224cid BUICK V6 spooling a 91mm Turbo

Ok I can hear exactly what your doing with the timing in the video by the grunt of the engine. It sounds happy when you start doing the burnout and gets a bit grumpy as it goes , then in the staging process the motor is not real happy until after the 60' mark which is around where the timing is coming back on. My timing is locked with no retard ever!! It likes timing above 32 and will make giant gains with additional timing increases. Im wondering if the 15 degrees of timing is killing your 60' numbers? Are you spraying it with gas or methanol?? Mike:cool: BTW if you dont want this discussion on here I can back off!!
You know me, I don't mind at all. I'll give it all away if someone will listen.
During the burnout, the turbo maybe builds one psi of boost. The burnout is basically all motor. Plus, the dang water box guy can't get the clue that a destroked V6 on a 29.5 tire needs a little help from more water in the box. He also pulls me out of the water box too far.
The 15 degrees during the nitrous activation is a compromise that nets me the quickest boost rise and quickest 60 foot. I am burning nitrous with methanol. No gasoline anywhere on my car, except for the cold start priming tank. The 15 degrees allows me to burn the portion of the nitrous/methanol mixture, that doesn't burn in the cylinders, in the exhaust pipes. This has shown to be worth two tenths off the 60 foot.
I call it the 'nitrous/methanol drag turbo anti-lag system'.
A special nitrous/methanol ratio is also involved to end up with the right mixture ratio in the exhaust system.
 
Ok I can hear exactly what your doing with the timing in the video by the grunt of the engine. It sounds happy when you start doing the burnout and gets a bit grumpy as it goes , then in the staging process the motor is not real happy until after the 60' mark which is around where the timing is coming back on. My timing is locked with no retard ever!! It likes timing above 32 and will make giant gains with additional timing increases. Im wondering if the 15 degrees of timing is killing your 60' numbers? Are you spraying it with gas or methanol?? Mike:cool: BTW if you dont want this discussion on here I can back off!!
You're running more timing, but what a/f ratio are you running by the top end?
The average a/f ratio I'm running by the top end is 4.85:1. You don't need as much timing with a mixture like that. Less needed timing means less pumping losses.
And, get this Mike. The plugs have not begun to show any heat yet. :eek: That's right, boys. There's more in it.
 
You know me, I don't mind at all. I'll give it all away if someone will listen.
During the burnout, the turbo maybe builds one psi of boost. The burnout is basically all motor. Plus, the dang water box guy can't get the clue that a destroked V6 on a 29.5 tire needs a little help from more water in the box. He also pulls me out of the water box too far.
The 15 degrees during the nitrous activation is a compromise that nets me the quickest boost rise and quickest 60 foot. I am burning nitrous with methanol. No gasoline anywhere on my car, except for the cold start priming tank. The 15 degrees allows me to burn the portion of the nitrous/methanol mixture, that doesn't burn in the cylinders, in the exhaust pipes. This has shown to be worth two tenths off the 60 foot.
I call it the 'nitrous/methanol drag turbo anti-lag system'.
A special nitrous/methanol ratio is also involved to end up with the right mixture ratio in the exhaust system.

So assuming you have tried it already , what happens if you put more timing in it while on the Nos?? If your strickly on meth I cant see how it makes any power at 15 degrees timing and thats what it sounds like (down on power) but once it gets out past the 60' its much happier and you can hear the power difference. Does the Nos shut off by a timer or by a hobbs switch sensing boost?? Mike:cool:
 
You're running more timing, but what a/f ratio are you running by the top end?
The average a/f ratio I'm running by the top end is 4.85:1. You don't need as much timing with a mixture like that. Less needed timing means less pumping losses.
And, get this Mike. The plugs have not begun to show any heat yet. :eek: That's right, boys. There's more in it.

My AF will only read down to 4.02. It leaves the starting line at around 4.25 for about .5 of a second then the pump gets caught back up and it falls below what I can read. Rumor has it that I need to be in the low 3's on AF with my setup. I can tell you this for positive!! To make the power your looking for you need to be around 4.0 AF. Barry Kemper with the tubo v6 dragster was down to 3.7 to 3.8 before they quit. That was without an intercooler BTW.

I would not worry about the pumping losses , I would inject more fuel and figure out how to burn it!! The way I see it is simple , to beat on these big block cars I race against I just need to burn as much fuel as they do!! 200# weight break will take care of the rest. Mike:cool:
 
My AF will only read down to 4.02. It leaves the starting line at around 4.25 for about .5 of a second then the pump gets caught back up and it falls below what I can read. Rumor has it that I need to be in the low 3's on AF with my setup. I can tell you this for positive!! To make the power your looking for you need to be around 4.0 AF. Barry Kemper with the tubo v6 dragster was down to 3.7 to 3.8 before they quit. That was without an intercooler BTW.

I would not worry about the pumping losses , I would inject more fuel and figure out how to burn it!! The way I see it is simple , to beat on these big block cars I race against I just need to burn as much fuel as they do!! 200# weight break will take care of the rest. Mike:cool:
Not all that extra fuel you're dumping into the engine is making power, though. You're having to use that extra fuel for temperature control. It's your chemical intercooler.
I'm running an intercooler so I can trade off some of that fuel that I would normally have to use to keep combustion temps under control.
With the leaner mixture, flame speed is faster, so less timing required.
If I go any richer than 4.6:1, combustion temps drop to a point where my setup loses power.
 
Not all that extra fuel you're dumping into the engine is making power, though. You're having to use that extra fuel for temperature control. It's your chemical intercooler.
I'm running an intercooler so I can trade off some of that fuel that I would normally have to use to keep combustion temps under control.
With the leaner mixture, flame speed is faster, so less timing required.
If I go any richer than 4.6:1, combustion temps drop to a point where my setup loses power.

But if you added a bit more timing to that mixture you might make more power. Looking at it from the other direction and moving with your train of thought , then lean it out some more and take more timing out would free up rotational Hp!! But it would make less crankshaft HP!! Just giving a little food for thought here!! Mike:cool:
 
But if you added a bit more timing to that mixture you might make more power. Looking at it from the other direction and moving with your train of thought , then lean it out some more and take more timing out would free up rotational Hp!! But it would make less crankshaft HP!! Just giving a little food for thought here!! Mike:cool:
Yes, I see your point.
Believe me. Over the years I have played with the mixture all over the place. The timing I haven't. I figure that after I fix the crankcase pressure problem, I'll continue up with the boost level a little at a time, up to a few more pounds and if the plugs still show little heat, I'll start advancing the timing and start looking for signs of better performance and heat on the plugs. As I start seeing signs of heat, I'll try richening the mixture to see if anymore power is there. I definitely am not looking to go any leaner than I'm at now.
All the above testing will be dependent on whether traction becomes a problem or not.

It's really only been recently that I've been able to start stepping up the performance looking for the new tuning limits of the engine and chassis. I finally got the engine tune to a point where I could get the launch and the boost controller dialed in, and there was also the traction issue I went through until I figured out that I needed to go down, not up in tire pressure with the slicks to get the car to maintain traction and stay stable down the track. And now,... the crankcase pressure problem. The road blocks never end.
 
So assuming you have tried it already , what happens if you put more timing in it while on the Nos?? If your strickly on meth I cant see how it makes any power at 15 degrees timing and thats what it sounds like (down on power) but once it gets out past the 60' its much happier and you can hear the power difference. Does the Nos shut off by a timer or by a hobbs switch sensing boost?? Mike:cool:
Sorry Mike. I skipped right over this post. Didn't see it until I read the thread over again.

Yes, I've tried many different timing settings on the nitrous. The problem is this... The nitrous/methanol mix is so cold that you can only get away with a certain shot size. Any larger and the combustion temps are too cold to make additional power. The nitrous and methanol both actually quench the combustion temperatures as they dissociate in preparation for combustion.
There is a sweet spot with the shot size. I kept increasing the shot size until gains stopped, then backed off to the last shot size. The performance level of the shot size that I ended up with was clearly the best shot size judging by 60 foot times. That shot size limit per cylinder, for my engine setup turned out to be between 50 to 60 hp per cylinder. This is according to jet size rating. This is not the net hp produced in the cylinder, which is less due to the chilling affect of the mixture combination on the combustion process. I have come across another person that claimed 50 hp shot per cylinder was the limit he found, also.
I then played with different strategies of timing settings, spool valve operation, and then came the accidental discovery of the nitrous/methanol DT ALS while I was playing around with different timing settings for the nitrous in the garage. The nitrous with the spool valve was worth a tenth off the 60' using more timing on the nitrous. The nitrous/methanol DT ALS was worth two tenths without the spool valve in the picture. When I tried using the spool valve with the ALS, it was back to a one tenth gain. So now, I do not use the spool valve and only use the ALS.
The compromise with using the ALS is this... If I use more timing on the nitrous, it will produce more power,... in the cylinder, but it kills the ALS affect. Resulting boost rise is slow due to less exhaust heat generated.
By retarding the timing while on the nitrous, I make less power, in the cylinder, but increase exhaust temps and light off the portion of the nitrous/methanol mixture that made it past the cylinders unburned. The resulting boost rise is quicker, netting a quicker 60 foot. Since nitrous and methanol both contain their own oxygen supply, there's no need to drop cylinders like the gasoline fellas have to do to get their pop and bang deal. I end up with a smooth and consistent ignition in the exhaust system. You can't even tell it's happening. That's some of the roughness you hear in the exhaust tone during the first 60 feet of the pass. And, you're right. When the nitrous shuts down and the timing comes back in, the engine definitely likes it. But, the bottom line is this,... the ALS strategy nets the best 60' and that's what really counts, isn't it.

I use a timer to shut down the nitrous at 170-180 kPa in preparation for the 1-2 shift where I'm forced to control the boost to 14-15 psi for the shift. Then I let the boost start rising again halfway through the shift. So the boost is rising fast enough with this strategy that I actually have to level it off using a boost controller for the 1-2 shift to keep from overpowering the tires. I also use a pressure switch as a back up that will shut down the nitrous at 200 kPa.
 
How can I be so sure that I'm actually burning a mixture in the exhaust?

Whenever the ALS is active, the a/f ratio meter readout is 14.64:1!!! :eek:
My wideband is calibrated to readout gasoline numbers. I just translate in my head.
 
Mike, how did the head retention modification work out?

Well so far so good. Pretty much every full pass been low 4.30's to mid 4.20's. Last time out the air was mineshaft conditions and my first qualifing pass at a local quick 8 race netted the following. Note that it carried the front wheels and was drifting left out of the grove , had to lift and steer it back to the grove and leaned back on it. Motor was wounded on this pass and head gave up on the next pass. You will appreciate the attached info.
 

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Mike, how did the head retention modification work out?

More data and the culpret that failed. I would have loved to seen the ET if I could have made a full pull!! Head gasket were in perfect order!! Mike:cool:
 

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60 pounds of boost. Wow.
You would have set the track record here at Barona with that pass.
That should be an easy repair compared to losing a rod.
 
60 pounds of boost. Wow.
You would have set the track record here at Barona with that pass.
That should be an easy repair compared to losing a rod.

It was certainly on a very quick pass!! Yes it should be easy fix although I dont have the heads back yet. :rolleyes:

I dont leally have a clue what you need to do with the Nos , timing , etc. I do believe that maybe you need to look away from the 60' ET long enough to make more power in that area. The motor sounds real happy/good past the 60'. It could very well be that the car/chassis wont Et faster with more power with its current setup, but to go quicker you have to make more power in that area and then concetrate on how to get it to the ground. You say that the air temp with the n02 on is so low that it wont make any power!! Hillbilly thinking says maybe you need to increase the AF ratio and timing while its on. Cold air needs a lot more fuel to make power?? Sorry not much help but maybe Ill turn a light on!! Mike:cool:
 
It was certainly on a very quick pass!! Yes it should be easy fix although I dont have the heads back yet. :rolleyes:

I dont leally have a clue what you need to do with the Nos , timing , etc. I do believe that maybe you need to look away from the 60' ET long enough to make more power in that area. The motor sounds real happy/good past the 60'. It could very well be that the car/chassis wont Et faster with more power with its current setup, but to go quicker you have to make more power in that area and then concetrate on how to get it to the ground. You say that the air temp with the n02 on is so low that it wont make any power!! Hillbilly thinking says maybe you need to increase the AF ratio and timing while its on. Cold air needs a lot more fuel to make power?? Sorry not much help but maybe Ill turn a light on!! Mike:cool:
Well, the nitrous shot is already at the rich burn limit. That's how I get the right mixture to burn in the exhaust system.
The two easiest solutions would be a wide ratio gearset for the 400 to increase torque to the wheels for the launch and to get me through first gear and the 1-2 shift quicker, so that I could start ramping up the boost sooner in the run, or a tighter turbine housing so that I could build more boost to use along with the nitrous shot for the launch. What the nitrous shot can do for me is maxed out, unless I were to switch to pairing up the nitrous with gasoline, but that would mean having to add another fuel system to the car. I need to find the help somewhere else.
 
Here's a datalog graphing of one of the latest runs of the car.
You will notice where the MAP levels off for the 1-2 shift, even kept back a little for the 2-3 shift, and where the a/f ratio goes to 14.64:1 when the ALS becomes active.
The surprising thing about this datalog is how smooth the rpm througout the run is, even with all the busyness going on with the advance retard, the nitrous shut down, boost cut back, and the aux fueling system coming in at 175 kPa.
You can see where the a/f ratio goes bottom line rich just when the aux fueling system comes in. That's because the ECM presents a limit as to how far I can cut back the injectors when the aux fueling first comes in. Luckily, this limitation is right at the point where the boost rise and engine power are being pulled back for the 1-2 shift so it actually works out perfectly.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/2500163-post169.html
 
With the latest changes to the car, such as the new torque converter, tire pressure change, tuning and boost controller settings, the mph at the 1/8 mile mark has improved by almost 4 mph, in spite of the crankcase pressurization problem that I now need to solve.
I'm interested in seeing what the 1/4 mile change is going to be.
 
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