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Wrapping the down pipe

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I only wrapped my Downpipe from the flange to just below the ac box. Just to try and keep some of the heat down around the a/c lines.

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You also have to make sure to pull the round wire loom tward the bottom of the heater box up away from the DP. There is a difference in wraps, just like everything else .Some want you to soak in water so its easier to pull around. The titanium pulls around the bends very well,and they show them taking a propane torch to it. At DEI the blanket is about $230 and wrap $62,plus SS ties. Regular header wrap is cheaper than DEI Titanium product but wont take the heat as well.
 
Yea, my headers and crossover are coated, but was trying to get my downpipe to lessen it's radiated heat to the engine bay. I want a cool engine bay if I can help it. I'll look in and check for leaks. Maybe I'll only wrap some of the dp, who knows. :)
 
Blew a radiator has the anti freeze soaked into the heat rap when the hood was opened it ignited like a gas fire. Good thing the car had an extinguisher in it or I would no longer own it .
.......

That's interesting I did not know antifreeze was flammable........

I blew a lower hose at the track when the head lifted....coolant everywhere....no fire.......the car got loose and almost put me in the wall...4 times

If your coolant did ignite it would have done so much fast on a bare metal header pipe than a wrapped one.......surface temps on bare metal will be much hotter than the surface temps of a wrapped pipe......hence the reason for wrapping the pipes:cool:

The GN I had years ago got hit in the front and it broke the alky tank and it splashed on the headers.....I did not have them wrapped at the time.......instant fire!

I tend to believe it would not have burst into flames if it were wrapped.....with a much lower surface temp it would be harder for it to.

Hell I had the return fuel line rupture right where it exits the frame on the driver side.......it was spraying raw fuel directly on the header :eek: ...........I had them wrapped and I had been driving so they were hot.............no fire.........

From what I have seen first hand........wrapping is the tits for multiple reasons;)
 
You also can take the rear hood seal that runs along the firewall off. Go to the junk yard and get another one off of a g body , and cut 3 little pieces (so the hood cant rub) ,and space 1 on each end and 1 in the center.I took mine off completely,doesnt rub.
 
Redc5 stated that he had a small engine fire ,didnt say what started it but a suspect flammable liquid got onto wrap...Redc5 and I didnt say antifreeze Amelio.
 
Thats why I went to AN lines and fittings and got rid of the Saginaw fittings . I hated replacing the o-rings also didnt like the step down (restriction inside the fitting .
 
You also can take the rear hood seal that runs along the firewall off. Go to the junk yard and get another one off of a g body , and cut 3 little pieces (so the hood cant rub) ,and space 1 on each end and 1 in the center.I took mine off completely,doesnt rub.

Already have that seal deleted :)
 
You also can take the rear hood seal that runs along the firewall off. Go to the junk yard and get another one off of a g body , and cut 3 little pieces (so the hood cant rub) ,and space 1 on each end and 1 in the center.I took mine off completely,doesnt rub.

The seal not intended to be the rub point.
The 3 adj bumpers are what keeps the hood off the cowl.
You can make a little metal "lip" that fits at the inner end of the fresh air inlet, cut & wrap the hood seal from the original pass side location, toward and around the lip. That will prevent a good % of under hood heat from entering the pass compartment.
 
Plus that area being ventilated won't let the heat out, it's a high pressure area.
 
I'm sure you've seen a cowl induction hood on a chevelle, camaro, or mustang. The opening is at the rear of the hood at the base of the windshield. This is a high pressure area that provides cool air in force with a hood like that.
Same can be said for our cars but with out the direct shot to the air filters.
http://www.ask.com/question/cowl-induction-hoods

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Yep. The air that goes over the header panel packs up against the windshield. That area at the windshield wipers goes up in pressure (greater than ambient) as speed increases.
 
That was a trick that Red told me he used on Janes car .I did it on my car it runs 170-175 at most, I dont have any cooling problems.
 
So that little gap where the hood rubber seals, has air being forced INto it, rather that letting air out?
 
Forced is a strong word, but yes, the pressure there is higher than ambient. Fluid flow is always from high pressure to lower pressure.
 
I see. So if there's air coming in from the bottom of the front end, and that little gap in back, where does it end up?
 
So that little gap where the hood rubber seals, has air being forced INto it, rather that letting air out?

The psi differential is there only at racing speeds. For 99+% of TR driving, the fan wash psi is higher than the windshield base psi.
 
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