STEP BY STEP ENGINE REBUILD!

So i took the heads off here they are! If you guys can tell me if there stock if they look like they have a problem all your input is well apreciated!
a4yqyber.jpg
ypa3y3ud.jpg
epurazun.jpg
many7une.jpg
da2ahahe.jpg
uvuzypa2.jpg


So let me know guys and gals!


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They look clean. Can't see anything wrong with them, but I'm on my phone. Picture of intake side? Maybe they are ported.

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Heres the water pump

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Took the cam sensor out!
I marked the damper to the timing tab and marked the cam sensor to the block!
Can i put it back the same way???

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Next took the oil pan off!
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Here it is with the pan off!
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Now took the rear main cap to reveal my problem the thrust washer on the crank is gone!
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Can you guys tell me if these are stock rods?

By the way they are diamond pistons it stamped under the piston drp 60!
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Now the rods!

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And now is this crank original?

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Thanks for all your input guys!


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^and had ARP bolts installed. If you're lucky the head bolts are ARP too and you won't have to buy a set.

Your rear cap isn't where the thrust bearing is located. The heads are stock 8445 castings with an exhaust leak and aftermarket springs (that may or may not be any good)

Toss the water pump and get a new one, they're too cheap to reuse. Inspect the water pump bolts carefully and look for extreme scaling and thread degradation. Since they go into water some of them can get nasty nasty. The last thing you want is to seize a long bolt into the WP and timing cover.

From what it looks like, someone in the past rebuild a stock engine, added ARP rod bolts, and diamond pistons. Then put it back together.

I would pay CLOSE attention to the lobes on the cam and see if any of them are shorter than the others. Also clean the bottom of the tappets and spin them on a piece of glass. If they aren't flattend, they will spin like a weeble-wobble. If they sit flat, you need to pay EXTRA EXTRA EXTRA attention cleaning the block. EVERY nook and cranny ESP behind the galley plugs.
 
^and had ARP bolts installed. If you're lucky the head bolts are ARP too and you won't have to buy a set.

Your rear cap isn't where the thrust bearing is located. The heads are stock 8445 castings with an exhaust leak and aftermarket springs (that may or may not be any good)

Toss the water pump and get a new one, they're too cheap to reuse. Inspect the water pump bolts carefully and look for extreme scaling and thread degradation. Since they go into water some of them can get nasty nasty. The last thing you want is to seize a long bolt into the WP and timing cover.

From what it looks like, someone in the past rebuild a stock engine, added ARP rod bolts, and diamond pistons. Then put it back together.

I would pay CLOSE attention to the lobes on the cam and see if any of them are shorter than the others. Also clean the bottom of the tappets and spin them on a piece of glass. If they aren't flattend, they will spin like a weeble-wobble. If they sit flat, you need to pay EXTRA EXTRA EXTRA attention cleaning the block. EVERY nook and cranny ESP behind the galley plugs.
I do have arp head bolts and what do you call the part of the crank in the back that slots into the block?


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Talking about that lip that's back there? No idea what that's called.

Your thrust bearing is at the top of this picture...
 
Not sure if that 60 on the pistons means it's 60 over. If so the block have been bored to the max.
 
So i took the heads off here they are! If you guys can tell me if there stock if they look like they have a problem all your input is well apreciated!
a4yqyber.jpg
ypa3y3ud.jpg
epurazun.jpg
many7une.jpg
da2ahahe.jpg
uvuzypa2.jpg


So let me know guys and gals!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Lay a straight edge across those valve stems. You want them very close since rockers are not adjustable. Or you will need lots of different length pushrods. If you get a valve job tell the machine shop all stem heights need to be very very close.
 
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