New TE60 still worth buying? Or is there a newer/better turbo for the fast street car

[3.8L V-8 eater]

Is a grand the extent of your budget for both the converter and turbo??? If so buying a 6262 itself will be a grand and you definetly will have to buy a converter leaving you short....If you can afford both, a 6262 with a PTC converter from Dusty Bradford is where my money would go....If you can only afford one keep the stock converter and buy Bison's TA-49 turbo and use the rest and get an alky kit!! JMO....

 

[22lbChevelle]

Got alky already. Will get 84+ injectors once I find the 40# to be too small.

The $1000 is for a turbo alone. The converter will remain stock for about 3 months then I will get whatever is best for the turbo.

I'm swinging towards the 6262 with a good 3000-3200 stall. Will this be fine on the stock longblock until I build a new motor in 2 years? I am having a hard time finding info on that question.

 

[Pronto]

Buy Bison's TA49 and save the rest to put towards a built engine. You get to still drive a car with responsiveness and still get an engine later.:smile:

 

[1fast6]

I'm swinging towards the 6262 with a good 3000-3200 stall. Will this be fine on the stock longblock until I build a new motor in 2 years? I am having a hard time finding info on that question.

I think alot of this is going to be your tune and driving habits.
Get the turbo you want, run a modest tune until your new motor then balls out. Problem is, it will be a pig and you won't be happy.

I say either save your money til you can do the motor and 6262 or buy the ta49 run it for a while then sell it when you are ready to drop in your new set up.

 

[22lbChevelle]

Man picking a turbo is tough. I wish I had local cars to take a ride in to see what I like.

 

[JP112_89]

TA49 w/ Garrett housing is the way to go because of the exhaust housing in your case. Anything else will spool slow like Bison noted with the stock converter. I don't really agree with the "you will grow into it" statement from other members. Because you will be SORRY till you do.

Bison and Otto's posted a "Bigger is not always better" DYNO thread that was the useful information concerning a turbo comparison for our cars to date imo. The test was on a stock shortblock TR with minor ported irons, stock valves, with a 212 cam. Brian's 61 that had the Garrett housing, showed the best power curve on first initial tests, noted on the first page of the Dyno test over the turbo's w/ PTE .63 housing. As I followed the thread, it seemed like the use of the smaller exhaust housing was the most important key of the whole thread since most turbo's were within 1% of each other on a stock motored car + bolt on's.

In this post I never posted that the Garrett housing was better than the PTE .63 on a aluminum headed car, non stock motored TR/GN.

 

[bison]

TA49 w/ Garrett housing is the way to go because of the exhaust housing in your case. Anything else will spool slow like Bison noted with the stock converter. I don't really agree with the "you will grow into it" statement from other members. Because you will be SORRY till you do.

Bison and Otto's posted a "Bigger is not always better" DYNO thread that was the useful information concerning a turbo comparison for our cars to date imo. The test was on a stock shortblock TR with minor ported irons, stock valves, with a 212 cam. Brian's 61 that had the Garrett housing, showed the best power curve on first initial tests, noted on the first page of the Dyno test over the turbo's w/ PTE .63 housing. As I followed the thread, it seemed like the use of the smaller exhaust housing was the most important key of the whole thread since most turbo's were within 1% of each other on a stock motored car + bolt on's.

In this post I never posted that the Garrett housing was better than the PTE .63 on a aluminum headed car, non stock motored TR/GN.

I made 500whp even with the Garrett .63 on that combo. The engine was over cammed for the really small ex wheel turbos to be honest. The small ex housing is really important when the converter is marginal. That converter wasnt marginal by any means but it still showed you could run a journal turbo and still have it spool like a non journal when you have the right components. Below 5300 the boost was still holding steady. Most with stock long blocks never go over 5300. When i switched to a .85 i gained nothing till i was over 5300 because it held boost but surprisingly nothing below that even with the boost in the high 20's. If back pressure isnt an issue boost becomes the source of power. More boost was always better here. Growing into a turbo will yield less than optimal performance. Could you imagine what a turd this thing would have been with the 7680? It would have sucked big time in the 330'. I dont think it would have went faster than about 10.80 if i ran it like i did with the 60-1 that left hard.

 

[BobbyBuick]

Id buy that ta63 patrick has on here for 500 bucks and take the other 500 and get a PTC converter

 

[22lbChevelle]

Is a 6262-S and a 3200 converter ok on a stock longblock?

 

[JP112_89]

Is a 6262-S and a 3200 converter ok on a stock longblock?

Your stock cam is not good match for a 3200 @ 0-1 psi converter, imo.

I had the 6262 journal w/ PTC 3200 L/U and it was way too loose.

6262 , PTC 2800 @ 0-1 psi with a stock cam would be good.

 

[22lbChevelle]

Oh so the 6262 only needs a 2800 stall? Or is that only with a stock cam?

 

[JP112_89]

Oh so the 6262 only needs a 2800 stall? Or is that only with a stock cam?

Stock cam will need a tighter converter.

 

[t-typex1]

Id buy that ta63 patrick has on here for 500 bucks and take the other 500 and get a PTC converter

I agree with this.
TA63 will produce some nice times with the right convertor

 

[L8TRH8R]

Take it from someone who made the mistake of trying to "grow into a turbo." DON'T. Get the 49 from Bison, get that that combo working correct with the pieces you have now and keep saving until your ready for your full build. Why buy parts and put wear and tear on them just to rebuild in two years? Get by with some less expensive used stuff then in a couple years when you wanna go through it all, sell what you can, and have a BRAND NEW combo that is all made to work together. Take it from those who've been there done that. I'm
Very glad that my new combo is just that, NEW.


Bacon curtains sizzlin'

 

[vacuum 6]

With a stock motor I saw little gain moving to a 60 from a 49. I say buy Brian's 49.

However with heads and cam cant beat 119.96 MPH at 18# with a TE60.

 

[22lbChevelle]

Are there any new garrett turbos available that would fit the bill?

 

[hensleyt]

Do 49 fix your 60ft get in the 11s get a roll bar then your ready for A biger turbo

 

[22lbChevelle]

The more I read about precision the more I'm thinking I will shy away from them. From what I keep coming across, they have one engineer and they don't release their compressor maps

So is there an "all garrett" GT6152 ?

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

sup dude
TE-60 With a OE ported Exhaust housing
180K-195K miles on stock long block
42.5 injectors
Dutt neck
PP
shi**tt**ty tune
and i ran a 12.10 -107 MPH @ 3800#s
i have been told that the TE-60 is a shi**tt**ty turbo but i just went 11.74 @ 114 on the new build and a terrible terrible tune.
So for me the $600.00 i paid for this turbo was well worth it.
Good luck anyway you go and keep us posted.

 

[its2qik]

Buy a Bullseye "batmowheel" billet 66mm turbo (s366). Put a 50-75 shot on the car just to spool it. Put foot to floor, press nitrous button for few seconds, hold on:biggrin:

http://www.bullseyepower.com/S300.asp