1k to spend

[pvt num 11]

Stock car. 108k miles. What are the must-have items?

I already have Scanmaster and Translator/LS1 MAF on my list.

 

[RatFink]

I think a good chip and alcky injection. Since the Terry Houston downpipes are no longer available, take the cat off and put a cut-out on it with an electric cutout mounted on it. I love to pull up to ricers with loud turbos and open it up. They get the picture real quick, swooosshhhhh.:wink:

 

[72firebird]

I don't think I would bother with the translator. I think I would go alky, 36 lbs injectors, chip, manual cutout (I know several people who have had problems with the electric), and a set of slicks or drag radials

 

[TTA850]

I already have Scanmaster and Translator/LS1 MAF on my list.

Scanmaster is a definate but if there's nothing wrong with your stock maf I'd leave it alone.

For $1K I'd do(prices are approximate):
fuel pump and hot wire kit - $160
turbotweak chips - $170(street and race, $85 each)
scanmaster - $250
maf pipe and k&n filter - $130ish
valvesprings - $40
adjustable wastegate actuator - $85
boost guage - $50
test pipe w/dump - $150
crankcase breather - $50
------------------
total - $1085

With that above on racegas(22psi boost)and ET Streets my old car went 11.9 @ 113. When money allows you can then add alky and have racegas performance all the time.

 

[RatFink]

72Firebird has a point. The electric cutout is a 007 kinda gadget that isn't neccessary, but here's what I've found (also, I've not had any problems with mine, it's functioned for 3 years) when you cruise around looking for races, which I do more than frequent the drag strip, no one will take any bate when your cruisin with the cutout open. It's just to damn obvious not to mention intimidating hearing that turbo spool bounce off of every building in a mile radius. When you cruise along, nice and quiet, no loud radio blasting, lookin all "I'm into it for the collectablilty" this is when you've appropriately bated your victim. Numerous nitrous pumpin ricers have fallen to my inconspicuous ruse as well as Corvettes of every description. It's just fun to get them to stall it up at a red light, the other lane light turns yellow, hit the button, a quick glance of the competition's face and all of sudden I know, they know, everybody in traffic knows...A whole lot of distance is about to be put between me and whomever happened to think that I was just out for a nice evening cruise to the grocery. Hell, I'm 34 but am still as inmature as can be when I get in that car. It's all good. If I had a GN I would probably go with a fenderwell dump. Super cheap and effective, however this isn't an option for Trans Am kids. Have fun, get Alchy!!:biggrin:

 

[pvt num 11]

The MAF is dying, it doesn't respond very well to being tapped on - if the idle is junk, I can tap on it and one of two things happens. The car will either die out altogether or the idle wil smooth out a LOT. I've not heard anything good about replacement stock MAF's, has that changed as of late? Aftermarket sources finally making any decent plug-n-play ones?

I was also considering a manual cutout, is it a direct swap over the convertor? Pics would be groovy.

We don't have a track anymore here, so I'm more into reliable cruising with decent power to back it up.

 

[72firebird]

Scanmaster is a definate but if there's nothing wrong with your stock maf I'd leave it alone.

For $1K I'd do(prices are approximate):
fuel pump and hot wire kit - $160
turbotweak chips - $170(street and race, $85 each)
scanmaster - $250
maf pipe and k&n filter - $130ish
valvesprings - $40
adjustable wastegate actuator - $85
boost guage - $50
test pipe w/dump - $150
crankcase breather - $50
------------------
total - $1085

With that above on racegas(22psi boost)and ET Streets my old car went 11.9 @ 113. When money allows you can then add alky and have racegas performance all the time.

yup I would follow that exactly but I would just run a manual boost controller instead of an adjustable waste gate (RJC sells a nice one) they're much easier to use.

 

[RatFink]

Yeah, the section where the cat is currently is replaced by a piece that is the same dimentions as the cat only it's a pipe with the cutout part extending away. check this link, it will help
http://secure.johnsperformance.com/images/large/large-2.5cutout.jpg

 

[Quiky One]

The MAF is dying, it doesn't respond very well to being tapped on - if the idle is junk, I can tap on it and one of two things happens. The car will either die out altogether or the idle wil smooth out a LOT. I've not heard anything good about replacement stock MAF's, has that changed as of late? Aftermarket sources finally making any decent plug-n-play ones?

I was also considering a manual cutout, is it a direct swap over the convertor? Pics would be groovy.

We don't have a track anymore here, so I'm more into reliable cruising with decent power to back it up.

If it is bad, go translator. I went through 3 and finally bit the bullet and bought the translator setup.

Jared..I disagree on the RJC controller. I have heard it helps spool up, but there is not much adjustability with it. Go adjustable and don't look back..

Jason

 

[cottonpicker14]

Or there is this one eBay Motors: 86-87 BUICK GRAND NATIONAL CONVERTER TEST PIPE (item 330088361709 end time Feb-20-07 03:58:27 PST)

or this one eBay Motors: BUICK GRAND NATIONAL TEST PIPE W/ DUMP TUBE (item 330086541468 end time Feb-15-07 04:04:43 PST)

I used the first one and bought an electric cutout which works great, can get it here Welcome to DMH Performance!

Makes a big difference IMO.

 

[pvt num 11]

Looks like I'll go before the House Finance Comittee to discuss possible funding to upgrade the Department of Transportation...

 

[Chrisk]

If you know your build number you can submit it to the tta registry @ .....:::::Turbo Trans Am Registry:::::..... we are really trying to keep track of these cars!

Thanks,
Chris

 

[pvt num 11]

I'm on there, but I don't know my build number. I'm not even certain if it's a Festival car, even though it is a cloth & t-top car. PHS will get a history request from me eventually... If I give out the VIN, is there a way to compute the build number from that?

Finance Comittee denied my request for a grand. I'm hoping to at least get the Translator and MAF done, though. The rest will wait until later.

 

[SouthBaySurfer]

Post the last 6 numbers of your VIN. You'll get enough replies to have an approximate idea of your build #.

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

ALKYCONTROL.com
can i be any more subtle :wink:
best bang for the buck

and a wideband kit to go with your Translator Gen II

of course this ASSuming you have: updated fuel pump, adjustable regulator, hotwire, GUAGES and all the other misc stuff you SHOULD always do before you start actually modifying "speed" parts

 

[cottonpicker14]

Heres a test pipe 3inch used.

eBay Motors: 3" test pipe for 89 TTA Buick GN (item 150090486854 end time Feb-14-07 15:15:00 PST)

 

[Lee_Burough]

yup I would follow that exactly but I would just run a manual boost controller instead of an adjustable waste gate (RJC sells a nice one) they're much easier to use.

My thought exactly....To use the manual boost controller, yoiu move the actuator to the stock setting anyway. If you have Alchy, you prolly wouldn't need the extra (race) chip either.

 

[DaJoker]

ALKYCONTROL.com
can i be any more subtle :wink:
best bang for the buck

and a wideband kit to go with your Translator Gen II

of course this ASSuming you have: updated fuel pump, adjustable regulator, hotwire, GUAGES and all the other misc stuff you SHOULD always do before you start actually modifying "speed" parts

Alky and a chip from Eric and you will have a BIG smile on your face.

 

[pvt num 11]

Post the last 6 numbers of your VIN. You'll get enough replies to have an approximate idea of your build #.

236789 - Had to ask the wife at home for it, I don't know why I couldn't remember THAT one...

Wife's going to look into seeing if we can budget the Translator & LS1 setup right away. At least that would make the car drivable again...

 

[SouthBaySurfer]

Build Number

My guess it that your # is somewhere around 200. I found a couple of of vins and build #'s on a recent thread; did some quick math on a scrap of paper, and came up with that guess. Members with vin numbers closer to your may help you narrow it down. If you want the exact number go to PHS.