Ridetech Coilovers!

If those are Grade 8 bolts, they should be good for well over 10k lbs in shear. Granted you have some moments to consider if you do the actual calc, but I don't think it will be an issue.
 
I finally finished the rear coil over install. I had the correct bolts sent and was assured by Ridetech that the lower brackets are strong enough. All bolts used were grade 8. As you can see from the pics there are no interference issues. The pics are with the weight of the car on the suspension. I don't think I'll have any issues with the axle tube and my ATR exhaust. My next job will be to install the DSE rear adjustable sway bar.
coil over install PS.jpg
coil over install DS.jpg
 
I finally got some time to post up what I've been doing on this project. The rear suspension is complete including the DSE rear sway bar. I've since turned my attention to the font suspension. I stripped off all the old stock stuff and went to work installing my tubular upper and lowers with my Blazer brake conversion parts. Because the lowers were stock replacement style mounts I was concerned about all the weight/pressure being focused on the two bolt holes that would normally mount the shock absorber. It just didn't look strong enough. After talking to UMI we agreed that reinforcing it would be wise. I located a local metal fabricating company that said they could laser cut some steel plate for me if I gave them a drawing of what I needed. I went one step farther and gave them the arm to draw it themselves! They cut these plates for only $25 and I couldn't be happier with the results. It effectively doubled the mount area for the coil overs. Here's the pics...Lower CA Mod plate.jpglower CA mod plate 2.jpg
 
Mounting the front coil over is pretty straight forward. You will need to drill a the stock upper shock mount hole in the frame to 3/4 inch. After that I went to work mounting all my Blazer Brake conversion parts I've been collecting for the past year. Here's the brakes installed. It was taken before I had installed the new brake hoses. Also notice the difference between the stock GN brake pad and the Blazer pad. you can see why this is an improvement!

Blazer brake mounted.jpgBlazer brake pad compare.jpg

I have also replaced all the stock steering components with new Moog units. I will be bleeding the Powermaster next. Not looking forward to that....
 
Thanks jevans, I'm anxious to get it on the ground, adjust the coil overs and test drive it. Should be a totally different animal. I just hope I won't have any contact issues with the tires. A trip to the alignment shop will follow soon after.
 
Thanks jevans, I'm anxious to get it on the ground, adjust the coil overs and test drive it. Should be a totally different animal. I just hope I won't have any contact issues with the tires. A trip to the alignment shop will follow soon after.

I think you'll be happy with the coil over set-up, it opens up the options of fine tuning your suspension. Having access to a set of scales will help, it's amazing what suspension and spring adjustments do with moving weight around. I have Outlaw style ladder bars and coil overs on the rear of my GN. I recently purchased a pair of QA1 Pro Coil's to go with my Afco shocks for the front, just need to install them.

I had to cut and fabricate a recessed pocket on my front inner wheel wells so my tires don't rub, I'm running a pair of 26x6's on 15x4's.

Looking forward to seeing pics of your car back on the ground. Good luck finishing your project...

John
 
I finally took the car to the alignment shop and out on the road a couple of weeks back. I was absolutely amazed at how well the car rides and handles. Firm but not harsh is the way would describe it. Corners flat with no lean at all. The blazer brakes were also a noticeable improvement to the car as well. At this point, my tires that are currently on it are my limiting factor. I will save up for some 18s in the future. Unfortunately, we are remodeling the living room, so my available funds are gonna be tied up! BTW, these pics are of the car right before the alignment. I have M/T ET drags on the rear (275/50s) with no contact issues. This is the way a GN would handle if it were a new car in 2012!
IMG_1168.jpgIMG_1169.jpg
 
Looks good Tim! i just had RC make some plates for my lower CA's i sent them a template for mine as they were different from yours i should have them any day now!
Chris
 
Thanks Chris! I hope the plates work for you. My cups and plates are doing fine and I see no signs of distortion so I'm confident they are up to the task.
I'm getting the GN out today to drive it some more. Keep me advised on how yours is coming.
 
I got my plates last night they are cut perfect now to coat them and pop'em in!
Chris
 
Looks like the doubler plate is on the bottom.... Shouldn't it be on the top of the arm pocket to distribute the weight?
It's on the top. It wouldn't provide any benefit if it was on the bottom. It doubles the thickness of the pocket on my arms and spreads the load out.
 
It's on the top. It wouldn't provide any benefit if it was on the bottom. It doubles the thickness of the pocket on my arms and spreads the load out.
It just looks like it is on the bottom in that picture then, or is it painted black?
 
cant find the "T" bracket for the lower control arms on their site.
 
never mind i found it..which trunion mount did you get the the 2361 or the 2362?
 
Top