STEP BY STEP ENGINE REBUILD!

[BARRACUDA1968]

Great thread! I will be assembling my engine soon. I give you credit for taking on a lot of the very critical steps in making these engines live. I wasn't that brave.

I am also a newbie and am learning as I go.

Since the motor is done and running now I will give you my 2 cents.

Take it easy for a while and tune the car properly. Make sure your fuel system is up to par, check your pressure. Install a wideband sensor so you can monitor your A/F a little easier if you don't quite understand the scanmaster.

I didn't see it in your thread but did you properly TQ your knock sensor?

Since it looks like you're running your oil cooler did you flush the lines?

How about the turbo? Did you have it inspected in case material went through it?

I ask these questions only because I will take NO chances or shortcuts on my build. Too much money and time to ruin it over a small detail.

I would be proud of yourself for doing the job. There was a lot of great advice in this thread and hopefully you followed what I know to be the correct advice in certain areas of the build like the timing chain cover mods and bearing clearances.

Did you put the TH350 back in or go to a 2004R?

 

[DDot690]

^and had ARP bolts installed. If you're lucky the head bolts are ARP too and you won't have to buy a set.

Your rear cap isn't where the thrust bearing is located. The heads are stock 8445 castings with an exhaust leak and aftermarket springs (that may or may not be any good)

Toss the water pump and get a new one, they're too cheap to reuse. Inspect the water pump bolts carefully and look for extreme scaling and thread degradation. Since they go into water some of them can get nasty nasty. The last thing you want is to seize a long bolt into the WP and timing cover.

From what it looks like, someone in the past rebuild a stock engine, added ARP rod bolts, and diamond pistons. Then put it back together.

I would pay CLOSE attention to the lobes on the cam and see if any of them are shorter than the others. Also clean the bottom of the tappets and spin them on a piece of glass. If they aren't flattend, they will spin like a weeble-wobble. If they sit flat, you need to pay EXTRA EXTRA EXTRA attention cleaning the block. EVERY nook and cranny ESP behind the galley plugs.

Lol i should try that could blow snow over my second neigbors house and watch out when i hit boost lolol


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[earlbrown]

So how can someone say that it rich or not?

Because it's greater than .450 volts which is roughly 14.7:1. At full throttle you need to be richer than that, but at cruise, there's no reason to be that rich.


and if that number was static at cruise you have a problem. It should be bouncing all over the place (and the CC numbers jumping up in pretty good sized increments)