16 Volt Setup

[Alky V6]

Doh!

 

[Chevota]

And you never have to use the high position on the windsheild wipers.
Jeff

What windshield wipers? Ever drove in the rain with slicks?
Btw, the truck sat for the past 6 months with no charger on the 16volt batt and it started right up tonight after some minor troubleshooting. Still at 16.8 volts!

Scott Wile

 

[steveX]

The reason an alternator putting out 16volt is considered bad on a 12v battery is that the plates will become corroded and it will also cause excess gassing which causes the cells to loose electrolytes. In simple terms, the battery will wear out prematurely or possibly explode. AGM type batteries require higher currents to fully charge and are more tolerable to higher charging alternators.

It is recommended to upgrade all wiring to a minimum of 16ga when making the switch. I don't see any reason to run a 16v system on a street car unless you are into car audio. I would never go back to a 12v system on my race car. FWIW

The alternator is required to charger at 16volt. Why?. the alternator is in-charge ("CHARGE") of charging the battery and provide volt/current/amp to all ele component. The alternator will charger the battery at 85-140amp. This will insure FIRST TIME STARTER all the time. when all component are running the alternator is only able 50% charge the battery. Remember, you have the a/c going, re-defrost, radio (moving speaker core),ECM and all sensors, all lights, and other component "ON". if 16volt is over-charge, might be the case in sheet-metal race cars.

It alway smart to move your battery to the trunk .you will find most of the high end import/ American car have the battery under the seat or trunk. Keeping the battery in a cool environment is best. Better performance and longer lasting life is gain. Since the battery is located in the engine compartment of the TR . the heat generate by the engine will cause the acid/liquid to get hot. The water in the acid will evaporate leaving nasty corrosion in the battery area.This is why you will see a nasty biult up of corrosion around the battery terminal. REASON: Lead and plastic does not fuse together, so the evaporate/gas will become pressure and try to escape or EXPLODE. I have even seen seal battery cause leaks or explode. The primary reason the over-heated cause my engine compartment heat.

when think about electricity, you should alway thing AMP`s first. AMP`s is the working element of electricity.

 

[oldtimer]

Any reason why this alternator won't work ?


Delco 16V / 140A Racing Alternator
Powermaster has taken the Delco-Remy CS130 to a new level both in looks and reliability. They offer incredible output both at idle and at highway speed. The housings are custom made and offer a streamlined look for the discerning enthusiast. Made for the street but suitable for racing environments, they are internally regulated and feature both internal and external fans. The diodes, which were a cause of failure in the OE Delco-Remy design, have been upgraded from the OE 25A wafer type to 50A press fit type for maximum durability. The gold battery post is a signature of an authentic Powermaster alternator.

713-478026
Delco Racing Alternator
16 Volt
140 Amp
1-Wire


$171.99


George

 

[Alky V6]

Any reason why this alternator won't work ?


Delco 16V / 140A Racing Alternator
Powermaster has taken the Delco-Remy CS130 to a new level both in looks and reliability. They offer incredible output both at idle and at highway speed. The housings are custom made and offer a streamlined look for the discerning enthusiast. Made for the street but suitable for racing environments, they are internally regulated and feature both internal and external fans. The diodes, which were a cause of failure in the OE Delco-Remy design, have been upgraded from the OE 25A wafer type to 50A press fit type for maximum durability. The gold battery post is a signature of an authentic Powermaster alternator.

713-478026
Delco Racing Alternator
16 Volt
140 Amp
1-Wire


$171.99


George

If 140 amps meets your max usage requirement, I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work.

 

[gnxtc2]

Any reason why this alternator won't work ?


Delco 16V / 140A Racing Alternator
Powermaster has taken the Delco-Remy CS130 to a new level both in looks and reliability. They offer incredible output both at idle and at highway speed. The housings are custom made and offer a streamlined look for the discerning enthusiast. Made for the street but suitable for racing environments, they are internally regulated and feature both internal and external fans. The diodes, which were a cause of failure in the OE Delco-Remy design, have been upgraded from the OE 25A wafer type to 50A press fit type for maximum durability. The gold battery post is a signature of an authentic Powermaster alternator.

713-478026
Delco Racing Alternator
16 Volt
140 Amp
1-Wire


$171.99


George

George, heard great things about this guy on YB.com and he's from up by you SVA Power Products

I have an East Coast 200A 16v alternator on my car.

 

[oldtimer]

Billy, good site with good technical information. Thanks.

Ok, does anybody have an idea what is the average amp requirements on the average TSO, TSM, TSL car. ( without air conditioning/heater/ radio/sterio etc.

I think we all have similiar set ups, eg: MSD, Fuel Pump, tranny brake,
XFI, dattalogger, EGT module, Dual fans, Elec w/p, headlites, taillites, elec vacuum pumps etc.

What other items have I missed that would require more load ?

I see some racers with 100 amp alternators and others with 200 amp units and both don't seem to experience negative issues. Do we need 200 amps ?

Thanks for any and all help with this ? I'm obviously ignorant on this topic!

George





George

 

[Bent6]

Do you NEED 200 amps - NO. You didn't mention if your car still has the Powermaster brake system which is a power hog. Think about it like this - a stock TR has a 120amp alternator so if you don't have AC, radio, Powermaster, etc. but have the addtional load of electric water pump, HP fuel pump, etc. you're about breaking even.

If your car is race only I would either A) don't even run an alternator - simple, less weight, less drag on engine, less bs. OR B) run a 120-140amp alternator which would be plenty with the equipment you described. Remember, amperage is like flow whereas voltage is like pressure. The beauty of the 16v setup is that it will always be ahead of a 12v system even when fully discharged. My race car runs 3 (yes 3) fuel pumps, intercooler pump, water pump, MSD 7AL ignition, XFI, datalogger, transbrake, various timers, relays, etc with a single 16volt AGM battery and NO alternator. Datalogger has never shown voltage fall below 15.5v for the entire time car is running including shutdown - usually maintains about 16-17v during the run. As long as you charge between rounds an alternator is simply not necessary unless your class rules just require it. FWIW.

 

[oldtimer]

Do you NEED 200 amps - NO. You didn't mention if your car still has the Powermaster brake system which is a power hog. Think about it like this - a stock TR has a 120amp alternator so if you don't have AC, radio, Powermaster, etc. but have the addtional load of electric water pump, HP fuel pump, etc. you're about breaking even.

If your car is race only I would either A) don't even run an alternator - simple, less weight, less drag on engine, less bs. OR B) run a 120-140amp alternator which would be plenty with the equipment you described. Remember, amperage is like flow whereas voltage is like pressure. The beauty of the 16v setup is that it will always be ahead of a 12v system even when fully discharged. My race car runs 3 (yes 3) fuel pumps, intercooler pump, water pump, MSD 7AL ignition, XFI, datalogger, transbrake, various timers, relays, etc with a single 16volt AGM battery and NO alternator. Datalogger has never shown voltage fall below 15.5v for the entire time car is running including shutdown - usually maintains about 16-17v during the run. As long as you charge between rounds an alternator is simply not necessary unless your class rules just require it. FWIW.

Thanks a lot Will, much appreciated. No I don't have the Powermaster. I run manual brakes.

I just got my Turbostart 16 volt battery and charger and just ordered a Powermaster 140 amp 16 volt alternator ( listed in post 64 above ) I just wasn't sure if the 140 amp would be enough amps to get the job done. I would have re-done the order if necessary. Yeah, I need the alternator for class requirements presently, but could remove it if required.:biggrin:

Thanks again. See you at Bowling Green.

George

 

[Awesome T]

This post reminds me of my old blonde girlfrend, true story ...

Who went to Europe on business. Brought her 120 volt curling iron with her from the States, borrowed an adapter to plug it into the hotel 220 volt outlet, let it warm up, then burnt the hair off the front of her head. Funny girl.

 

[BadAssGN]

What about a DC/DC convertor.

That way you can keep the existing 12 volt system and supply higher voltage to a select few components such as the fuel pump and the XFI if you wish...

Just a thought... then Donnie wont spend an afternoon searching for magic smoke.:biggrin:

12 volt DC/DC converters regulator from 100 to 700 Watts.

 

[Louie L.]

Thanks a lot Will, much appreciated. No I don't have the Powermaster. I run manual brakes.

I just got my Turbostart 16 volt battery and charger and just ordered a Powermaster 140 amp 16 volt alternator ( listed in post 64 above ) I just wasn't sure if the 140 amp would be enough amps to get the job done. I would have re-done the order if necessary. Yeah, I need the alternator for class requirements presently, but could remove it if required.:biggrin:

Thanks again. See you at Bowling Green.

George

George,
I run a 106 amp 16V Alt. with no problems. I have 2 electric water pumps, one electric turbo sump pump, and a Weldon, Crane Ign and XFI.

 

[oldtimer]

Who went to Europe on business. Brought her 120 volt curling iron with her from the States, borrowed an adapter to plug it into the hotel 220 volt outlet, let it warm up, then burnt the hair off the front of her head. Funny girl.

And I bet you got a real charge out that, didn't you:biggrin:

Sorry, I just couldn't resist that

George

 

[oldtimer]

George,
I run a 106 amp 16V Alt. with no problems. I have 2 electric water pumps, one electric turbo sump pump, and a Weldon, Crane Ign and XFI.

Thanks Louie, I'm sure I'll be fine with what I'm going with ... at least I'm a little more sure now.

George