15x10 at the rear?

[Grumpy]

They were 1/2" studs.

what size china spacers were you running ??

 

[johnplogii]

They were USA made 1/2" billet alum spacers that fit nice & tight, not the ones with the big sloppy holes. That is why I ran them figuring they would work ok. The one that I saw laying on the track by the nova was the mr. gasket style.

 

[turbonatr]

I've run Mr. Gasket spacers on my now-sold GN for years making hundreds of 10 second passes and never had a problem (full weight GN, BTW). I've also run the same kind of spacers on my T without issue (also a full-weight turbo Regal).

The only way I can see a problem arising is if the spacers are so thick that the wheel studs don't extend far enough out of the wheel hub. I would imagine that would put extra stress on the stud. If the studs are long enough and the correct length shank lug nut is used, I don't see an issue.

I'll run out to the trailer when I get a chance and check my current NHRA rule book to see if there are any rules against running spacers.

 

[turbonatr]

Here is the ruling on wheel spacers. It's under section 5:2 WHEELS.

Not sure where you got your info, johnplogii, but they ARE permitted by the NHRA.

 

[johnplogii]

I honestly don't know where I had heard that. I think it was the manager of our local track? Anyway the way I saw it is that the further out you move the wheel on the studs, the more force you are applying on them, like a lever. If you picture a tree branch-if you grab it at the base & hang on it it will support you, Now go out further & the same weight will put more force on it. The further you go the more force you will put on it. Go far enough it will bend or break. I don't mean to start anything here I was just posting my own experience here in hopes to help others not have the same problems. In my situation I was running 1/2" moser studs 3" long, with 1/2" thick billet aluminum spacers. The holes in the spacers were just over 1/2" so they slid on nice & snug. I ran two different style wheels with this setup. One was the stock gta wheels with the tapered seat lug nuts, the other was a centerline style with a shank style lug nut. I do not know which wheel style did it but I ended up with 10 bent wheelstuds, all bent backwards as from hard launching. I never even did get it to hook real hard back then either, 1.50 60ft or so.

John Plog

 

[turbonatr]

What the NHRA is concerned with is where in the lug nut the wheel stud ends. If the stud ends within the hex part of the lug nut, you're legal. Bending or breaking studs can happen without spacers if the stud doesn't extend far enough into the lug nut. Yes, the further out you move the wheel on the stud, the more leverage is applied to the stud. However, if the stud still extends far enough into the lug nut as the illustration above shows, your NHRA legal...spacers and all.

 

[Ed Valvo]

15x10 GN Wheel with 5.5 BS and notched frame.

 

[Ed Valvo]

15x10 with 4.5 BS. It's flush with fender lip however frame notch not required on buddy's car. Spacer was required on my car therefore I went with the notch.

 

[BAGN]

15 x 10 w/5in B.S. 325x50x15

Notched frame rails and curled fender lips

 

[Grumpy]

4.5 backspace with BIG tires still gives ya the "bronco billy" (redneck look) to me.. I hate cars that sit way up in the air with air bags .. oh well.. to each their own

 

[lazaris]

15x10 GN Wheel with 5.5 BS and notched frame.

Ed are you using any spacers? Is your notch to the seam or all the way back to the rail?

 

[Underboost]

Not High Jack the thread but... whats the going rate for a notch these days? "anyone"

 

[Grumpy]

Not High Jack the thread but... whats the going rate for a notch these days? "anyone"

$1000/$1200 up here in the NE area for a NICE job.. I know I know.. everyone can get it done for $4/500