Alky Vs Racegas!!!
- Thread starter white88montess
- Start date
for got to mention, I run 27-30#'s w/ the alchy 23/21* on the street.
on pump gas?
for got to mention, I run 27-30#'s w/ the alchy 23/21* on the street.
Same here! 28#, 23/21 degrees, on the "Best 'o the best".........
..........Sams club 91
I like the gas but have been thinking of alky for street action for no other reason than cost....
No flame here man but the plate controls air to the rear cylinders to richen them up, with that theory in mind...if the knock sensor was in the front you would decrease the likely hood of detecting knock of a rear cylinder lean condition.
No flame here man but the plate controls air to the rear cylinders to richen them up, with that theory in mind...if the knock sensor was in the front you would decrease the likely hood of detecting knock of a rear cylinder lean condition.
Turbo1dr
9 Sec Wanna-Be
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
No flame taken but the design of the intake allows more air to enter the rear cylinders so they are the leanest so you are correct. However, if you are spraying a 7th injector (or in this case alky) I would assume that most of the alky will follow the air path and enter the rear cylinders and richen them up...which is good. So now you have alky enriched rear cylinders that doesn't detonate. BUT...what about the amount of alky that goes in the front cylinders at 25-28psi of boost? I would think that there would be more 93 fuel in the front cylinders due to the injectors being right there in the intake ports...therefore they would be the ones that would start detonating first on a alky equipped car. So that's the reasoning to move the knock sender to the front.
Mile Hi GN
Member
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
Race gas, 1/3 100 UL, 2/3 110L.
I Love the smell of race gas in the morning.....smells like......
I Love the smell of race gas in the morning.....smells like......
Pronto
No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot.
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2002
Since when has 100ul become Race gas??
It's refered to race gas on the pump at Sunoco.
The highest octain available ul at other gas stations around here is 93. The Sunoco down the street from me happens to be one of the few that carry 100ul (last I looked it was $6+ a gallon). 105ul is available at NED at the gas shack.
I never ran leaded gas. I didn't want to deal with filling and draining and bad O2 sensors or the cost.
No flame taken but the design of the intake allows more air to enter the rear cylinders so they are the leanest so you are correct. However, if you are spraying a 7th injector (or in this case alky) I would assume that most of the alky will follow the air path and enter the rear cylinders and richen them up...which is good. So now you have alky enriched rear cylinders that doesn't detonate. BUT...what about the amount of alky that goes in the front cylinders at 25-28psi of boost? I would think that there would be more 93 fuel in the front cylinders due to the injectors being right there in the intake ports...therefore they would be the ones that would start detonating first on a alky equipped car. So that's the reasoning to move the knock sender to the front.
I can agree w/ that. Maybe some testing is in order for a channel/grooved plate to funnel the puddles of alky to the front cylinders.:biggrin:
One day my plan is to do c16 and a little spray
Right now my car is on c16 only. I'd like to get an alchy kit, but the car needs a lot of other things before that, like a cage so I can continue to run at the local tracks w/o getting yelled at:frown:
Turbo1dr
9 Sec Wanna-Be
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
I was actually referring to the guys that don't have the power plate about what may be happening.
Yeah... that sucks!
I was actually referring to the guys that don't have the power plate about what may be happening.
Yeah... that sucks!
They can be very mean sometimes
Only bad thing about alky or meth injection is that it can wash the oil off the cylinder walls and speed up ring/piston skirt wear in a hurry. Thats why keeping it as finely atomized as possible is important and run as little as you need, otherwise its going to wear your motor up. But for a daily driver or anyone who gets sick paying 6 bucks a gallon, alky is the winner hands down. I can run 23/21 timing on 23-25psi with no knock, with my old worn out SMC kit that hardly resembles the original setup. Its all rewired differently, I mounted it behind the bumper (the old kits mounted it 3 inches from a 600 degree exhaust manifold) and changed the plumbing. The tank was dry for about 6 months and when I tried to fire it back up, the pump was seized. The sheath around the pump...whatever that material is, its not meant to sit in a solvent. It broke down into clumps that clogged the pump...plus dirt or something got in there. I was able to unjam the pump gear and clear it all out but it was still not working great. I kept flushing it with wd-40 and blowing it out with compressed air, WHILE running it intermittently at 18 volts with my power supply at work. I also sanded off what was left of that insulating sheath and polished the body, and I enlarged and bellmouthed the pump inlet. Now it pushes more pressure than a new one. I was told 9 months ago "Get a new pump! That thing is going to fail!"...well, 9 months later and its still going.
corsair231
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2005
Maybe I'm wrong but I believe that cost, ease of use, and availability is definitly important in deciding what is best. You may make more power on straight race gas and if you can afford to run it then more power to you. As for me with a daily driver with 90% of my runtime off boost and only modest hp/performance levels there is no other choice than alky injection. It lets me come closer to maximizing my set up on the street everyday. It is an on demand system that's there when I need it, like your dual set up, so a 5 gallon can will last me several months. I can't get to the race track for regular weekly fill-ups.
Yes, like any mechanical part including intank fuel pumps, wastegates, boost controls, waterpumps, wheel bearings, and brakes, alky injection can fail and if running on the edge when any of these fail the results can be catastrophic. (The sharper the edge the more delicate) Good preventative maintenance can reduce the likelyhood of these failures but if we run our cars hard we take our chances.
If cost, availability, and ease of use is not a concern the I believe a car converted to straight meth would probably offer better/more performance than race gas. I think the performance tree goes pro-stock, pro-mod, and then top alcohol in the pro classes. Of course for maximum power and performance wouldn't a top fuel style nitro-methane set up be best. J/K :biggrin:
Like it was said before, it depends on what you want before you decide which is best.
Let's start another thread. Which is the best, turbos, superchargers, or nitrous, v-6 or v-8? Maybe we could all agree on that one.
itsturbotime
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2007
not trying to sound biased but next year when i acquire my gn i was actually leaning towards an alky kit :biggrin:...racing gas would be out of the question...college costs money meth is cheap and i also have access to a close hardware store friend and can get denatured for a little bit of nothing... i have "good" 93 octane readily availible down here in Georgia
Zero, I could probably turn it up a couple more pnds and still get zero knock.
Turbo1dr
9 Sec Wanna-Be
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
OK, I can see that there is no real evidence that alky is better than race gas in a Turbo Regal as far as a performance standpoint. The topic was "which is better" RACE GAS or ALKY....not "which one costs less to run".
I've taken my "alky bee suit" off and am finished poking the hive. Now, get back to your hives (alky section) and leave me alone...
I've taken my "alky bee suit" off and am finished poking the hive.
Now, get back to your hives (alky section) and leave me alone...I know your a pro at changing 02 sensors aint cha!
But I wont add that to the cost because I'm sure you get them replaced under warranty...at least I hope you do.
How much do you spend on fuel a month...answer=more than me:biggrin:
Warranty ??? What is that. :tongue: Yes, I am a pro a changing out O2's, 5 Denso's in the last couple of years @ $19 ea. is peanuts when you're dealing with maintenance / mods to an LC2. Price out a heated or wideband and tell me there cheap.
What I spend on fuel is up to me. Put it this way, when my VDO boost guage is pegged at 30 psi, I'm not worried about my alky pump failing, or if I have the setting high enough, etc. Like I said, if it's mechanical it can fail. Just keeping one more process out of the equation.
OK, I can see that there is no real evidence that alky is better than race gas in a Turbo Regal as far as a performance standpoint. The topic was "which is better" RACE GAS or ALKY....not "which one costs less to run".
I've taken my "alky bee suit" off and am finished poking the hive.
I agree Turbo1dr. So far there has not been anyone to provide concrete proof that the alky is better than race gas. It all comes down to the mighty dollar!
well you can pay alittle now or a hellva alot later! Also get to keep all the pieces you can find when it goes bye bye
OK, I can see that there is no real evidence that alky is better than race gas in a Turbo Regal as far as a performance standpoint. The topic was "which is better" RACE GAS or ALKY....not "which one costs less to run".
I've taken my "alky bee suit" off and am finished poking the hive.
you can lead a horse to water but ya can't make him drink ... ya ever even try Alky ???
... performance standpoint ... Melissa with ALKY and pump gas and just the way she drives the car on the street .. 10.10 @ 132.66 ... 1/8th 1/8 6.430 @ 107.72 .. little 66 turbo and 60 # inj with a chip Similar threads
