I guess I'm cofused. You said it's flying up to 25# of boost? If you're running the stock wastegate, stock solenoid, and ecm boost control this is not possible unless there's a problem somewhere. Either in the boost control plumbing or faulty wastegate, etc.
Time to start the tuning process HELP
- Thread starter TURBOPOWERED68
- Start date
I guess I'm cofused. You said it's flying up to 25# of boost? If you're running the stock wastegate, stock solenoid, and ecm boost control this is not possible unless there's a problem somewhere. Either in the boost control plumbing or faulty wastegate, etc.
TURBOPOWERED68
David
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2006
No wonder the car had so much extra boost the actuator line that connects to the compressor housing was broken. So back to having a boost-less car!!!!
The car still coughs when I go WOT from low RPMs
TURBOPOWERED68
David
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2006
When does it stop?
When the new owner picks it up!!!!
Anyway I just finished making the OE actuator adjustable I didn't want to stop on the way home so I just led it where it ended up at, which lucky for me was 15-16 PSI.
But with out touching u a nothing else on the car now my RPMS are crazy high. I pulled over just to see if they drop, it took about 15 minutes of 1700 RPM or better before it finally dropped.
So what would cause the RPMs to stay that high for that long?
When the new owner picks it up!!!!
Anyway I just finished making the OE actuator adjustable I didn't want to stop on the way home so I just led it where it ended up at, which lucky for me was 15-16 PSI.
But with out touching u a nothing else on the car now my RPMS are crazy high. I pulled over just to see if they drop, it took about 15 minutes of 1700 RPM or better before it finally dropped.
So what would cause the RPMs to stay that high for that long?
TURBOPOWERED68
David
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2006
may be
but i didn't touch anything else at all
it felt like the computer going up and down.
i am going back in a few i'll check for leaks.
BTW the work was done ON the car i didn't remove the actuator for the mod
TURBOPOWERED68
David
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2006
The IAC valve's plug was half way out.
The retainer clip is broken. Can you say “wire tie”
But since I opened the hood I wonder what’s going to mess up now.
The retainer clip is broken. Can you say “wire tie”
But since I opened the hood I wonder what’s going to mess up now.
TURBOPOWERED68
David
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2006
Back to the sputter scenario
The car is warm and idleling normal at 700-750.
If I SLAM on the gas the car will pop and sputter.
BUT
If I ease into WOT it goes smooth as silk.
What should I start checking for the tenth time?
The car is warm and idleling normal at 700-750.
If I SLAM on the gas the car will pop and sputter.
BUT
If I ease into WOT it goes smooth as silk.
What should I start checking for the tenth time?
Back to the sputter scenario
The car is warm and idleling normal at 700-750.
If I SLAM on the gas the car will pop and sputter.
BUT
If I ease into WOT it goes smooth as silk.
What should I start checking for the tenth time?
Sounds like your chip might need some more aggresive AE (acceleration enrichment).
TURBOPOWERED68
David
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2006
How do I change that?
Chip settings?
Or
New chip?
It did get a little better when I lowered the FP down to 40psi. Vacuum disconnected
Tomorrow I will try to lower the fuel pressure a little more to see how it goes.
TURBOPOWERED68
David
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2006
Back to the sputter/back fire scenario
The car is warm and idleling normal at 700-750.
And in parking OR in gear
If I SLAM on the gas the car will pop and sputter/back fire.
BUT
If I ease into WOT in parking OR in gear it goes smooth as silk."
I have lowered the fuel pressure to 38 PSI VACUUM LINE DISCONNECTED
And raised it to 50 psi VACUUM LINE DISCONNECTED and that lower RPM WOT sputter/back fire is still around and kicking my ass.
What do I check for the tenth time? Timing?
The car is warm and idleling normal at 700-750.
And in parking OR in gear
If I SLAM on the gas the car will pop and sputter/back fire.
BUT
If I ease into WOT in parking OR in gear it goes smooth as silk."
I have lowered the fuel pressure to 38 PSI VACUUM LINE DISCONNECTED
And raised it to 50 psi VACUUM LINE DISCONNECTED and that lower RPM WOT sputter/back fire is still around and kicking my ass.
What do I check for the tenth time? Timing?
TURBOPOWERED68
David
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2006
i found the problem yesterday it was a real shocker to me.
today i will verify the Cam sensor position AGAIN and EVERY thing else then i will cause the backfire/sputter then fix it again just verify my findings after this is done i will post what is/was the problem.
should be late tonight because TODAY i belong to the wife and kids not the car.:biggrin:
today i will verify the Cam sensor position AGAIN and EVERY thing else then i will cause the backfire/sputter then fix it again just verify my findings after this is done i will post what is/was the problem.
should be late tonight because TODAY i belong to the wife and kids not the car.:biggrin:
TURBOPOWERED68
David
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2006
10#PSI
825-- O2s
2.5 to 4.9 KR
Stock Injectors
Dutt Neck
Stock DP
TE-60
Power Plate
43#psi FP line of
825-- O2s
2.5 to 4.9 KR
Stock Injectors
Dutt Neck
Stock DP
TE-60
Power Plate
43#psi FP line of
TURBOPOWERED68
David
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2006
thanks! will do.
TURBOPOWERED68
David
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2006
At idle 800 RPM
O2 are at 880-898
BL is at 138
Everything else is good
What should be my next move to get these in line?
O2 are at 880-898
BL is at 138
Everything else is good
What should be my next move to get these in line?
I'm trying to figure out how you can have O2 volts that high and only see 138 BLM values?????
What scan tool is seeing these numbers?
TURBOPOWERED68
David
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2006
Scanmaster
TURBOPOWERED68
David
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2006
I'm missing something then.
You can't have those BLM values and be showing O2 near 900.
you know as much as i do.
i'll get all the numbers some time today and i'll post them up.
