Recent content by Dr. Freeze

I'm an ex-commercial broker and my wife's a residential agent... Here's the deal with earnest money...It ISN'T yours, it's the buyers. That is unless they default on the contract without ANY grounds; like "I changed my mind." Termite damage whether known or not is grounds for termination of...

Damn...Had to put my competitor's site on here, huh?? How 'bout: www.deepfreezecryo.com As for a V6 Buick crank... $125.00 -Jeb

In the case of TR cranks (and others of its ilk) the true benefits of the cryogenic process come about through the stress relieving and dimensional stabilizing properties of the process. Cast crankshafts are not heat treated but are instead "work hardened;" this presents a problem in that...

I recieved quite a few email after my post regarding cryogenic processing of TB crankshafts in the topic; "What material are TR cranks made of." Every email wanted to know more about the process so instead of answering dozens of emails seperately about it I though I would post an article I...

My company (Deep Freeze Cryogenics) has cryoed quite a few 3.8 cranks for local Turbo Regal guys lately... The problem with nodular iron crankshafts is two-fold: most of them are not tempered (heat treated) but are instead "work hardened" by the machining process... That's not really a problem...

I'll have to side with UNGN on this one... It wholly depends on what your particular combination wants to run through the traps at... For my 9 second '90 Vette with 4.09 gears and a big 436" small block on nitrous it wants to go through the traps around 6300... With 26" x 11.5" ET Drags this...

I cryo treat more flat tappet cams and lifters than I really care to count and the process does amazing things for them. Never coated one though as the coating is a surface treatment (much like nitriding) and will wear eventually; the cryogenic process is a through hardening process that never...

I cryo-treat and coat all bearings in my builds...It makes a pretty considerable difference; we rarely see much wear when we pull them back out. You can run tighter clearances and cold-starts are much easier due to the lubricity of the coatings... The cryo process helps with wear resistance...

I will try that...You're referring to the start-up oil light (idiot light), correct? I suspect that may be what it is... I'm so used to SBC's and BBC's (I'm an ex-machinist) and other 8cyl's the Buick is new to me. I built several of them when I had the shop but I've slept many times over...

I've "heard" the 3.8 Buicks don't have a very good oiling system; but as you state, probably heresy... As for the rattle I would be more apt to think it IS something like a bottom-end noise; it sounds like piston slap but could certainly be lower. It occurs just about every time I start it...

Mmkay... Now what about the oil pressure "mod?" -Jeb

My '86 GN with 38k miles exhibits piston slap upon startup; it only last for two, maybe three seconds and is quite similar to what I hear from forged piston small and big blocks (that I'm more used to). It doesn't really alarm me unless there's reason to be...Is this a frequent/common thing...

I've run both T&D and Jesel on street cars for quite awhile...Now, we're not talking about TB's but small and big block Chevy's. I'm running T&D's right now on my high 9 second C4 Corvette and haven't had a stitch of problems out of them; I've had them on the car for about 5 years with two...

3/32" tungsten, about 70 on amperage with the argon at 18... Put more heat on the bung (it's a fillet weld really) than the d.p... ANY competent TIG welder should be able to do this without even thinking about it. Hell, a MIG with stainless wire would be simple too...But not as attractive. -Jeb

Yes, it was up in the t-body and the ducting leading to/from i/c... I couldn't really tell if there was oil in the turbo inlet side (from PCV) but it didn't look to be. Wouldn't there be some slop in the turbo shafts if the seals were going? It's not a big deal if they are, I'll just upgrade...