200-R4 Tool set

[~JM~]

I have over-hauled & rebuilt several small engines & one big block V-8. I have the ability to dig into printed technical manuals, articles & perform extensive forum/internet research to extract the required information. Even so, locating a reliable & accurate high performance engine machinist is still the most difficult aspect of an engine build. There are plenty of machine shops that will treat your block like a small block Chevy.

 

[ttypewhite]

IMOP a girdle is only for holding broke stuff together and there to make you feel better ...when you put arp hardware in the bottom end ...it will need to be line honed with these new hardware to make sure its straight ...you will also need a decent amount of bearings to get clearances correct ..ETC...ETC...along with all the speciality tools required ... everything also depends of HP Goals and budget ... a lot of good advice has been posted GL in your goals ...

I respectfully disagree with your position on the girdle. Although I wouldn't suggest the girdle for the OP and his current mods and hp level, the girdle is a absolute brilliant concept for "keeping" stuff from breaking. From my experience, I have seen almost every scenario possible with these engines from a 14sec Buick to a 8 sec one. With the 109 that girdle stops the movement that will cause the crank to walk and create havoc. Extra insurance is not a bad thing. The benefits far exceed the value once you see engines that are properly tuned without it disassembled. This girdle combined with a forged rotating assembly has made it possible for guys to run well into the 9's and 8's with these motors. It isn't to make you feel good, it's there to help stop the movement and allow you to put more power to the motor and save the block and the main caps from coming apart. From bottom 10's and onward I wouldn't play that game without one.

 

[grass doctor]

I respectfully disagree with your position on the girdle. Although I wouldn't suggest the girdle for the OP and his current mods and hp level, the girdle is a absolute brilliant concept for "keeping" stuff from breaking. From my experience, I have seen almost every scenario possible with these engines from a 14sec Buick to a 8 sec one. With the 109 that girdle stops the movement that will cause the crank to walk and create havoc. Extra insurance is not a bad thing. The benefits far exceed the value once you see engines that are properly tuned without it disassembled. This girdle combined with a forged rotating assembly has made it possible for guys to run well into the 9's and 8's with these motors. It isn't to make you feel good, it's there to help stop the movement and allow you to put more power to the motor and save the block and the main caps from coming apart. From bottom 10's and onward I wouldn't play that game without one.

i respect your opinion sir ..thank you for your reply...i am still learning alot.....i do agree a girdle is not needed for the OP .. ...a girdle will do nothing for cap walk or strengthening the block ....especially at its weakest point ....the webbing .....but like you said properly tuned is the key...would you say there is no point in putting a girdle on with a stock crank?

 

[ttypewhite]

a girdle will do nothing for cap walk or strengthening the block ....especially at its weakest point ....the webbing .
would you say there is no point in putting a girdle on with a stock crank?

The whole design revolves around that principal. It was designed to tie all the main bearing caps and bulkheads together stiffening the lower end of the block and increasing crankshaft support. The crank is held in by 8 main bolts which are now tied in with the girdle, that is also tied into the block at every oil pan bolt hole. So how is it not preventing the cap from walking the same without one?
Stock cranks will snap due to it flexing. The girdle will aid in that movement, so yes it would be a great addition to guys that have stock cranks and rods to gain longevity based on their ability to tune it properly.

 

[grass doctor]

10/4...thx mike ..

 

[Rell87]

Hey everyone. So, a few months ago, I blew the rings on the motor. I guess 200k and a new turbo don't mix too well.

Anyways, with the current situation (and all opinions aside), I'm thinking about rebuilding the motor myself. I feel ok in pulling it out myself with the right tools, but have a couple questions:

- Any good suggestions on where to put the trans?
- Anything I should look at doing while the motor is out?
- Anything to be aware of when pulling the motor out or putting it back in?

Now, as for the motor, I'd like to take the opportunity to work it over a bit, but I still want it to pass CA emissions (without knowing a guy). So, nothing crazy and must run on 91 octane. Here are some things I'm thinking of:

- Roller cam
- Roller rockers
- Porting the heads and intake or upgrading said parts
- Girdle for the bottom-end
- Addressing any internal issues (i've heard oiling can be improved?)

I have already done some upgrades that I would like to re-use if possible:

- PTE 5558 SS bearing turbo
- 80 lb. flow-matched injectors from TurboTweak
- TH DP with cat
- RJC SS exhaust
- HR Parts 'N Stuff motor and trans mounts
- Kirban 3.5" aluminum DS

So, what are your thoughts? Favorite gaskets? Bolts or studs? Stroker maybe? Any other upgrades to think about?

Thanks as always!

Theres a local shop in San Leandro that a few of my boys with similar builds to what your looking for have went to, I kinda like his method... My car is a little further away at another shop towards Fairfield. Yes they're both open.

 

[TurboTGuy]

Where did you end up going, if anywhere?

The longer you wait....... the more reasons to NOT get it done will appear.

 

[michael evans]

One of the most important aspects of the car are the grounds. If the engine/car is all original the Stack of grounds on the back of the head by the transmission dipstick is a nightmare. Look at installing it different when you put it back together.
Slowly take the engine apart and inspect wear items.
The big places to look are the push rods and the oil pump cavity in the front cover.
Measure and then measure again everything.
Get a pad of paper and write it all down. Especially being your first time, you will not remember it all.