranny shop rebuild, and then be set?I agree that time, money, and patience can fix anything, but in my case, I've been dealing with the tranny aspect of my car since June of 1999, and I've probably spent close to $4000, and those two added up pretty much kill my patience. But what can you do? I'll just keep going until I get it right, just may take forever and cost me more than I paid for the car, which now that I said that, I am getting close, only paid $6000 for the car, damn! I could have been well on my way to another car or a stage 2 buildup, or actually get all the little things I've wanted to do to the car, but oh well. Thanks again guys,
Scott
 
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